Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — from Kitlod settlement to Gezevcek settlement.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Sella, 4382 m, via the South ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B.
5. Route characteristics:      height difference — 450 m      average steepness — 55°      length — 530
6. Pitons hammered in: for belaying, for creating, etc.

and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints:

From the "Djangi-kosh" hut along the crest of the right-bank ("crescent-shaped") moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella Glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (Fig. 1) exit to the upper circus (cautious — closed crevices) and through it under the N wall of the Sella peak, 1 h 31 min. Through the bergschrund along the ice-snow slope to the left of the ice fall with piton belay in the direction to the summit (attention — do not deviate left, rockfall hazard from the rocks of the NE ridge counterfort). Along the steepness, the route has sections: 1 — ice slope (120 m, 45–50°) from the lower bergschrund to the ice edge of the ice fall. 2 — ice slope (40 m, 50–55°) in the ice fall zone. 3 — ice-snow slope (80 m, 45°) from the ice fall to the upper bergschrund. 4 — ice-snow slope (120 m, 45–30°) from the second bergschrund to the summit ridge. The difference of edges of the second bergschrund along the path is 1.5–2 m, in the absence of bridges traverse right for 20 m — here the difference is smaller. Depending on the ascent timing, the length of the snow sections of the wall is 120–150 m, belay — through ice axes. For ascent 8–12 h. Descent from the summit along the NE ridge to the saddle, then along the slope to the right onto the Bezengi Glacier and along it (attention — closed crevices, under the S slopes of the Varshava peak — rockfall hazard) to the hut 1.5–2 h. Hazardous places: on glaciers — closed crevices and rockfall hazard under the S slopes of the Varshava peak, on the N wall of the Sella peak — rockfall hazard when deviating left, on the NE ridge — possible cornices to the right. Special equipment: ice axes 8–12 pcs., crampons — for all.

Sella peak — Warszawa peak, traverse.

From the “Jangi-kosh” hut through the “serac” moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention — closed crevices and rockfall hazard from the S. slopes of Warszawa peak), bypassing the bases of the three S. spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashha-aus-bashi. From the hut 2 hours 30 minutes. Through the bergschrund and along the snowy slope to the saddle on the NE ridge of Sella peak, leading to Bashha-aus. From the saddle, left along the snowy ridge with cornices on the left. On the pre-summit section:

• cross the ridge

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Semenovsky Peak (4050 m) from the west via hanging glacier.
4. Route type — combined, sections determining the complexity category — ice.
5. Proposed complexity category — 2B category.
6. Route characteristics. Elevation gain — 1170 m, length 2325 m, length of sections 3–4 category — 875 m, average steepness of main difficulty sections 33° (2880–3680).
7. Pitons hammered: rock — 1, ice — 16.
8. Number of climbing hours — 10.
9. There were no overnight stays on the route.

ROCK peak via N ridge (via Kündüm-Mijirgi pass) Initial bivouac — on the SW spur of Panoramnyi peak (3900 m). Route:

• From the bivouac, cross the left tributary of the glacier and ascend the snowy-icy slope left of the icefall to the cirque of Kündüm-Mijirgi pass.
• Ascend to the ridge via the couloir right of the pass "gendarme" from the bivouac in 1.5–2 hours.
• Along the ridge of sharp slabs, directly to the first "gendarme", then along the ridge below the wall.
• Up and left along the wall for 7–8 m to a ledge (pitons), from it right and up via a crack to the pre-summit ridge.
• Along the ledges right of the ridge for 70–80 m to the summit.
• From the saddle in 1.5–2 hours. Descent: via the ascent route to the bivouac in about 2 hours.

39. Peak Tikhonov via North Face — Cat. 4A (L. Alekshashin, V. Koptev and Yu. Minin — August 14, 1959). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the Southern ridge of the Utug gendarme is described in route 18. Bivouac on the Southern ridge. From the bivouac:

• Descend to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall
• Cross the glacier to the right towards the North Face of Peak Tikhonov
• On the glacier (with crampons!), bypass the base of the northern rock walls of Peak Tikhonov on the left
• Move along the right side of a steep, wide snow-ice slope — a couloir descending from the saddle — the junction of the Eastern ridge of Peak Tikhonov and the Western ridge of Koshtantau peak
• Ascend 200 m up to the base of the rock wall
• Ascend 70 m up steep snow-covered difficult rocks of the wall — to the right (pitched climbing!) to reach the left counterfort

55. Tyutyunta peak from the south - category 4A. difficult see description 43 for the path from the Bezengi alp camp. On the flat areas near the narzan springs - bivouac. From the overnight stays:

• upwards - left along the scree and moraine,
• then upwards along the snowy couloir to the fifth saddle between the Tyutyunta peak and its third sentinel of the South ridge. From the saddle:
• a 40-meter descent to the east along rocks of medium difficulty and a snowy slope to the

3. Uky via the Southeast Ridge, 2A.

From the “Ukyu-kosh” hut, ascend via the trail to the “golubyatnya” FAP shelter and reach the M. Ukyu glacier. Traverse the right side to bypass the steep rise of the glacier under the base of Ukyu's South ridge, then proceed along the middle of the glacier towards the Ukyu col. 250 m before the col (1.5–2 hours from the “golubyatnya”), move from the glacier leftward onto the talus under the base of the Southeastern ridge's rocky massif that descends towards the col. Along the boundary between the rocks (on the right) and the wide talus couloir, ascend to the talus “shoulder” of Ukyu's Southeast ridge — 1–1.5 hours from the glacier. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous protection via outcrops and pitons, the “jandarms” are passed directly. The pre-summit rise of the ridge is overcome via the wall left of the ridge: from the talus saddle (possibly snowy), traverse left along a ledge for 30 m, then up and right via a wide rock chimney, exiting it leftward through a cleft with a plug, then via moss-covered blocks onto the ridge — protection via outcrops. In other variations of ascending the rise, piton protection is used. The gentle pre-summit section is passed simultaneously along the ridge line. 2–2.5 hours from reaching the ridge. Descent follows the ascent route down to the “golubyatnya”, taking 1.5–2 hours. Special equipment: 5–6 rock pitons or chocks.

Ukyu by the left edge of the W wall of the S ridge, 3B.

From the KSP "Golubiatnia" shelter, head to the glacier and along its left edge approach the left corner of the W. wall of the S. ridge of Ukyu. From the glacier, ascend the slope of the right-bank moraine to the left, and behind its ridge, through the gully between the gray (left) and black scree, reach the cape of the left edge. Another option: from "Golubiatnia" ascend the slope to the moraine ridge and then along the ridge approach the route. From "Golubiatnia" — 0.5 hours. Ascend the couloir to the left or right of the edge ridge for 20–80 m, then reach the edge ridge and continue with simultaneous protection via ledges and rock pitons to the control cairn on a wide terrace; from the start — 1 hour. To bypass the overhanging rocks on the left, ascend the rock wall for 120–150 m with good holds in the general direction under the "gendarme" that has the shape of a finger against the sky background. Depending on the conditions, 15–25 protection points may be required in this section (pitons, chocks, slings). After reaching the ridge: the key location is the sharp "gendarme," initially passed head-on, then along the ridge. Continue along the edge and the 3 slope to reach the gentle S. ridge and along it (cautiously — overhanging cornices are possible to the right) to the summit. From the start of the route — 6–8 hours. Descent along the SE ridge as described in 3 — to "Golubiatnia" — 1.5–2 hours. Hazardous areas: on the 3 slopes of the S. ridge — rockfall hazard (a lengthy detour of the lower part of the route is unacceptable), and overhanging cornices are possible on the pre-summit section of the S ridge to the right. Special equipment: rock pitons and chock stones — 12–15 pcs., working carabiners — 10–12 pcs., slings made of main rope — 2 pcs. (for extenders and protection on ledges).