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Route Description: с пер. Квиш
Description of the 1B category of complexity route to Ledesh peak via the Southern ridge from Nakra village indicating the path of approach and ascent to the summit.
316. Lederisht via the South Ridge (the route is combined, category of difficulty 1B, fig. 32,
43). From the Nakra village cross the eponymous river and ascend the trail on the right
side of the gorge until the third, large stream of the Lederisht River flowing from the
right slope of the gorge. From Nkra village 3–4 hours. Here, turn right and follow the
trail on the right bank of Lederisht, then Leyarag, further along the right-bank moraine
to the site at its end. From the moraine, on the right side of the Leyarag glacier (ice
seracs, avalanches, falling stones), reach the upper snow plateau. From the plateau, via
moderately difficult rocks (gullies) of the counterfort or further left, via a steep
ice-snow slope, bypass the icefall descending from the Kvish Pass and above it, on the
Route Description: С гребню с пер. Орджоникидзе
Ascent to Leiragr peak via the Western ridge, a combined route of 3A category of difficulty, 10-13 hours from Nakra village.
- Leiraq via the West Ridge (combined route, T. Suprunova, category 3A complexity, fig. 32, 43). On the right side of the Leiraq Glacier (milestone 316) ascend along the northern slopes of the Unnamed Peak to the saddle in the West Ridge of Leiraq peak — the Alpinist Pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, to the left, along the scree and easy rocks to the Alpinist Pass. Bivouac. 5–7 hours from the village of Nakra. At the pass, turn left and reach the West Ridge rocks of Leiraq peak. Follow the straightforward 200-meter West Ridge, overcoming three small gendarmes directly (with protection), to reach a plateau with a small lake. From the lake, ascend a 30–40-meter wall of moderate difficulty (using pitons) to a plateau. Then, traverse 30–40 meters of steep rocks of moderate difficulty («unstable rocks», with protection); subsequently, follow the straightforward rocky, partially snow-covered (with cornices) West Ridge with an ice pitch to reach the summit of Leiraq. 5–6 hours from the Alpinist Pass.
Route Description: З стене
First ascent via the center of the Western wall of Kjukjurtljü peak (4639 m) in Caucasus, rated 6B category complexity.
Ascent Passport
- Area 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperazau Pass to Gumači peak, Ullukhurzuk gorge, southwestern spur of Mt. Elbrus.
- Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi) 4639 m, via the center of the Western wall.
- Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 590 m, route length: 800 m, wall height: 470 m, wall section length: 515 m, section lengths by category: I - 150 m, II - 60 m, III - 70 m, IV - 80 m, V - 145 m (95 m on artificial anchors), VI - 390 m (all on artificial anchors); total artificial anchors: 390 m, difficulty: A1 - 35 m, A2 - 265 m, A3 - 90 m, average wall slope: 83°, overall route slope: 65°.
- Anchors left on the route:
total — 48
including:
- rock anchors — 14
Route Description: правой части центра З стены
Report on the first ascent of a Category 6B route on the right part of the central section of the West Face of Kyukyurtlyu-Kolbashi Peak (4639 m) in the Central Caucasus.
- Central Caucasus; Ullukhurzuk gorge; section according to the classification table "from Chiperazaau pass to Gumači summit"
- Name of the peak: Kyukyurtlyu-Kolbashi (4639 m), name of the route: via the right part of the center of the West Face
- Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Nature of the route: combined
- Height difference of the route: 890 m (by altimeter); including the wall section: 580 m.
Route length: 1330 m. Length of sections:
- V category of difficulty – 100 m.
- VI category of difficulty – 605 m. Average steepness:
Route Description: центру З стены
Ascent via 6B category route through the NW wall center to the summit of Kjukjurtljü (4639 m) in Caucasus in 1999 by a team of Moscow mountaineers.
Kukurtli to the center of the NW wall, T. Lukashvili's route, 1981 Caucasus 2.4.107 (110)
Passport
- Technical class.
- Caucasus. Elbrus Southwest shoulder.
- Kukurtli via the center of the NW wall, 4639 m.
- Assumed to be 6B category of difficulty (6th ascent).
- Height difference: 780 m, of which 450 m is wall section, length - 1350 m. Section lengths: 5 category of difficulty - 305 m, of which 40 m on artificial terrain (AID).
Route Description: центру З стены
Description of a category 6B climb on the peak Kykhyurtlyu via the west wall, ascended in 1993 by a team of Russian mountaineers.
Passport
- Technical category.
- Central Caucasus, Kykkyurtlyu gorge.
- Kykkyurtlyu peak, center of NW wall — 4623 m.
- 6B category route, Lukashvili 1981.
- Height difference — 860 m, wall section height difference — 580 m, wall section length — 640 m, average steepness of wall section — 87°.
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: центру З стены
Description of the route through the center of the western wall of Kjukjurtljú peak (4639 m), climbed by the team as part of the 1982 USSR championship, with detailed characteristics and challenges.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category
- technical
- Ascent area
- Caucasus, from Chipperazau pass to Kitlod pass
- Peak
- Kyukyurtlyu 4639 m, center of the western wall
- Proposed category difficulty
- 6B
- Route characteristics
Route Description: центру З стены
Climbing certificate for Kjukjurtliu peak (4639 m) via T. Lukashvili route, 1981, center of NW wall, category 6B difficulty level.
Ascent Passport
- Technical climbing category.
- Region 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperezau pass to Gumači peak, Elbrus southwest spur.
- Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi), 4639 m, point 107, T. Lukashvili route 1981, via the center of the NW wall.
- Rock route.
- 6B category of difficulty, seventh ascent.
- Route characteristics:
- Route elevation gain — 590 m,
- Route length — 845 m,
- Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m,
Route Description: центру З стены
Ascent description for Kuyurtlu peak (4623 m) via the center of the west wall, rated 6B difficulty category, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1981.
Ascent Log
- Ascent classification — technical
- Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Elbrus region
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Kjukjurtlu, 4623 m, center of the west wall
- Anticipated difficulty category — 6B category difficulty
- Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1020 m. b) length of sections: 5 — 120 m, 6 — 425 m, A-II — 8 m, mixed (У–VI, А+е) — 235 m. c) average steepness — 87°
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: 3 стене
Ascent to the summit of Kjukjurtlu via the western wall, route description, details of the trip, and technical characteristics.