Report

on the first ascent to Peak 7490 m (Peak N. Ostrovsky) via the West Ridge, made by the combined team of the Ukrainian SSR Sports Committee, led by S.I. Bershov, consisting of:

• G.I. Vasilenko
• V.G. Boyko
• V.P. Gordeev
• S.K. Sentsov
• V. Rekoslavsky
• P.F. Slavinsky
• A.N. Tolstousov Between June 8 and June 13, 1979.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical climb
2. Ascent area: North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 5490 m via the North-Eastern ridge, first ascent
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 2290 m
   • Average steepness: 55° (from the saddle between Peak 4050 m and the NE ridge of Peak 5490 m)
   • Length of sections:
     • I–II difficulty category – 2600 m

Passport

I. Altitude-Technical Class

2. Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
4. Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
7. Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7

Passport

First ascent made in 1975

1. Climbing category — traverse
2. Climbing area — North-West Pamir
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Traverse of the three peaks of Oshanina (6305 m, 6380 m, 6300 m) from Turamys Glacier.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2450 m. Average steepness 50°. Length of the difficult section 1700 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock 133 ice 76

Report

on the traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Petra I ridge: Zapadny Oshanina (6305) — Centralny Oshanina (6390) — Vostochny Oshanina (6310) — 30 let Sovetskogo Gosudarstva (6447) — Moskva (6785) with ascent to Zapadny Oshanina peak from the Shini-Bini saddle via the northern ridge (first ascent) Team of Moscow City Council "Burevestnik" Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports V. Khomutov. Team coach: Master of Sports Yu. Borodkin.

Route Characteristics

Peaks included in the traverse:

PETRA I RIDGE — NORTH-WESTERN PAMIR

Report

ON TRAVERSE OF PIK GERoEV MALoY ZEMLI PEAK (5462 m) — PIK SEVERCEVA (5120 m) (FIRST ASCENT)

Report on Ascent to Pik Suloeva (5816 m) via the West Ridge

First ascent, approximately 4A category of difficulty (Protocol No. 313, 3A). Leader – Zaseckij V. G.

Fortambek Glacier Basin

The summit of Pik Suloeva (5816 m) is located in the eastern branch of the northern spur of the Peter I Range, branching off from Pik Moskva. The ascent to the summit was undertaken for acclimatization purposes, and therefore it was decided to climb the peak via the easiest route, which, after studying images of the summit from different sides, was assumed to lead to the summit from the Western cirque. The ascent was planned and prepared in Moscow. On July 17, 1969, at 6:00, the group consisting of Zaseckij, Grebenschikov, Bozhukov, Nadbah, Nevvorotin, and Poroshin departed from the base camp located in a pocket of the left-bank moraine of the Fortambek Glacier (see diagram). 3 hours of walking along the moraine with a marked path, and another 1 hour ascent along the lateral moraine of the unnamed glacier, and then along the glacier itself – exit into the cirque formed by the southern and western ridges of the summit. Here, on the median moraine, they prepared a site and set up a tent. After resting and having lunch at 16:00, when the daytime heat had subsided, Bozhukov, Grebenschikov, and Nadbah went on a reconnaissance sortie to the upper reaches of the "Novator" glacier, as the unnamed glacier was decided to be named. After 2 hours, they returned and reported that:

• There is, apparently, a good exit to the West Ridge beyond the glacier's bend;
• There is also an interesting path to the summit along the counterfort of the West Wall.

Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club

Ascent of Peak Suloev via the South Face, 5816 m (first ascent)

Leader: V.M. Nadbakh-Kiedessa Participants:

• I.V. Grebenshchikov
• V.K. Nevorotin Moscow, 1969 The participants of this group are part of the team from the Central Council of the Burevestnik Sports Club, formed in the spring of 1969 to undertake high-altitude and technically challenging ascents. In the summer of 1968, as part of the 2nd complex expedition of the Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club, the participants of this group ascended Peak Lenin.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir range, spurs of the Petra Pervogo range
3. Peak, its height — p. 5493 m., from SW via rock aiguilles, ascent route first ascent, named peak 1500 years of Kiev
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference length of sections 5–6 cat. length of sections 3–4 cat.

1. Class of ascent — high-altitude technical
2. Region of ascent — Pamir, Zaalaysky Ridge
3. Object of ascent — Peak Tsyurupa 5842 m, first ascent via the northern edge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A
5. Route characteristics: | | | | :--------------- | :---------- | | height difference | 2000 m | | average steepness | 35–40° | length of sections: