Climbing area map Route diagram in UIAA notation, sect. R0–R15:

• R0: 70°, 20 m, 4
• R1: 75°, 40 m, 4
• R2: 70°, 60 m, 4
• R3: 75°, 40 m, 5
• R4: 85°, 10 m, 5, 6
• R5: 70°, 100 m, 4

The ascent from the base camp, located on the right bank of the Kara-su River, goes along the main slope towards the rock ridge to the left of the North Peak 3800. The approach to the start of the route (the foot of the West Wall of the peak) takes 1.5 hours.

Brief description of the route sections

Section R0–R1. Talus-filled couloir leading to the buttress. Bypass the twin pinnacle on the right. 150 m, 35°. Section R1–R2. Along the damaged rocky buttress, exit to the North Ridge to the right of the ridge. 200 m, 40°–50°, diff. cat. II. Section R2–R3. The destroyed rocky ridge leads to the North Peak.

Technical photo of the route General view of the route Passing the cornice on the section R0–R1 Section R2–R3

M 1:50 000

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Karatash via SE couloir of NE ridge.
4. Proposed category 3B (the route has been climbed multiple times during the operation of the Akturu sports camp).
5. Elevation difference 680 m, length 1720 m.
6. 1 ice screw and 14 stoppers were used.
7. 12 travel hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Vinnikov E.N., 1st sports category.

Edelweiss Pass Route

Eastern Ridge Route, Category 1B difficulty

Traverse of Khabarovsk Climbers Peak

Descent from the Routes

Via the Eastern Counterfort, Category 1B difficulty. From the camp to the start of the route takes 20–25 minutes.

Тraverse В. KOMSOMOLA — В. 20 LET SSO 2B. section 0–1: Wide rocky ridge, heavily destroyed ridge — exit to В. Kom­so­mo­la. section 1–2: Snowy slope leads to the saddle between В. Kom­so­mo­la and В. 20 Let SSO. section 2–3: Pre-summit rocky ridge. Heavily destroyed in the lower part. In the middle part of the ridge:

• a "жандарм" (bypassed on the right)
• followed by a rocky couloir (60 m, steep rocky wall). After the couloir:
• a narrow rocky saddle,
• a narrow rocky ridge, ending with an internal corner. Along the internal corner — to the rocky ridge. After 60 m — the summit.

Ai-Petri (western summit). 4A cat.

The route goes to the left of the main couloir separating the western summit from the central massif. Along the inner corner formed by two ledges on the wall, traverse right under an overhanging rock, bypassing it along a narrow vertical slit. After that, inclined platforms begin. The further path diverges:

• The first one goes up steep rocks along the right edge of a narrow couloir turning into a chimney.
• The second one goes along the wall and traverses left into the couloir. Then go another 25 m to a chimney, then to a pine tree, and then another 40 m to the second pine tree on the right. Here, on the saddle, there's a control cairn. From here, go right to a small chimney with a dry pine tree, and then, bypassing a large rock on the left, ascend to a platform and from it to a pine tree,

Cherep. 1B.

Follow the trail to the clearing with former mountaineering campsites (scattered with large stones). From the clearing, follow a faint trail towards the rocky scree. From the stones near the river, a rusty, crumbling wall is visible; move in its direction with no clear trail. Approach the rusty, crumbling wall (there's no need to climb into the couloir above it) and move right along it for 30–40 m. A vegetation-filled couloir will appear on the left:

• Put on your harnesses and gear before entering the couloir.
• Move up the couloir through easy rock climbing, with some loose rocks.
• After about 30–40 m, set up station R0 on one of the trees, preferably the left juniper. From R0, you'll see a smoothed wall on the right; R1 is located on a convenient ledge above it. To get to R1 from R0, continue up the couloir onto a crumbling ledge towards a sturdy juniper, marked "М" on the diagram (not to the last tree on the ledge, as some descriptions suggest). From the juniper, move right and you'll see the path to the next trees in the direction of the crumbling rusty corner. Belay from the juniper, lengthen the quickdraw significantly, and move up to the right. Avoid climbing into the rusty, crumbling corner; instead, belay in a crack on the left wall, make a 1 m traverse to the right, and then move up to the ledge with trees. The station is on two new bolted anchors. The rope is rockfall-prone; be cautious. For larger groups, consider setting up an intermediate station on the juniper to avoid being hit by rocks. Climbing grade: 2–3.

Ka­la­nykh-Ka­ya. 1. "Ob­lom" Massif: Ka­la­nykh-Ka­ya (623 m) Map: Difficulty: 1B Author: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Tse­ma E. Time to complete: 1–3 hours Route description:

• From the "Myth" restaurant parking lot, go right — up the asphalt road to a large clearing
• Across the clearing, up at 11 o'clock in the direction of the mountain
• Approach via terraces overgrown with forest, no clear trail R1–R2: 60 m, I–n/k