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Description of the route to the summit of Pelychap from the west, complexity category I.6B.
ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF PELYCHACHAP from the west — I.6Б.
Route Description: ЮВ стене
Description of a new route, category 5B, on the Southeast wall of Trapezia Glavnaya peak in Caucasus, first ascended by Alexander Kolchin and Denis Veiko in 2001.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. Section number in the 1999 classification table - 2.3
- Trapezia Main via SE wall (3743 m).
- Proposed 5B category of difficulty. First ascent.
- Route character - rock.
- Height difference: from the assault bivouac to the summit: 580 m wall section: 350 m.
- Length wall section: 430 m.
Route Description: СЗ ребру
Ascent to the summit Filtr via the northwestern ridge, category of complexity 1B, with a description of the path and key sections of the route.
- Ascent to the summit of Filtr via the northwestern edge Cat. 3B See the path to the bivouac in the description of the Cat. 2B route From the bivouac:
- along the stream on the right-upwards, under the rocks of the NW edge of Filtr peak;
- traverse the snowfield to the right-upwards and then along the slabs and "ram's foreheads" to the gorge (in rope teams!);
- from the gorge, exit to the snowy slope (35–40°) and along it to the rocky outcrop and beyond it along the snowy exit to the ridge. From here:
- left-upwards 330–350 m to the snowy couloir;
- bypass the couloir to the right-upwards via the rocks to a large slab (protection! Hook!);
Route Description: С кф.
Ascent to the summit of Chat-bashi Western via the northern counterfort, a 3A category rock climbing route, the ascent takes 7-8 hours.
M93. Chat-Bashi Western peak via the northern spur
(rock route, category 3A, first ascent by P. Zakharov, 1960) From Chat bivouac, head left towards the talus slopes of Chat-Bashi peak. From here, traverse diagonally up and to the right at an angle of 35-40° to reach the western ridge of the peak. If you ascend too high along the ridge, the descent into the cirque of Chat pass will be challenging, involving rappelling down steep walls and rock fractures. After descending to the cirque via simple slopes, ascend to the pass via snowy and talus slopes. From the pass, descend to its eastern side and approach the base of the northern spur via a snowy slope - it's the right-hand spur relative to the large couloir that runs from the summit ridge down to the pass. Then, ascend leftwards via ledges and short walls to reach the shoulder of the spur. From the shoulder, follow the ridge, tackling an 80-meter wall (R2, bypass on the left side), a rocky "saw" (R4, ascend directly), and then ascend via rocks to the left of the ridge and a difficult 7-meter wall to reach the main ridge of the spur. Continue along the ridge to a grey inclined slab (R7). Ascend via a crack that leads to a small depression, and from there back onto the ridge. If the slab is icy or covered in snow, ascend to the depression from the base of the right edge of the slab via a section of overhanging rock (tense climbing). Follow the degraded 200-meter rocky ridge to reach the Western peak. The ascent from bivouac takes 7-8 hours. Descend from the peak via talus slopes in the direction of Chat campsite. The descent from the peak to bivouac takes 2 hours.
- initial bivouac - Chat campsite, departure time - no later than 5:00 AM;
- avoid entering the couloir to the left of the route - rockfall and avalanches!
- the route is generally safe from rockfall, except for the lower section before reaching the ridge;
Route Description: С ребру
Description of the ascent route to Chupgur-Legar peak (3668 m) via the northern edge, 3-5 category of difficulty, in the Western Caucasus.
PASSPORT
ASCENTS
- Class of ascent
- rock
- Area of ascent
- West Caucasus, Uzunkol region.
- Route of ascent
- peak CHUNGUR-LZHAR 3668 m. North edge 3B cat. diff.
- Characteristics of ascent:
- height difference of the route — 700 m.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Report on the ascent of the FANO team to Pik Shokoladny (3650 m) via the southwestern wall along Raymond Despotes' route, category 5B complexity.
Russian Mountaineering Championship High-Altitude Technical Class
Ascent Report
To Shokoladny Peak (3650 m) via the Southwest Wall (R. Despie, 1975) 5B category, Rocky. Team FANO
- Team Coach: Nikonov A.E. (1st sports category)
- Leader: Shurygin S.D. (1st sports category)
- Participants: Koroleva E.I. (1st sports category), Ryndyk A.P. (1st sports category)
Ascent Passport
- Region, gorge, section number according to the 2001 classification table:
Route Description: «зеркалам» ЮЗ стены
Climbing report on traversing a Category III (6A) route to Shokoladny Peak via "mirrors" on the Southwest wall.
Report
on the ascent route to Shokoladny peak (3650 m) via the "mirrors" of the Southwest wall (6A cat. difficulty), made by the team of .......... alpinism federation Leader: ANDREEV A.B., CMS. Coach: DMIITRIENKO E. 2020
Ascent Passport
- Russia, Caucasus.
Route Description: Ю гребню с пер Южный
Report on the first ascent to the Panoramny peak via the South Ridge, category 2A difficulty, including route description and recommendations for climbers.
Report on the First Ascent to Panoramny (Panorama) Peak via the Route from Yuzhny Panoramny Pass along the Southern Ridge, Category 2A, by the Team of the Stavropol Regional Alpinism Federation
July 11, 2021
I. Climbing Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Iver Evgeny Vasilyevich, Candidate Master of Sports, 3rd Category Instructor (cert. №898) |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Kireev Evgeny Timofeevich, 1st Sports Rank, 3rd Category Instructor (cert. №2037); Shchegoleva Alena Igorevna, III rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Enin Vladimir Ilyich |
| 1.4 | Organization | Stavropol Regional Alpinism Federation |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: З гребню
Account of the first ascent to the North summit of Dolomite (7710 m) via the western ridge, a route rated as category 36 difficulty, achieved in 1980.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Caucasus, Gvandra district, Kichkinekol gorge
- Peak, its height, ascent route: S. Dolomit, 3710 m, via the Western ridge
- Proposed difficulty category: approximately 3B cat. diff.
- Route characteristics:
- Height difference: 700 m
- Average steepness: 35°
- Length of section with 3B cat. diff.: 250 m
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. 3 гребня
Ascent to the summit of Jadlyk (4533 m) via Shto-West counterfort of the Western ridge, first ascent, category 4 difficulty, in 28 hours of climbing.
I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4