Report on the First Ascent of the Traverse v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge

Approximate difficulty: 3B category. Completed by the "Ushba" Climbing Club team on August 8, 2010, under the leadership of Dmitry Anatolyevich Lyublinsky. Address: Russia, Saratov, Khimicheskaya St., 7, apt. 154, phone: (8452) 911 633, +7 927 109 21 10

Climbing Report

1. Type of ascent: Combined
2. Region: Caucasus: Sofiya Valley
3. Peak, route: v. 3150 (Kel) — v. 3200 — v. 3243 (Kelbashi) via the E Wall and E Ridge
4. Anticipated difficulty: 3B, category: first ascent
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — approximately 270 m, route length — approximately 1615 m,

Peaks:

• Orlenok Eastern (3140.0)
• 3010.0
• 3000.0
• 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) Route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks (3140.0 – 3010.0 – 3000.0 – 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast)" Category — 2B (combined). Leader: V. Babkin. Western Caucasus, Orlenok gully, Karadzhash ridge. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the alpinist route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks — 2900, 3000, 3010 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast" 2B category (combined), made on the annual alpinist event "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pa' 2012" (class "First ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Orlenok gully. Ridge: Karadzhash mountain massif. Peaks:

Peak 2900–3000–3010 "Severnye Zubki" Route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" Cat. difficulty 2B (combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Kara-Jash ridge Section in KMGV - 2.1 E-mail: ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" 2B cat. difficulty (combined) at the year-round alpine event Championship and primacy of NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" 2011 (class "First Ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic

Description

First ascent to v. Sofia via the western ridge, approximately category 3A. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the Sofia River (orographically) until the confluence with the Ak-Airy River. Then, move left and upwards along the left (orographically) bank of the Ak-Airy River to the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour of movement. The belt of "ram's foreheads" is bypassed from the right along a small stream. Then, move left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. After the meadows, move along the middle talus to the shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy River valley. Here, there is a green, flat clearing with a stream of clear water nearby. A suitable location for the initial bivouac. From the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour. From the initial bivouac, move upwards along the Ak-Airy River across talus to the Ak-Airy glacier. The glacier ends in an icefall, which is bypassed from the right across a rocky outcrop. Then, ascend a snowy slope with a steepness of 35-40° - 150-200 m upwards, exiting onto the glacier. From the initial bivouac to the glacier exit - 1 hour of movement.

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category: Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Awadkhara region. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Mt. Kardyvach Main, 3150 m, via the center of the South face. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B (winter). 5. Route characteristics:

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;

151. Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 20, 23). On the saddle (point 150) turn left and ascend via an easy gentle, in places sharp (belay required), with short simple walls, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices) 300–400-meter rocky Eastern ridge to the summit of Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu. From the Ly­chad­skie plo­schad­ki 3–4 hours.

Vils

The Vils peak (3861 m) is located in the northeastern part of the Kalper ridge, between Shulgina peak and Passionaria summit. Above the Skazdona valley, Vils rises with steep rocky slopes and walls. In the Hissar gorge, a simple South ridge descends from the peak, separating the Vils glacier to the east from Passionaria to the west. Under the southwestern slopes of Vils lies a small hanging glacier, Western Passionaria. The following ridges have no routes to the peak yet:

• North ridge
• Southwest ridge

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: 2.7 3. Summit: Malaya Songuti 3800 m via Central Counterfort of the North Face 4. Proposed Difficulty Category: 4A 5. Route Nature: Height difference 500 m, average steepness 70–75°. Section length: II – 60 m, III – 260 m, IV – 290 m, V – 25 m 6. Pitons driven: For belay: Rock — 16 Boulder — 0

119. SONGUTI-ULARG, TRAVERSE

(combined route) category III The path from the "Torpedo" camp goes along the trail along the Tsey-Don River to the Uilpata River, where it is necessary to turn upwards (to the right). By the stream flowing down the "sheep's foreheads" from the Uilpatinsky Glacier (C-3), the path turns towards this glacier, ascending to the right end of the glacier. When ascending, one should beware of rockfall. The glacier should be ascended in the middle, heading towards the overhanging wall of the icefall. The wall is the edge of the firn plateau that feeds the Uilpatinsky Glacier and the nameless glacier sliding down to the northern branch of the Tsey Glacier. Both these glaciers are divided by the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. From this icefall - the serac - one should bypass it from the left (in the direction of travel), ascending along the avalanche deposits, cross the bergschrund, and exit onto the scree, ascending along it to the ridge of the western end of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata. When ascending to the ridge, beware of rockfall. From the ridge of the eastern shoulder of Uilpata, cross over to the firn plateau and head in the direction of the Sonquti ridge, towards the 10-3 ridge. When ascending to the ridge, one should keep to the direction of the second (counting from Uilpata) "gendarme" along the firn and partly icy slope. Initially, overcome a small bergschrund and approach the rocks along the slope, ascending through the couloirs, and exit onto the 10-3 ridge of Sonquti. When ascending, it is necessary to beware of avalanches and rockfall. On the ridge near the "gendarme", a bivouac can be organized. Further, the path goes along the 10-3 ridge to the Sonquti summit. On the ridge, there are two more "gendarmes":

• the first is small and can be passed easily;