Sokol — 46

Via the bastion in the eastern part of the southern wall, 1B cat. diff.[№5]

(A. Brynza — S. Brynza, 1994) R0–R2: 60–80 m, 4 hours. Up to the left along an oblique crack to a tree, then along a ledge to an internal corner and up it to the left — exit to the middle of the bastion. Stations on trees. R2–R4: 70–80 m. Simple climbing to the left and up towards the ridge.

• Station R3 on a tree
• Station R4 on the ridge (on a bridge between the ridge and the wall) R4–R5: 35 m. Simple climbing, first 10 m up and to the right to a crack, and then 25 m to the right and up to a tree. R5–R6: 20 m. Traverse 10 m along a ledge to the right to a dry tree, and then up to the left along a crack — exit to a plateau. Station on the plateau.

Recommended equipment:

Sokol Mountain "Present set" marush (big walk) 2A

Author: Gennady Ivanov In June 2012, my wife Anna and I visited Sudak and climbed Sokol Mountain via the "Present set" marush, rated 2A-2B. Marush is simpler than Vilka or PK in Foros. So, most likely, its category is 2A. My comments on the description (in italics) R0–R1 35 m: 5c+

• Belay is organized using trees and, if necessary, personal anchors.
• Station is on a bolt and a tree, on a small ledge. The length of the section is 45 m; the first bolt is encountered at 35 m, but the station is 10 m higher. R1–R2: 25 m, 5b — simple climbing with easy belay organization using trees and personal anchors if needed.

Sokol - 52

Muchacha * 2B cat. diff.[№2]

(A. Kuzmitsky ­ — E. Khvorost, November 2005) R0­–R1: 50 m, 5B. The start coincides with the right double, then left to the inner corner with a crack, belay is easily organized on the entire rope, be careful when passing the oblique crack (15 m) ­ — destroyed edge. Station on the upper juniper bush on a comfortable ledge + own elements. R1­–­R2: 50 ­m, 5 ­c. First up, along a vaguely expressed crack, then along the slab up to the right on a bush (pa­ral­le­lo­gram to the double on the right), 3­–­4 ­m before the bush — bolted piton, from it up 8­–­9 ­m to the station under an oblique hanging block. Station on bolted piton + small nuts. R2­–­R3: 50 ­m, 5 ­c. First up the slab to a tree, and then a beautiful long

Crimea, Sokol Mt. "Sestry Zaytsevy" Route, 2B

The "Sestry Zaytsevy" route (2B) is located in the near sector of Sokol Mt. In summer, this sector is in the shade around 3:00 PM. It was interesting to climb through the crack that goes through the first bastion. The approaches to the route, like most routes in the near sector, start from the "3rd kilometer" sign. You pass by the start of:

• "1" route,
• "Menuet",
• "hAachu" and go further. The crack is clearly visible from both the road and the start. First ascent: Vlad Chumachenko and Alexander Gorbatyuk (August 22, 2007) Sudak, Sokol Mt. The original thread of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" 2B route

Later, the thread of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" route was corrected:

So­kol-51

Chico * 3А complexity cat.[№4]

(S. Na­dto­chiy — E. Gay­nu­lov, November 2005) R0–R1: 50 m, 5c+. Belay is organized easily:

• large friends facilitate belay organization,
• don’t forget to lengthen quick draws at the turn. Belay station is on a convenient ledge on a big tree. R1–R2: 20 m, 4b+. Belaying is still necessary. Station coincides with Muchacha’s R1 station R2–R3: 50–55 m, 6a. Two thirds of the rope — there is protection, then 9–10 meters

Sokol (Crimea) — "Amazonka" 5A

Sokol mountain. Crimea A new route has been passed on Sokol mountain in Crimea. Participants of the ascent:

• Maxim Kuralesov, Nikopol city
• Mikhail Poddubnov, Dnipropetrovsk city The length of the route is 300 m. The proposed category of complexity is 5A. This ascent is not a first ascent in the pure form. According to information from Sergey Nadtochy, the lower four sections were once climbed by Vladimir Kudrigsky, but he was not the first ascender either. There were indeed pitons there. Above, there were no traces. Although the inner corner leading to the yayla could have been used as a finish for the routes:

So­kol — 36

Gran' — 5А

The route runs parallel to Fantikov's "Bro­vi". Start — under the left edge of the "Brov'" cornice. Well-equipped with bolts, all stations on bolts. R1 — up the right black streak under the left edge of the "Brov'" cornice along a sheer wall (bolts) 10 m on aid climbing, then a traverse left to the beginning of an internal corner. Enter it through a cork and up to a bulge in the shape of a bottle with the neck facing down. On the right side of the Bottle, climb up to a bulge and traverse 2 m to the right. Station on 3 bolts. R1 — 40 m, 80°, VI-, A2. R2 — Traverse right, and through cracks, moving left, exit under the "Brov'" cornice left of

«Belka»

The route passes in the left part of the Chelebi bastion. The start is to the left of the «Strelka» Suslov's route, approximately twenty meters away. Up a vertical internal corner between two slabs:

• free climbing 5 cat. diff. — 10 m to a ledge (on the first two pitons, loops hang for orientation).
• from the ledge 15–20 m up a thin crack and so on A2 (skyhooks may be needed) to a rusty ledge. On the rusty ledge, it's possible to make a station (there's an old rusty piton with a loop, approximately 30 m from the ground). From the ledge upwards, first along the crack, then skyhooks in the direction of the cornice. The cornice is passed in the left part. Behind the cornice, to the right, to a good crack. On the second drilled hole, there's a station. The section is 30 m and A2. There are six drilled pitons:
• The lower one is rusty, left over from Suslov's attempt. Then, along good cracks, straight up in the direction of the white internal corner. местами лазание, местами и.т.о. A1. The section is 40 m. The station is at the base of the white internal corner, there's a drilled piton. Up the corner 20 m and A2 to the junction with «Strelka».

Chelebi — 7

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odessa Che­le­bi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes The Che­le­bi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Bai­dar­skie vo­ro­ta" pass and the Il'­yas-Ka­ya mountain. The relative height is 200 m, the absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite the relatively low height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th category of difficulty have been laid through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, the Ber­shov route, there can be several ascents per day). Descent from the wall is possible both from the left and from the right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:

• Follow the yaila along the cliff towards the Bai­dar Gates for about 600–700 m.
• Near the descent couloir, there is a group of trees.
• Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.

Agepsta Main 3. ridge — cat. diff. Samoylenko V.V. Western Caucasus 2.1.

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Western Caucasus, Agetuka ridge 3. Agepsta Main peak, via the western ridge 4. Proposed — 3A cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 450 m, length — 1900 m Length of sections 4A–4B cat. diff. — 30 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 42°