Crimea, Sokol Mt. "Sestry Zaytsevy" Route, 2B
The "Sestry Zaytsevy" route (2B) is located in the near sector of Sokol Mt. In summer, this sector is in the shade around 3:00 PM. It was interesting to climb through the crack that goes through the first bastion. The approaches to the route, like most routes in the near sector, start from the "3rd kilometer" sign. You pass by the start of:
- "1" route,
- "Menuet",
- "hAachu"
and go further. The crack is clearly visible from both the road and the start.
First ascent: Vlad Chumachenko and Alexander Gorbatyuk (August 22, 2007)
Sudak, Sokol Mt. The original thread of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" 2B route
Later, the thread of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" route was corrected:
The start is at the same place. The R1 station is placed 6 meters higher than shown in the previous version. The station is equipped with a bollard.
The R2 station is canceled. Now the R2 station is on a ledge.
There is a large distance between R2 and R3; you can make an additional station on a ledge near a tree with a 60-meter rope, but it's not necessary. You go straight to R3 on the tree.
From R3:
- up to the right towards the crack,
- then up through it to a 10-meter ledge (anchors, nuts)
- move right along the ledge and crawl under to a bollard,
- after the bollard, go up to the right in the direction of a vertical hook.
Do not knock out the hook! It is left specifically for users.
After the bollard, the climbing is on friction (both hands and feet), 3–4 meters 6a, then it gets easier.
R4 is on a ledge with two bollards.
From R4, go straight up, and after 15 meters, move right along the ledge with gear to the exit. In the new version, it feels like a not-so-difficult 3A.
Routes of the eastern sector of Sokol Mt.
The climbing category feels like 3A, but the route classification was ultimately approved as 2B.
Route description:
R0–R1 — 25 m. Climbing 5a to a "recess" ledge with overgrown grass. There is a station on one hook + personal gear.
Sokol Mt. Start of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" route
First rope of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" 2B route
Station on personal points
R1–R2 — 20 m. Climbing 5c through a wide crack to the station. Large friends come in handy.
The station is on a channel + personal points. Small friends, nuts.
Sokol Mt. Passing the 2nd rope of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" route
Sokol Mt. Passing the 2nd rope of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" route
Sokol Mt. Passing the 2nd rope of the "Sestry Zaytsevy" route
R1–R2 — 40 m. Climbing 5b through a thin crack, partially overgrown with grass, to the left to a large ledge. From the ledge up through a system of:
- horizontal
- vertical small cracks. It's all easy and comfortable to climb, "under the hand," to the bend. Behind the bend, there is a station on a large tree.
R2–R3 — 50 m. Simple climbing on lying rocks. The landmark is a rock ridge in the center of the "mirror." The station is on a small tree near this ridge.
R3–R4 — 20 m. Crawl to a large tree on the right. It's also the R3 station of the "DVOIKA SLEVA" route.
Further, the route continues on "Dvoika Sleva," so I take the description of the last ropes from the Sokol guidebook.
Exit to "Dvoika Sleva"
- R5–R6 — 50 m. Climbing 6a+ on slabs under the "balda." Insurance is problematic. After the bollard, go left. It's better not to make a station on the tree. The station is on a small juniper + personal gear.
- R6–R7 — 25 m. Climbing 5a. The station is on a plateau.
Sokol Mt. "Sestry Zaytsevy" route, 2B. Last station
Author: Vlad Chumachenko (Kyiv)