4.1.19

Report

OF THE TEAM OF THE UNION OF SPORTS SOCIETIES AND ORGANIZATIONS OF UZBEKISTAN ON THE ASCENT TO PIK IZVESTIYA 6840 m, MADE IN THE SUMMER SPORTS SEASON OF 1964. Tashkent – 1964

Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Pik Izvestiya Area

Pik Izvestiya (6840 m) is located in the heart of the Pamir Mountains, near the highest peak in the USSR — Pik Kommunizma — in the Petra I ridge. To the south of the peak lies a spur of the Petra I ridge, approximately 5 km long, featuring three six-thousander peaks:

• Ordzhonikidze 6280 m

ASCENT PERFORMED IN THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM ON AUGUST 15, 1977 Ascent Class — High-altitude Ascent Area — Central Pamir Ascent Route — Peak Izvestiy via the southeast wall Ascent Characteristics

• Altitude difference — 2050 m
• Route length — 2680 m
• Average steepness — 72° (wall)
• Length of complex sections — 1300 m (altitude difference — 1150 m; average steepness — 85°) Pitons driven:

24

REPORT

on the ascent to Peak Kalinina (6565 m) (first ascent) by the special group "Nurek" of CS SDSO "Burevestnik"

NW Wall of Peak Kalinina 6565 m

Geographic Description and Sporting Characteristics of Peak Kalinina

Description of Climbing Conditions

Peak Kalinina (6565 m) is located in the Academy of Sciences Range, Central Pamir. Along with Peaks Chetyrekh and Akhmadi-Donish, Peak Kalinina encloses the AYu-Dzhilga valley with a huge rocky-ice cirque. To the southeast, the massif of Peak Kalinina is quite dissected and is connected by gentle ridges to Peak Zhukova and an unnamed peak 6431 m. To the northwest, into the AYu-Dzhilga valley, Peak Kalinina drops with a two-kilometer rocky-ice wall. The first ascent to Peak Kalinina was made in 1972 by a group led by K. Kuzmin from the south, from the Odinnadtsati glacier. In 1974, a group led by V. Bozhukov, while traversing Peaks Kalinina and Kommunizma, ascended Peak Kalinina via the southeastern ridge, which runs from Peak Zhukova. Unlike other surrounding mountain regions, the AYu-Dzhilga valley is a relatively infrequently visited area of the Central Pamir. The beginning of mountaineering exploration in the area was made in 1966 by an expedition from Leningrad's "Spartak" led by Budanov. The Leningraders made ascents to Peak Akhmadi-Donish, Peak Chetyrekh, and Peak Yakira from the AYu-Dzhilga valley. Until the 1975 season, this was the only expedition to the valley.

25

Peak Kovshovykh (Central), 5800 m

via the central ridge of the western wall, combined, category 5A difficulty

Description of the First Ascent

made on August 8-10, 1968 by a group of climbers participating in the high-altitude alpinist gathering of the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society, led by Galchenko V.B. The description was compiled by:

• Galchenko V.B.
• Konev V.F.
• Silchenko S.L. with the participation of the coach-consultant, Master of Sports of the USSR, Levin M.S.

on the ascent of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) via the northwest edge, accomplished from August 3 to 16, 1972, during the USSR Armed Forces Championship in mountaineering. Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii (6439 m) is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko Range, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences Range near Peak Garmo. To the north and northwest, the upper reaches of the Bivachny Glacier adjoin the base of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii, while its southern slopes feed the right tributary of the Geographical Society Glacier. The eastern and northeastern slopes contribute to the formation of the twin-headed Koma-Akademii Glacier, which flows into the Fedchenko Glacier near a high-altitude weather station. The first ascent to the South Summit of Peak Koma-Akademii was made via the northeast face in 1965 by a team from the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the Uzbek SSR, led by A. P'yankov. In 1971, a team from the USSR Armed Forces mountaineering training camp, led by A. Bitny, repeated the ascent, reaching the north summit via the south summit and the southeast face. During the 1972 season, the base camp for the USSR Armed Forces mountaineers was established on July 25, 85 km from the town of Vanch, near the Geographical Society Glacier, at an altitude of 2600 m. The area of the planned ascents was well-studied during the 1971 USSR Armed Forces training camp, allowing all participants to immediately begin training climbs in the high-altitude zone. From July 27 to 31, all team members:

• participated in setting up assault camps #1 and #2;
• conducted thorough reconnaissance and reviewed the planned ascent routes;
• made necessary supplies of food and equipment;
• underwent active acclimatization at altitudes of 4200–5000 m.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Category. High-altitude and technical. 2. Ascent Region. Central and North-Western Pamir. 3. Ascent Route. Komakademii Peak, 6439 m, Western wall, Northern summit. 4. Ascent Characteristics. Height difference 1840 m, average steepness (wall) 72°, length of complex sections 1460 m. 5. Pitons driven: Rock - 159, ice - 67 (42 of which in rock), expansion - 2. 6. Number of man-hours - 71. 7. Number of nights and their characteristics - 5.

1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical
2. Climbing area, ridge: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Pik Komakademii, 6439 m, via the center of the southeast face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: — height difference — 1850 m, including wall section difference — 1480 m — ridge section difference — 370 m — length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1650 m — average steepness of the route — 75°, including "lap" — 65°, "bastion" + "book" — 75–80°
6. Pitons driven:

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kabardino-Balkarian ASSR

Report

on the first ascent via the center of the Southwest face to peak "KOMAKADEMIYA" 6439 m, approximately 6B category of difficulty. CENTRAL PAMIR (region of the "Geographical Society" glacier) Coach and team captain, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — Yu. POROKHNYA Nalchik September 5–20, 1975 ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":1651,"height":2333,"format": "Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/x8S3CPs7wa70kBDRuDtaMlrbwlIMSfaz/img-0.jpeg","id":64762345})

1. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the object of the first ascent. Brief description of the route conditions in the given area (remoteness from alpinist bases and means of communication, features of relief, weather conditions)

Peak "KOMAKADEMIYA" is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko glacier, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences range in the area of peak "GARMO". This region is quite remote from populated areas; the nearest settlement, Vanch, from which one can communicate with any city by post and transport (airplanes, cars), is 80 km away from the main base camp near the Geographical Society glacier. Automobiles from the "Khrustalny" mine travel to this location. The name "peak 'Komaakademii'" appeared on maps compiled by surveyor Dorofeev based on surveys in 1938. In the same year, the first acquaintance of alpinists with the peak took place. An expedition led by N.V. KRYLENKO penetrated from the upper reaches of the Tanymas river to the Fedchenko glacier and "...was struck by two peaks of one mountain, which we," he writes, "from then on called the double-peaked one. They were higher than the others."

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, 2.3
2. Peak name: Dalar, North-Eastern edge
3. Category 5B complexity
4. Route type: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1422 Section lengths:

• Category V complexity: 830
• Category VI complexity: 10 Average steepness: