240. Bodorku Western — Eastern

(combined route, 2A cat. of difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the Bashil tourist center (group 4–50 people) to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Bashil glacier is described in route 236. Across the plateau (closed crevasses), bypassing the broken part of the Eastern branch on the right, approach the broken ice-and-snow western slope of the Northern ridge of the Bodorku massif. From the glacier, first ascend along the center of the gently sloping ice-and-snow western slope in the direction of the snowy summit dome of Bodorku. Then, above the lower crevasses and ice falls, ascend upwards — to the left in the direction of the saddle of the Northern ridge. Bypassing numerous crevasses, the ascent along the ice-and-snow slope to the saddle of the Northern ridge — the Bodorku pass. The path to the Bodorku pass from the Chegem tourist center is described in route 241. On the saddle (when ascending via Bashil glacier), turn right and move along the wide, gently sloping ice-and-snow Northern ridge (cornices on the left); bypass rocky sections via ice-and-snow couloirs on the right. Having traversed an ice crevasse via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope to the ice dome of the Bodorku Western summit. From the pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the Western summit, descend along the gently sloping easy, местами острому, сильно разрушенному и заснеженному скальному (rocky, presumably) Southeastern ridge to the saddle (cornice). From the saddle, ascend along the steep, острому, сильно разрушенному и заснеженному rise (cornices, protection required) of the Northwestern ridge to the shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend along the simple, snow-covered, gently sloping Northwestern ridge to the summit of Bodorku Eastern. From the Western summit — 3–4 hours.

Dea­lyk 0-yuga to WB through the glacier 3B cat. sl.

Ae­bou

The path from the "Dea­lyk" a/l to the bridge, then along the right bank of the Kullum-Kol river to the terminal moraine, along which they ascend and exit onto glacier 10. Pnom-Su, then along its right (orographic) side to the confluence of glaciers 3. and 10. Pnom-Su. The glacier is open, with few crevices. Further from the Kichkid. camps, located at the confluence of glaciers:

• along the tongue of glacier 3. Pnom-Su to the e. Kichkid. camps.
• From the E. K. camps — the path is in the direction of Donkin pass along simple snowy ascents.

Fig. 12 41. Sugantau via the South Slope (snow and ice route, category 2B difficulty level, Fig. 12). From the tourist base hut located on a wide grassy clearing in the Karasu valley, on the right bank of the Dykhsu River, at the entrance to the canyon of the same gorge (group size: 4-20 people), descend to the Karasu River along a trail and cross it via a bridge. Then, ascend along the Karasu River's bank in the direction of the Shtulu Pass. The trail crosses the river several times via small bridges. Near the lake on the right bank of the Karasu River:

• Turn left, away from the trail leading to the Shtulu Pass;
• Ascend up the steep slope on the left bank of the Aksu River until reaching the confluence with the stream flowing from the Yuzhny Sugan Glacier. After this:
• Cross the Aksu River;
• Ascend along the Yuzhny Sugan stream;

Fig. 12 43. Sugantau via East Counterforce (combined route by K. Vinogradov, category 3A, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the rocky platforms at the base of the East counterforce of Sugantau's South ridge, under the right side of Gyulchi pass, is described in route 46. Without reaching the platforms, continue ascending the Doppakh glacier, following its left side, until the icefall in the upper part of the glacier, between the eastern slopes of Sugantau peak and the rocky island in the center of the glacier. Pass through the icefall between the crevasses

Fig. 12 45. Sugantau via the North Ridge (combined route by N. Misyura, Category 3B difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the base camp (a group of 4–8 people) on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier, to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau under the left side of the North Ridge of Sugantau is described in route 48. From the base camp — 3.5–4 hours. The approach path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the Sugan-2 pass is described in routes 46 and 44. From the Sugan-2 pass:

• descend a steep ice-and-snow slope, with a bergschrund in the lower part, to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Sugan Glacier
• approach the initial bivouac under the left (eastern) side of the North Ridge of Sugantau across the plateau. From the plateau (departure at 3–4 am), bypassing the rocky outcrop at the base of the North Ridge of Sugantau from the left (east), turn right and ascend a gentle 150–160-meter ice-and-snow slope (with protection) to a saddle on the North Ridge. A possible bivouac site is available here. On the saddle, turn left and ascend:
• a gentle, straightforward, occasionally moderately difficult slope

Fig. 19 72. Taymaz East via North-Eastern Ridge (snow and ice route, category 2B, fig. 19). From the Taymazi glade (group of 4–20 people), descend along the trail to the bridge over the Khares River, above the confluence of its right tributary, Tanadon. Cross the Khares River here via the bridge. From the Digoriya CPS:

• Down the gorge to Tanadon.
• From here, ascend along the wide forest trail of the valley along the right bank of Tanadon.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. Combined route. 2. Central Caucasus. Digoria. Main Caucasian Range. 3. Tajmazi Glavnaja 3803 m. Western ridge. 4. Category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference 600 m. Average steepness of sections determining the complexity of the routes is 60°. The total length of these sections is 160 m. Route length is 1150 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 10 ice - 3 placements used - 11

Fig. 19 74. Taymaz West via West Ridge (a combined route, 3A category of difficulty, Fig. 19). The path from the "Taymazi" meadow (a group of 4–8 people) to the red cliffs at the head of the Taymazi River is described in route 72. At the red cliffs (rockfall):

• ford the Taymazi River;
• ascend through the boulder field on the right bank to the talus slopes. Climb the talus slopes to the northern ridge — a spur of Tcentral'naya Taymazi Peak. From here, move right and, traversing the moraines beneath the broad tongue of the Zapadny Taymazi Glacier, reach its right-lateral moraine. Ascend along the moraine crest, which gradually turns left, to almost beneath the northeastern rocky slopes of Glavnaya Taymazi Peak. Here, leave the moraine and move left onto the Zapadny Taymazi Glacier, staying on its right side (closed crevasses), and reach the Taymazi Pass that connects the Zapadnaya (left) and Glavnaya Taymazi (right) peaks. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the Taymazi Pass. On the narrow rocky ridge's flat areas of the pass is the starting bivouac. From the "Taymazi" meadow — 8–10 hours. On the pass, turn left and:

Fig. 19 73. Taymaz Western peak ascent via North-East couloir and Western ridge (combined route by A. Rzhevsky, category III difficulty, fig. 19). The path from "Taymazi" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the exit onto the Taymazi East glacier is described in route 72. Upon reaching the Taymazi East glacier (closed crevasses), cross it, avoiding crevasses, upwards to the right under the North ridge - a spur of the Tsentralnaya Taymazi peak, separating the Taymazi East and Taymazi West glaciers. From the Taymazi East glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge, then ascend a steep avalanche-prone slope, followed by a snow slope, and further up - a simple, fragmented rocky couloir to reach the broad North ridge - a spur of Tsentralnaya Taymazi. The ridge serves as the initial bivouac site. The journey from "Taymazi" meadow takes 5-6 hours. From the bivouac, descend from the ridge onto the snow plateau of the Taymazi West glacier and traverse it (closed crevasses), avoiding crevasses to the left, to approach a steep snow couloir descending northeast from the Western ridge and the North counterfort of Taymazi West. From the plateau, overcome the wide bergschrund in the center via a snow bridge, then ascend directly up the 500-600-meter ice-and-snow couloir (possible rockfall from the left walls - belay) and through a steep ice gorge (pitched belay) to reach the right side of the first pinnacle on the Western ridge of Taymazi West.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru