Mshatka-Kaya — 8

Via the second counter-forcing route of the western part of the "Ear" massif, 4A

This is one of the most popular routes among climbers of average qualification. From the upper highway 50 m east of the climbers' parking near Forosky Kant:

• up and to the right at first along the trail and simple rocks
• to the base of the second counter-forcing route of the western part of the massif (R0: 300 m, 30–45, no category). On the R1–R2 section:
• up the system of walls and shelves
• then along the inner corner to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 700, III). On the R2–R4 section — at first up and left into the inner corner. Then along it for 70 m.

Sokol Mt., "Gammi Wall" route (1B)

General view Notes:

1. The route is good because the sun is in full force only after noon, and it is also well protected from winds that sometimes blow off the routes along the main wall.
2. Since the route in the middle part passes through a series of rain gullies, passing it in the rain is dangerous - water can carry stones.
3. Helmets are mandatory on the route due to the presence of loose rubble in the upper part.

Crimea, So­kol mountain. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B

So­kol. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B (A. Brynza — S. Brynza, 1994)

Another name for it is "Pol­torush­ka" (respectively, different first ascenders, 1970) Time to complete the route for an average team is 1.5–2.5 hours. So­kol. "Edinitsa sprava" route 1B

Technical description of the route:

R0–R2: 60–80 m, 4c, then:

• left — up the diagonal crack to a tree
• then along the ledge to the inner corner

Tourist Encyclopedia

Ridge Traverse 2A cat. dif. (Sokol)

Ridge Traverse. View from the side of Novy Svet village. The route is on the border of the 4th sector of Sokol mountain. The description is given according to the "Guidebook" on alpine routes of Crimea. Sokol mountain.

Approach Path

The approaches are quite simple: from the pocket near the road, above the Bay of Love, up the path. (Actually, it's not even a path, but a whole road! — ed.)

Route Description

The landmark for the start of the route is 15 m to the left along the ledge from the memorial plaque (start of

Crimea, Sokol Mt. "Vecnaya molodost" Route, 3B

The "Vecnaya molodost" route is located in the western sector of Sokol Mt., next to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. A good, logical 3-pitch route that leads to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route in its upper part. Protection is natural (nuts, friends, pitons); there is little old gear. Belay stations are on trees, on key ropes on their own protection points + pitons (bolts). The approach to the route coincides with the approach to the "Grebnevaya dvojka" route. Start 30 meters to the right, from the sign. It's convenient to set up a belay station on a large pine tree.

Sokol Mount, "Kosaia" route, classic variant — 3B (V, 8 pitches), author unknown.

The original name of the route is "Kosaia chetverka" (Kosaia four), initially classified as 4A, later it was (quite reasonably) downgraded to 3B. For a 3B category route, it's quite complex. One of the old classic routes on Sokol Mount. Logical line. Plenty of old "iron" (pitons) can be found, belay stations on trees or bolts. In recent years, a variant of the upper part was climbed via the right crack — in this case, the route category is 4A. Sokol Mount. Description of the "Kosaia (chetverka)" route, classic variant — 3B. Lower part of the route (R0–R4) Approach to the route: from the parking area at the 4th km of the Sudak — Novy Svet highway, opposite the viewpoint with a stone bearing the inscription "Slava voinam-geroiam" (Glory to the hero-warriors). From the parking area, a good trail leads right-up under the cliffs. You need to ascend to the "Galochka" (right) ledge. The landmark during the ascent to the ledge is a large dry tree. The exit to it is via a wide internal corner, climbing is not difficult (I–II), but it's better to rope up. Approach to the route and start of the route. Then along the ledge left, practically to its end. The landmark is a slanting crack with an overhanging block on the left and a tree on the right. Start of the R0–R1 pitch. R0–R1: 50 m, IV (5c). The start is from a large tree in the lower part of the slope.

By the Eastern Edge (ПК), 2B (V. Kozinogo route, 1973)

The route goes through a wide internal corner that vertically cuts through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering in the ridge between the peaks of Forosky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and serves as a conditional boundary between them. From the road, near the alpinist camps:

• 200 m up along the trail
• then 50 m along simple rocks under a reddish overhanging wall located slightly to the right of the wide internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no category). On the R3–R4 section — first up the slab, and then up and to the right 20 m (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–60, II–III). On the final section of the route — first left and up 25 m to a small couloir. From it, up to a large, overgrown with bushes, couloir. Along it, 25 m up to the summit plateau (R4 — summit: 120 m, 50–60°, I–II). Variation: On the R1–R2 section — from the grotto up, first along the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+). The length of the main part of the route is about 240 m. Time to complete the route is 2–3 hours. P.S. The full name of this route is not "Right Edge" as some people think, but "P — — — and kitten". This is not a literary name given by the first ascenders — Dnipropetrovsk students who got into trouble on this route.

Foros kant — 7

Along the left side of the "green corner", 4a (20 m, V) (route by A. Brynza, 1991)

The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and called Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir, descending from the Green inner corner. From the alpine camps, walk about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall. Having overcome a small wall, move right along the shelf to the large inner corner located on the

On the right side of the southeast wall, 5A (option 4B)

The route passes on the left side of a wide internal corner, which cuts vertically through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering of the ridge between the peaks of Forossky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and is a conditional boundary between them. The last section of the route, which passes through a sheer wall with two small ledges, is the most difficult. It can be replaced by an ascent along the несложной upper part of the wide internal corner. In this case, the complexity of the route is reduced by half a category (option). From the road, near the alpine camps, 200 m up along the trail, and then 50 m along simple rocks to a grotto located at the base of the internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no tech). On the section R1–R2 — from the grotto up, first on the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. Further (section R2–R3), traverse along the shelf 20 m to the left (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+; 20 m, 70°, II). On the section R3–R5 — up along a steep, smooth wall with a small number of cracks (R3–R5: 30 m, 75°, V+; 50 m, 75°, V). On the section R5–R6 — up and to the right along rocks of medium complexity (R5–R6: 40 m, 70°, III). On the section R6–R7 — up and to the left 20 m along simple rocks to the base of a large vertical internal corner (R6–R7: 20 m, 60°, I). On the last section of the route — up along the left sheer 30-meter wall of the internal corner with two small ledges. The ledges are passed head-on (R7–peak: 30 m, 80°, V+).

Route №13

“Wedding” (“The Hole”)

2A IV 260 m (7 pitches). Average passage time — 3–5 hours. The easiest route to the summit of Chelebi-Yaurun-Beli, however, climbers should be able to navigate the terrain well. The starting point of the route is a horizontal shelf, on the western edge of which a tree grows. Two memorial plaques dedicated to deceased climbers can serve as landmarks. R0–R1: 30 m. Go left along the shelf to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Insurance point on the tree.

• 10 m I
• 20 m II–III R1­–R2: 40 m. This is the most difficult section of the route. Up through simple rocks to a rock spall. Continue moving up through it and then through simple sloping rocks to a large shelf overgrown with trees. Insurance point on one of them.
• 15 m II
• 10 m IV