Sokol Mount, "Kosaia" route, classic variant — 3B (V, 8 pitches), author unknown.

The original name of the route is "Kosaia chetverka" (Kosaia four), initially classified as 4A, later it was (quite reasonably) downgraded to 3B. For a 3B category route, it's quite complex. One of the old classic routes on Sokol Mount. Logical line. Plenty of old "iron" (pitons) can be found, belay stations on trees or bolts.

In recent years, a variant of the upper part was climbed via the right crack — in this case, the route category is 4A.

Sokol Mount. Description of the "Kosaia (chetverka)" route, classic variant — 3B. Lower part of the route (R0–R4)

Approach to the route: from the parking area at the 4th km of the Sudak — Novy Svet highway, opposite the viewpoint with a stone bearing the inscription "Slava voinam-geroiam" (Glory to the hero-warriors). From the parking area, a good trail leads right-up under the cliffs. You need to ascend to the "Galochka" (right) ledge. The landmark during the ascent to the ledge is a large dry tree. The exit to it is via a wide internal corner, climbing is not difficult (I–II), but it's better to rope up.

Approach to the route and start of the route. Then along the ledge left, practically to its end. The landmark is a slanting crack with an overhanging block on the left and a tree on the right.

Start of the R0–R1 pitch. R0–R1: 50 m, IV (5c). The start is from a large tree in the lower part of the slope.

Ascent:

• Up through cracks
• Past a tree
• At the end — traverse right to a canopy with a tree

Belay station on bolts next to a tree. Self-protection + occasional pitons.

R0–R1–R2 pitches, movement along the slanting crack. R1–R2: 60 m, IV–IV+ (5c+). From the belay station, return left into the crack and up through it. At the start, the terrain is destroyed, be careful.

Start of the R1–R2 pitch, view from the belay station. Up through cracks (mainly through the right one), belay station on a convenient ledge on two old bolts + cam. If the rope is 50 m — the belay station can be made lower — piton + self-protection. On this pitch, there's a lot of old "iron", self-protection is also easy to organize. In the new guide (author: Sergey Nadtochiy), the pitch category is indicated as V+.

R2–R3: 20 m, II. Up through the internal corner to a ledge to a tree, then left along the ledge to the last tree — belay station there.

R2–R3, R3–R4 pitches: 50–55 m, 10 III + 20 V (5c+) + 20 III. Along the ledge left-up, then through a slanting internal corner under the bastion of the Right Chest. In the corner, protection is sometimes problematic, there are some pitons, climbing requires attention (many loose rocks).

Movement on the R3–R4 pitch, movement through a crack under the bastion. After about twenty meters, the terrain becomes easier, belay station on a tree below the start of the slabs (55 m).

As a variant:

• Belay station lower on a bolt + self-protection
• In the internal corner, before exiting the hollow.

R4–R5: 50 m, 5B. Up through the slabs, climbing is not difficult, with protection through trees. After 25–30 m — an old bolt, here on the right, the "Derevyannaya troika" (Wooden three) route joins. From the bolt, traverse left to a juniper.

R4–R5 pitch, turning point — bolt (for a thin carabiner). Further, the route coincides with "Derevyannaya troika" (Classic) and "Troika pravee Kosoi" (Three to the right of Kosaia). Pitch numbering is the same as in the "Pravee Kosoi" (To the right of Kosaia) route.

R6–R7: 55 m, III (5a). Continue traversing right — up in the direction of a tree growing in a noticeable internal corner, going right — up to the yayla.

• First, left along the ledge
• Then up — left
• At the end, again traverse left to a tree

In key places, there are 2 old bolts. Belay station in the internal corner, above the tree on a piton and a "carrot" (a type of cam), or on a tree.

Start of the R6–R7 pitch, R7–R8 traverse: 55 m, IV, (5b+).

Up through the internal corner with even climbing. In the middle — a small ascent, but the terrain is rich.

Protection:

• Through numerous pitons or bolts encountered
• Add self-protection as needed

Belay station on a ledge on two bolts, 5 m above a small tree near a characteristic rockfall.

A 50 m rope is just enough. If it's not enough:

• Make a belay station on a tree
• However, in this case, the next pitch will have to be divided into two, making an intermediate belay station on a tree or a pair of old pitons.

R8–R9: 45–50 m, IV (including 6 m V) up to 5c+. Up through the internal corner under a tree. Along the way, there are pitons and bolts, + self-protection.

R8–R9 pitch

A stump with a wedged stone is conveniently bypassed on the left (a small overhang — key part of the pitch), from the stone, you can clip into a "carrot".

The last 10 m up a vertical wall with a crack and convenient handholds. Belay station on the edge of the plateau on two bolts, approximately one and a half meters to the right of the crack. A 50 m rope is just enough.

R8–R9 pitch, key part of the route

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 50–60 m
• Set of cams and nuts
• 12–14 quickdraws
• 4 long and 1–2 short slings
• Rock hammer
• Anchors at discretion

Author of the description: Leonid Smidovich (Kharkov). Source: https://alpinist.biz/archives/2978↗