PASSPORT

1. Category of mountaineering ascent
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SSW ridge
4. 5B
5. Height difference 2505 m, length 3850 m, length of sections with category U-VI difficulty 1180 m, category VI difficulty 100 m, category V difficulty 1080 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: sections R0-R19 — 54°, sections R23-R27 — 47°, of which category VI difficulty at 80-90° — 100 m
6. Pitons used: | rock | chocks | bolt pitons | ice screws | | :--: | :----: | :---------: | :-------: | | 58 | 11 | - | 59 |

World Climbing Championship

2012 High-altitude class

Report

on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m via the southwestern slope and the left side of the southwestern edge, 5B category of difficulty (variant of the route by E. Kondakov, 1982) by the team from FAiS Ukraine (Ukraine-1), from August 10 to 18, 2009 Team coach: Mityukhin F. P. Team captain: Venslavovsky D. A.

Sheet 1, p. 1.

Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.
2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, 7.9.15 Via the Eastern counterfort of the Northern wall, O. Khudyakov's route, 1970.
3. 6A category of difficulty.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Elevation gain — 2795 m. Distance — 4530 m. Section lengths:

7.9.15a

Russian Mountaineering Championship. High-altitude technical class 1998.

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face, 7.9.12, first ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative) team of the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee. Team leader: Zhilin N.F. Team coach: Mikhailov A.A.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class.
2. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face.

ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) by the team of Mosoblsporkomitet.

I. High-altitude class

2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the center of the North face.
4. Myslovsky's Route. 6th cat. of difficulty. Second ascent.
5. Height difference 2350 m. Length 3930 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. of difficulty: 1640 m. Average steepness of the main part (4650-6950 m) is 55°. Including 6 cat. of difficulty: 70° (5060-5100 m), 90° (5200-5220 m), 85° (5550-5600 m).
6. Pitons used:
   • Rock pitons: 242/2
   • Chocks: 41/0

MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 Class of High-Altitude Ascents

Report

Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko) 6B category of complexity.

Passport of the Ascent

1. Region — Central Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.18.
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko).

n. Promezhutochny (4234)

Report

on the first ascent to Peak "Chelyabinsk" via the eastern side, category 4A difficulty (approximate). Group leader: Vyacheslav Savovich Marchenko — 1st sports category Participants: Gennadiy Georgievich Chavka — 1st sports category Alexander Ivanovich Savchenko — 1st sports category Vasily Konstantinovich Alexandrov — 1st sports category Group coach: Mikhail Mikhailovich Zakhzhiy The ascent was made on July 18, 1977.

Leningrad

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Bodkhona, 5138 m, via the left part of the western wall (A. Moshnikov's route, 2nd ascent)
4. Difficulty category: 6A
5. Height difference: 1100 m (wall section — 700 m) Length: 1900 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 70 °
6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | placements | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :------: | :-: |

Photo 1. View of Severnaia Matcha and Yuzhnaia Matcha from the upper reaches of the Zeravshan glacier.

Description of the ascent route to the summit Severnaia Matcha 4500 m via the southern edge (first ascent)

Group composition:

1. Rudnev V. S. — leader.
2. Melnikova R. N.
3. Zhgilev A. V.
4. Pinaev V. S. The Matcha peak 4500 m is located in the upper reaches of the Zeravshan glacier (Pamiro-Alai) in the Turkestan Range, north of the eponymous pass, and is actually two peaks, conditionally named Severnaia Matcha and Yuzhnaia Matcha (see photo 1), separated by a wide snow col. A wide snow couloir descends from the col to the glacier, making an ascent possible. The height of Severnaia Matcha, the higher of the two peaks, is determined with an accuracy of ±30 m. The absence of a cairn and other signs of human presence on the northern peak allows us to classify this ascent as a first ascent. The group of Arzamas 16, consisting of: Rudnev V. S. — leader, Melnikova R. N., Zhgilev A. V., Pinaev V. S. — members, made the first ascent to the peak Severnaia Matcha via the southern edge on July 18, 1969. The group left the base camp at the Matcha pass at 3:00, reached the summit at 8:00, and returned to the bivouac at 10:30 on the same day.