Activity Feed
Route Description: В склону
### Ascent Route to Nesen Dag (3925 m) via the Eastern Slope, Category II Difficulty The route involves a technically straightforward ascent with some steep sections, offering a relatively direct path to the summit. Key details include the gradient, path conditions, and notable technical sections, characterizing the overall II category difficulty.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent Class: snow
- Ascent Area: 2.9. Eastern Caucasus
- Peak, its Height, and Route: Nensendag (3925 m), via the eastern slope
- Estimated Difficulty Category: 2B
- Route Characteristics:
- elevation gain — 900 m
- average steepness — 45°
- section lengths:
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the route of the first ascent to the summit of Metiko (3812 m) along the North-Eastern ridge, category 2A.
PASSPORT
I. Category of first ascents. 2.2.10., mountains of Dagestan, Shalib ridge. 3. Metiko, 3812 m, from the north and along the north-eastern ridge, combined. 4. Assumed 2A category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness 40°, length 1000 m; of which 1 category of difficulty – 300 m, 2 category of difficulty – 655 m, 3 category of difficulty – 45 m. 6. Pitons hammered for rock protection – 1, 3 snow anchors placed. 7. Group's moving hours – 4 hours. 8. Without overnight stays. 9. Leader: Konstantin Eduardovich Dorro, 1st sports category.
Route Description: СЗ ребру
Description of the route to the summit of Wilpatta via the Northwest Ridge, highlighting key stages and safety measures.
The path from the Tsey district CSP or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the sites of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 3:00–4:00 am due to avalanche danger), from the snow plateau (closed crevasses) bypass Bivouachnaya peak from the left (from the north), and behind it approach the North-west edge of Uilpata peak. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund on a snow bridge, approach the rocks of the North-west edge along a steep ice-and-snow 100–120-meter slope. Up a steep ice slope on the right side of the rocks of the North-west edge 350–400 m straight up (pitons belay). Before the ice rise, exit left onto the rocks of the North-west edge. Up 40 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the edge to the rock rise, then up 40-meter rise with rocks of above medium difficulty («live» stones — pitons belay) — ascent to the talus sites. From the sites, along the rocks of medium difficulty of the edge, approach the wall, which is bypassed on the right along a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitons belay). Then up a steep 200-meter ice-and-snow North-west edge (pitons belay) — ascent to the summit ridge and along it (cornices) — exit to the summit of Uilpata.
Route Description: В гребню с л. Беленги
Description of the route to the peak Baidukova (4100) via the Eastern ridge from the Velenge glacier, category 2A, with a detailed analysis of the path and terrain features.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class: Combined
- Ascent region: №29 "Eastern Caucasus"
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Kosarakumeer (4097 m) (p. Baidukova, 4100 m) via the Eastern ridge from l. Belengi.
- Proposed difficulty category: 2A category of difficulty and 1000 m, 12/2-80 g.
- Route characteristics: Height difference 1000 m. Average steepness 25°. Length of sections:
- I category of difficulty — 1550 m
- II category of difficulty — 400 m
- III category of difficulty — 550 m
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Izhen (4025 m) via the northeast ridge in Dagestan, difficulty category 2A.
Climbing Passport
- Climbing type: combined
- Climbing region: 2.9.b, Dagestan mountains
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Izhena, 4025 m, via the NE ridge
- Estimated difficulty category: 1B
- Route characteristics:
- Elevation gain — 900 m
- Length of sections with 1st difficulty category — 1350 m, 2nd — 200 m
- Average steepness — 30°
- 2 glaciers
Route Description: ледовому Ю кулуару
First ascent description of the Wilpatta peak (4649 m) in the Caucasus via the left part of the southern glacier-snow slope, grade 3B complexity.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — ice and snow.
- Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey Range.
- Peak, route: Uilpata, via the left part of the southern ice slope.
- Expected category of difficulty, 3B — first ascent.
- Height difference: 900 m,
- including 500 m of wall section,
- total route length — about 800 m (wall section),
- average steepness of the route — 35°,
- steepness of the wall section — 45°.
Route Description: 3 гребню
Description of the combined route 1Б category of complexity to the summit Bodorku Western via the Western ridge from the Lyhat pass.
152. Bodorku Zapadnaya via Zapadny ridge (combined route, cat. 1B diff.,
fig. 20, 23). From Lychatskie ploschadki (climb 148) on the left side of Lychat
glacier (closed crevasses) approach Lychat passage. From the glacier, via snow,
then scree slope, further via badly damaged wet rocks of steep narrow couloir
ascend to Lychat passage, then turn right and reach Zapadny ridge of Bodorku
Zapadnaya. From here, 400–500 m upwards via easy damaged rocks with short
simple overcoming en route gendarmes and rises, bypassing more difficult
sections via ice-snow slopes on the left. And via steep ice-snow (closed
crevasses, corniche) slope of Zapadny ridge ascend to the summit of Bodorku
Route Description: внутр. углам правого «бастиона» СЗ стены
Report on the first ascent by the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Erydag via the inner corners of the right bastion of the NW wall in January-February 2010.
Russian Mountaineering Championship. First Ascent Category. Winter 2010
Report
on the first ascent by the Saint Petersburg team to Erydag (NW) 3877 m, via the inner corners of the right bastion on the NW wall.
January–February 2010
Ascent Passport
- Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, Chekhychay valley
- Erydag (NW), 3887 m, via the inner corners of the right bastion on the NW wall
- Complexity category: Proposed 6B category, first ascent
- Route type: rock
Route Description: карнизы центра правее баст. СЗ стены
Report on completing a mountaineering route of 6B category of complexity to the summit of Erydag via the cornices of the central part of the NW wall.
Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism
Report
on the passage of the climbing route category 6B on v. Erydag "through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall", made within the framework of the Russian Championship in Alpinism high-altitude and technical class (fifth passage of the route)
Passport of Ascent
- Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table 2013:
- Caucasus. 2.10. Mountains of Dagestan (from v. Shaviklade to v. Bazardyuzyu)
- Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: v. Erydag, height of the summit 3887, name of the route – through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall (route No. 48g of section 2.10. according to the classification table 2013).
- Category of complexity 6B.
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the ascent route to Uvarov Peak in the Tsey district via the northern slope with crossing a snowy plateau, bergschrund, and a sharp snowy ridge.
Fig. 30 — at the barob, SSKauuny, 15. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or the village of Dzanaga
(group of 420 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch
of the Karaugom plateau, under the northern slopes of Uvarov peak, is described in route 83.
From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) along the snowy plateau approach the northern slope of Uvarov peak. From the plateau, along the snowy slope reach the bergschrund and, overcoming
it along a snow bridge -
Along the snowy, almost horizontal ridge of the shoulder (cornices), then along the sharp
steep snowy ridge (cornices - insurance) exit to the third shoulder. From here along the
gently sloping, wide, местами острому (карнизы), then along the steep left-snowy
Northern