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Route Description: Перо
A 5A grade route to the summit of Maly Kilse-Burun via the central part of the southern wall and the Perо chip.
Maly Kilse-Burun — 4
Via the central part of the southern wall through the spalled "Feather", 5A (Y — 40 m) (S. Brynza's itinerary, 1991)
The description of the ascent to the wide rocky ledge under the central part of the southern
wall is given in route 3. The initial sections of this route coincide with route 3.
On the R2–R3 section, first ascend the slabs to the counterfort, and then follow it (R1–R2:
20 m, 60°, II; 40 m, 75°,
IV+).
On the R2–R3 section — ascend simple rocks to an internal corner located to the right of a
long and narrow spall ("Nashlyopka" or "Feather") (R2–R3: 20 m, 60°, I).
On the R3–R4 section — ascend the internal corner, transitioning into a chimney, until you
Route Description: Три карниза
Description of the "Three Cornices" route, category 5B difficulty level, to the summit of Maly Kilse-Burun with a detailed analysis of the stages and options for passage.
Maly Kilsе-Burun — 5B
The description was compiled by: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odesa "Three Cornices" route by Yuriy Lishaev 5B, VI, A2, 220 m The route starts from the left part of the "mould", 30–40 meters to the left of "Kop'e" ("German") R0–R1
- Up the wall with sharp holds, to a belay bolt 5–7 meters
- From the belay bolt traverse right to a crack
- Climb up the crack 10 m
- Then up a vertical slab with belay bolts A1, it's possible to
climb
Maly Kilsе "Three Cornices" 6A
Route Description: Скальная хирургия
The "Rock Surgery" route 6A on Maly Kilse-Burun, a detailed description of the route with technical details and characteristics of the complexity of each stage.
Maly Kilse-Burun, Skalnaya khirurgiya route, 6A, by V. Voloshanovsky
The start is to the right of the "Spear" near the white spot on the wall.
Maly Kilse, route threads
Route threads. Photo by: Alexey Zhilin
R0–R1, 40 m 6A, A2. Climb the slab to a bolt, then move right to a crack. After 7
m, the crack ends; continue right and up using ATC ( крючья, скайхуки). Exit to
a hanging position. Station on bolts.
R1–R2, 20 m 6A, A2. Cross the overhang using ATC (need bolts for 10 mm holes). Beyond
the overhang, a mix of climbing and ATC, up and right. Station on bolts (hanging).
R2–R3, 45 m 6a, A2. Up a narrow crack, enter an internal corner. Climb the corner
Route Description: Марсала
Description of the "Marsala" route, category 5B difficulty level, to the top of Kuba Kaya in Crimea, technically challenging and involving crack protection and climbing.
Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B
Kuba Kaya, along the left edge of the tower v. Kuba Kaya Tsentralnaya, 5B, (S. Pugachev — P. Shvets, 2008)
The technically challenging part of the route follows a pronounced, sometimes overhanging internal corner in the left part of the Central tower. Mainly, it's A1–A2 level aid climbing, with the upper 30 meters being IV-V category climbing.
The length of this part of the route is 100 m. 4 pitons were left behind - at 12 m, 35 m, 45 m, and 70 m.
It wasn't possible to fully commit and feel some kind of extreme; everything was calm and reliable.
If you "connect" the upper part with the lower part of the "9 Marta" route, you get a full-fledged Crimean 5B.
Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B
Crimea, Kuba Kaya. "Marsala" Route, 5B
Route Description: Параплан
Description of the 1Б route to the top of V. bashnya in the Kubа-Kaya massif, 300 m long, divided into 5 sections with a detailed description of belay and terrain.
Kuba-Kaya (V. tower) — 1B
“Paragliding”
Massif: Kuba-Kaya (662 m); Complexity: 3B; Author: Leontyeva Ekaterina, Burakova Anna, Hristich Irina; Year of creation: 2014; Number of pitches: 5;
Route length: 300 m
From the road, approach through the butcher's broom bushes towards the wall, orienting yourself by a pronounced internal corner of reddish color, crossing the lower bastion of the eastern tower from right to left. The route has many loose rocks and earth, however, the stations are positioned so that when the first climber moves, nothing falls on the second.
The rope must be 60 m.
R0–R1 Station on a tree with two trunks, growing horizontally from a crevice and located 3 m above the ground. Start climbing not through the internal corner with a wide crevice, which begins from the station, but 1-1.5 meters to the left of it.
Move upwards in the direction of a large, sprawling tree. From it, move up and to the left through the internal corner for about 10 m to reach the station. Station on a tree growing on the edge of a ledge.
Route Description: Через горловину левой чаши
The ascent route to the top of Kush-Kaya in Crimea via the West wall and West ridge through the "neck of the bowl", category of difficulty 2B, length 600 m, elevation gain 440 m.
Ascent Passport
I. Type: Rock climbing II. Region: Crimea, Batiliman III. Summit: Kush-Kaya IV. Route: Via the Southwest wall and Southwest ridge through the "gorge of the bowl" V. Climbing category: 2B VI. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 440 m, length — 600 m, average slope — 47° VII. Protection used: 8 pieces VIII. Duration: 2 hours; descent via trail — 0.5 hours IX. Ascent leader: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports
Route Description: Через каньон
Route of the 3A category of difficulty to the top of Kush-Kaya in Crimea, length 400 m, altitude difference 336 m, average steepness 56°, ascent time is 2.5 hours.
Climbing Passport
I. Type: Rock climbing 2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman 3. Peak: Kush-Kaya 4. Route: via 10-V wall (through the chimney) 5. Difficulty category: 3A 6. Route description: Height difference – 330 m, length – 400 m. Average steepness – 56° 7. Equipment used: rock pitons – 1 pc., nuts – 6 pcs. 8. Duration: 2.5 hours, descent via trail – 0.5 hours. 9. Climbing leader: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov; participants: Igor V. Tarasov, Dmitry B. Chebonenko; trainer: Igor K. Kaver. Climb completed on January 13, 1991.
Route Description: Диагональ
The "Diagonal" route is of the 5A category of difficulty, passing through the diagonal cleft of the southern wall, with interesting and varied terrain, but partially overgrown with grass and bushes.
Route №10 «Diagonal»
5A V+ A2 520 m (12 pitches). Average time to complete — 5–7 hours. The route goes through a diagonal groove that crosses the southern wall bowl from right to left. Its upper part coincides with Route №7 «Classic». The route is interesting. However, it is not popular because the diagonal groove in its middle part is heavily overgrown:
- with grass
- with bushes The path from the parking lot to the start of the route takes about 40 minutes. Follow the trail to climb to the foot of the rocks in the «Roping Ground» sector. Move along the grassy ledge with trees going up and to the left, heading west, and reach a large terrace. From here:
- Climb 15 m up the moderately difficult rocks to the next large terrace.
- Continue moving along the terrace to the west towards the base of a wide internal angle with a tree growing nearby.
- Start the route from here. R0–R1: 40 m. Move up and to the left along the internal angle for 20 m, then make a difficult traverse to the right to a rocky ledge. Follow it up and to the right to a group of strawberry trees.
Route Description: Надежда
The "Nadezhda" route, category 5A, on rock: path description, section characteristics, and required equipment.
Route №21 «Nadezhda»
(G. Tkachenko, M. Vorobyov, D. Savchenko, I. Shvets, 1978) 5A VI A2 355 m (9 pitches). Average time to complete — 5–8 hours. A beautiful and logical route. There are no anchors on it, so climbers will need not only the ability to navigate rocky terrain well, but also a set of varied equipment, including:
- anchor pitons
- large cams From the parking lot, ascend via the trail to a large clearing. From here:
- first, up along the forest path,
- then up and right along ledges and gentle slabs.
Route Description: Штаны, правый
The route is category 5B difficulty on the southern wall of the Kuš-Kak peak in Crimea; it is 440 m long with a height difference of 370 m and an average steepness of 58°.
Ascent Passport
- Rock climbing
- Region: Crimea, Batiliman
- Peak: Kush-Kaya
- Route: via South wall, "pants" via the right pant leg
- Difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 370 m, length — 440 m. Average steepness — 58°
- Pitons used: rock — 28 pcs.
- Duration: 6 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours
- Ascent leader: Pavlov Yuri Dmitrievich, 1st sports category, participant: Devin Andrey Viktorovich, 2nd sports category