Route №21 «Nadezhda»

(G. Tkachenko, M. Vorobyov, D. Savchenko, I. Shvets, 1978)

5A VI A2 355 m (9 pitches). Average time to complete — 5–8 hours.

A beautiful and logical route. There are no anchors on it, so climbers will need not only the ability to navigate rocky terrain well, but also a set of varied equipment, including:

• anchor pitons
• large cams

From the parking lot, ascend via the trail to a large clearing. From here:

• first, up along the forest path,
• then up and right along ledges and gentle slabs.

A 100-meter rock spall leaning against the main wall can serve as a landmark. It is clearly visible from the road. The top of the spall has a horizontal platform with a large tree. Some sections of the route pass through the angle formed by this spall and the main rock mass to the left of the spall. The first pitch begins on a ledge near a large juniper.

R0–R1: 20 m. Move up and right along the slab, choosing the easiest path. Reach a ledge at the base of the internal angle. 20 m III+.

R1–R2: 50 m. Ascend the internal angle using stoppers and large cams for protection. Reach the overhanging rocks, overcome them, and ascend a crack to a ledge with a tree. Organize a belay station on the tree. 20 m V; 10 m VI; 20 m V+ A1.

R2–R3: 45 m. Up and left along the internal angle overgrown with grass. Belay station R3 is on a tree. 45 m V.

R3–R4: 50 m. Move up and left through a system of cracks to a rock ledge. From it, ascend the internal angle, then move left to a belay station shared with Route №20 «Ugolok». There are two anchors here. 50 m III.

R4–R5: 50 m. Ascend the internal angle, then up and right to a tree. 50 m IV+

R5–R6: 30 m. Ascend to the internal angle and move up and right along it to a small ledge. Belay station is on personal anchors. 30 m V+.

R6–R7: 50 m. Ascend a crack with a steeper lower section, then continue along the crack to the upper section of the route.

In areas with negative slope, move up and reach a small ledge. Then:

• up a crack
• up and right along the internal angle

From the angle, move right to a crack. Ascend it to the base of the next internal angle. Climb it to a small ledge. Belay station R7 is on personal anchors. 50 m V+ A1.

R7–R8: 30 m. Up and right along a crack. When it ends, move 5 m along blind cracks using artificial aids. Then, by free climbing, move right to a crack leading up. Exit it onto gentle rocks. Belay station is on personal anchors.

Characteristics:

• 15 m V
• 5 m A2
• 10 m V

R8–R9: 30 m. Up and left along an inclined internal angle onto the yaila. 30 m III+

Olga Paduchova and Anastasia Nadyimova at the start of the «Mal'chish-Kibal'chish» route, Ryжая rock, Laspi. Photo by E. Nadyimov