Ku­ba-Ka­ya (V. tower) — 1B “Par­agliding”

Massif: Ku­ba-Ka­ya (662 m); Complexity: 3B; Author: Le­on­tye­va Ekaterina, Bu­ra­ko­va Anna, Hristich Irina; Year of creation: 2014; Number of pitches: 5; Route length: 300 m

From the road, approach through the butcher's broom bushes towards the wall, orienting yourself by a pronounced internal corner of reddish color, crossing the lower bastion of the eastern tower from right to left. The route has many loose rocks and earth, however, the stations are positioned so that when the first climber moves, nothing falls on the second.

The rope must be 60 m.

R0–R1 Station on a tree with two trunks, growing horizontally from a crevice and located 3 m above the ground. Start climbing not through the internal corner with a wide crevice, which begins from the station, but 1-1.5 meters to the left of it.

Move upwards in the direction of a large, sprawling tree. From it, move up and to the left through the internal corner for about 10 m to reach the station. Station on a tree growing on the edge of a ledge.

Throughout the entire pitch, there are many loose rocks and blocks. Protection: cams, large nuts III; 45 m R1–R2

From the tree, move upwards and after 2-3 meters, enter the internal corner. Climb up through it, then up and to the left, moving along the inclined reddish crack. Protection with medium-sized stoppers.

After about 15 meters, exit onto a small horizontal ledge. Then:

• Climb up and to the left, traversing the wall for another 15 meters with careful climbing.
• Not reaching a few meters to a vertical, wide couloir, climb up the wall towards a small juniper.
• From it, climb up towards a large cluster of trees.

Station on the upper large, sprawling oak.

Throughout the entire pitch, there are many loose rocks, and in the upper part, a lot of earth.

Protection: cams, small and medium-sized stoppers

15 m, IV; 20 m, V; 20 m, III

R2–R3: Move up and to the right along the inclined, wide ledge, where trees and bushes grow. Station on a large pine, slightly above which stands a dry tree trunk without branches.

Protection through trees, 40 m, II, R3–R4

From the station, move up along the ledge

• Overcome a 5-meter smooth, inclined slab and approach a juniper.
• From it, climb up the wall towards the next small juniper growing out of the wall.
• From it, a vertical crack begins; climb along it upwards.

Above, the wall becomes gentler and is covered with earth. Not reaching 2 meters to the gentler slope, shift 1 meter to the left (at this point, there is a small natural hole in the wall, where an anchor fits perfectly).

After overcoming the wall, enter a hollow. From it, move 10 m upwards and to the right towards a small pine. Station on it + own protection points (there are cracks for anchors).

Protection: cams, anchors

20 m, III–IV; 20 m, V; 15 m, IV R4–R5

From the station, climb up a couple of meters, then traverse 5 m to the right into a wide internal corner. Climb up through it until a gap in the ridge, where a large, sprawling pine grows. Station on it.

Protection: cams, medium and large-sized stoppers

60 m, III R5–R6

From the station, climb up and to the left through a small wall onto the ridge, then move along the ridge until a gentle, grassy slope appears on the right.

60 m, I–II