Route №10 «Diagonal»

5A V+ A2 520 m (12 pitches). Average time to complete — 5–7 hours.

The route goes through a diagonal groove that crosses the southern wall bowl from right to left. Its upper part coincides with Route №7 «Classic». The route is interesting. However, it is not popular because the diagonal groove in its middle part is heavily overgrown:

• with grass
• with bushes

The path from the parking lot to the start of the route takes about 40 minutes. Follow the trail to climb to the foot of the rocks in the «Roping Ground» sector. Move along the grassy ledge with trees going up and to the left, heading west, and reach a large terrace. From here:

• Climb 15 m up the moderately difficult rocks to the next large terrace.
• Continue moving along the terrace to the west towards the base of a wide internal angle with a tree growing nearby.
• Start the route from here.

R0–R1: 40 m. Move up and to the left along the internal angle for 20 m, then make a difficult traverse to the right to a rocky ledge. Follow it up and to the right to a group of strawberry trees.

Route:

• 10 m М II
• 15 m М IV
• 5 m М V
• 10 m М II

R1–R2: 50 m. Move 3 m to the right, then climb up through an overhanging angle using large protection elements for belay. When the internal angle ends, move up and to the right to a tree. The R2 anchor on the tree is recommended to be supplemented with additional protection points.

Route:

• 20 m М V+
• 20 m М V
• 10 m М III

R2–R3: 50 m. Continue moving up and to the right, choosing the easiest path. The belay anchor is on one of the trees. 50 m II.

R2–R3: 80 m. Up and to the right to a rocky ledge, then up and to the left to the base of a bowl. The belay anchor is on a large pine tree. 80 m I.

R4–R5: 60 m. Move 5 m to the right to the base of the bowl. Then climb up along the gentle rocks near the groove to a tree. Above the tree, a special crown (sleeping) is hammered into the rock for a removable bolt hanger.

60 m:

• 5 m easy
• 15 m II
• 40 m III+

R5–R6: 50 m. Make a 5-meter traverse to the left to the start of the groove named «Diagonal». There's an old ice screw in it. Climb 45 m up the groove. The belay anchor is recommended to be placed just below a small tree.

50 m:

• 5 m II
• 45 m VA1

R6–R7: 40 m. Climb 20 m up the groove to overhanging rocks, then move to the right to non-monolithic slabs. From here, follow a thin groove for 5 m on artificial holds using anchor hooks. Move to the left side of the angle and climb 10 m to gentle rocks. The belay anchor is on personal protection points.

• 25 m — V
• 5 m — A2
• 10 m — V-

R7–R8: 20 m. Approach the corniche that crosses the groove, overcome it, and move along the gentle rocks to the left, towards the southwest buttress. Here, the route coincides with the «Classic» line.

• 10 m V
• 5 m VA1
• 5 m III.

R8–R9: 40 m. Climb up along the simple rocks of the ridge. After 20 m, move to the left, then climb up along the internal angle to a ledge. The belay anchor is one anchor and personal protection points.

• 40 m II–III.

R9–R10: 40 m. Climb 10 m up the slabs with large holds. Then move to the left, traverse a smooth rocky wall, and approach an internal angle. Climb up along it to a small ledge. The belay anchor is on bolt hangers. 40 m III+.

R10–R11: 50 m. Continue climbing up along simple rocks and reach the yayla. The belay anchor is on anchors. 50 m II.