Climbing Passport

I. Type: Rock climbing 2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman 3. Peak: Kush-Kaya 4. Route: via 10-V wall (through the chimney) 5. Difficulty category: 3A 6. Route description: Height difference – 330 m, length – 400 m. Average steepness – 56° 7. Equipment used: rock pitons – 1 pc., nuts – 6 pcs. 8. Duration: 2.5 hours, descent via trail – 0.5 hours. 9. Climbing leader: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov; participants: Igor V. Tarasov, Dmitry B. Chebonenko; trainer: Igor K. Kaver. Climb completed on January 13, 1991. 10. Organization: Sevastopol Alpinist Club img-0.jpeg KUSH-KAYA via chimney (through the gully) 3A category. Approach from the belay station along the ledge left and up, then 20 m up through the cracks to a large terrace under the yellow overhanging rocks, under them to the right to a tree growing on the slope inflection. R0–R1. From the tree up 10–15 m and to the right through several strawberry trees another 15 m to a ledge. R1–R2. Straight up through a small inner corner to a ledge under a smooth slab, pass it on the left side, and climb up through the inner corner left and up to a tree. R2–R3. 5 meters through the corner under a 4-meter wall, exit onto a grassy ledge, walk right and up to a tree under the overhanging reddish rocks. R3–R4. From the tree to the left onto a gray slab and through a crack 15 m to a tree on a ledge. Then go in the direction of the large chimney (gully) 150 m along inclined ledges with trees, small inner corners. Direction of movement is right and up, the trail is well-trodden. Insurance point – at the tree at the base of the gully. If the climb is done in spring or summer, this tree is distinguished by its bright green foliage and serves as a good landmark. R4–R5. From the tree to the right onto a ledge. From the ledge through a steep wall slightly left and then up through cracks to a horizontal ledge with a tree – 30 m. R5–R6. To the right around the bend and through a crack and slabs to an overhanging boulder, under it traverse right with an exit to a large ledge with a tree; 30 m. R6–R7. From the ledge through an inner corner under a cornice – 12–15 m. The cornice is bypassed on the right through a crack with difficult climbing and an exit to a tree; 30 m. R7–R8. Through an inner corner 10–15 m, then to the right along a ledge under a smooth 3-meter face. The face is passed with the help of a ladder. Through the inner corner above the face – a simple exit to the summit. Required equipment: rope – 35–40 m; nuts – 7–8 pcs.; ladder – 1 pc. KUSH-KAYA via chimney (through the gully) 3A category. img-1.jpeg

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