Ascent Passport
I. Type: Rock climbing II. Region: Crimea, Batiliman III. Summit: Kush-Kaya IV. Route: Via the Southwest wall and Southwest ridge through the "gorge of the bowl" V. Climbing category: 2B VI. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 440 m, length — 600 m, average slope — 47° VII. Protection used: 8 pieces VIII. Duration: 2 hours; descent via trail — 0.5 hours IX. Ascent leader: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports Participant: Denisenko Aleksandr Ivanovich, 2nd sports category X. Coach: Kaver Igor Kirillovich XI. Ascent completed: January 7, 1995 XII. Organization: Alpinist club "Sevastopol" First ascent — November 6, 1972. G. Starikov, D. Denisov (MHTU)
Kush-Kaya via the Southwest wall and Southwest ridge through the "gorge of the bowl", 2B category
Approach from the left of the "Africa" wall via a couloir 140 m up to the right part of the gray wall, under the yellow rocks. R1–R2. Start up the broken yellow rocks 18 m, then left through two trees to a ledge and along it 30 m left to a tree. Then right and up via ledges 130–150 m to the base of a chimney in the gorge of the bowl. Insurance point at a tree. R2–R3. Climb on the right side of the chimney, bypassing the plug via slightly broken rocks, and after 30 m move left into the chimney, then about 15 m to a tree. R3–R4. From the tree, 10 m up to the right wall of the chimney, then via a couloir overgrown with sloe, exit into the bowl. Across the slabs of the bowl, with a slope of up to 50°, following the blue arrow marking, about 100 m to a level slightly above the gap in the Southwest ridge. Via cracks-ledges overgrown with grass, exit onto the Southwest ridge. R4–R5. Along the ridge 70–80 m to a large terrace. R5–R6. From it, a gentle wall with good holds leads 20–25 m to a tree. From the tree, left and via cracks 35–40 m to a large ledge under the next "hat". From the ledge, climb "on detachment" onto the "hat", then right and up onto a sloping feature and along it to its end 30–40 m. R6–R7. Traverse left 7 m across a smooth slab, then 25–30 m through two trees up and via a feature exit onto simple rocks, which after 25 m lead to the summit. Central variation: Straight up under the cornice and bypass it on the left via an internal corner 50 m to the summit. Right variation: 20 m right across smooth slabs overgrown with grass, then up onto slightly broken steep rocks, traverse right to a sloping internal corner and via it to the summit.
Required equipment:
- rope — 40 m
- protection — 7–8 pieces
