Maly Kilsе-Burun — 5B
The description was compiled by: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odesa "Three Cornices" route by Yuriy Lishaev 5B, VI, A2, 220 m
The route starts from the left part of the "mould", 30–40 meters to the left of "Kop'e" ("German")
R0–R1
- Up the wall with sharp holds, to a belay bolt 5–7 meters
- From the belay bolt traverse right to a crack
- Climb up the crack 10 m
- Then up a vertical slab with belay bolts A1, it's possible to
climb
Maly Kilsе "Three Cornices" 6A
free climb 10 m. From the last belay bolt, move left to the inner corner formed by an overhang and the wall (skyhook), then up and left along the corner (small and medium nuts) 10 m towards the belay bolts. Then up, on the belay bolts, from the last one — a difficult climb up, passing a small overhang, to the station.
- 50 m
- 85°
- VI
- A2 R1–R2
From the station, a difficult traverse 5 m to the right, then up a discontinuous crack 15 m, partly climbing, partly aid climbing (runners, nuts, 2 belay bolts). Then up the inner corner to the left to reach a sloping ledge. Station.
- 40 m
- 75°
- VI
- A2 R2–R3
From the station, along the ledge to the right and up the inner corner 10 m, under an overhang. Then up a hanging inner corner on aid climbing, 4 belay bolts, in the upper part — nuts. 10 m, then up a crack by free climbing to the station.
- 25 m
- 95°
- VI
- A2 R3–R4
From the station up, under the cornice, traverse left under the cornice 7–10 m, then up and right through an overhang, under the 2nd cornice. The cornice is passed via a crack in the left part (friends, medium and large stoppers). Station 5 meters behind the cornice.
- 30 m
- 85°
- VI
- A2 R4–R5
From the station up, a difficult climb 10 m, through an overhang to enter an inner corner (nuts, friends). Then up the corner, after 15 meters exit to simple but crumbling rocks.
- 25 m
- 80°
- VI
- R5–R6
Then up a crumbling inner corner to the yayla.
- 50 m
- 60°
- II
Variation:
R3–R4' From the station up and right, along a hanging inner corner 15 m, then up a crack to the base of a large chimney. Station.
- 25 m
- 85°
- VI
- A2
R4'–R5'
Up the chimney with a difficult climb, protection — friends, to exit onto a ledge.
- 50 m
- 80°
- VI
R5'–R6'
Then up the inner corner to the summit. 50 m, 70°, IV. The variation is rarely climbed, although it is no less interesting than the main route.