The Summit!

Strong wind. Fog is approaching, visibility is poor, so it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Bivouacs:

• №3
• №4 The first overnight stay here is very bad. I shelter from the wind by burrowing into the snow. In the morning, the weather did not improve. Visibility is almost zero. I dig a good snow cave and arrange a "day of rest". The next day, the weather is the same. But I must descend. Near the bivouac, I fall into a small crevasse. Progress along the ridge requires great effort due to:
• strong wind,
• poor visibility.

TIMING OF THE ROUTE: START: March 24, 1992 END: August 13, 1992 TEAM: PHIL THORNHILL, GREAT BRITAIN — SOLO. A. Start of the route. 2 hours B. Dawn. I quickly traverse the slope on easy terrain to bypass the icefall line. This traverse takes just under 1 hour. C. First technical difficulty:

• Loose, shallow snow on rocks.
• I have to pull my backpack behind me. D. Camp #1.

Ascent Passport

1: Ascent category — high-altitude 2: Ascent region — North-West Pamir, Moskvina 3: Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations — east-east face of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m 4: Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1900 m, average steepness (before reaching the ridge) — 50°, length of difficult sections — 423 m 5. Number of pitons used: rock — 51 pcs., ice — 6 pcs., bolted 6. Total climbing hours — 34 h 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — five; three semi-reclining, two reclining. 8. Team name — Armed Forces of the USSR.

Peak Kirova (6372 m)

Group Composition:

Surname, First Name, Patronymic	Sport Rank	Year of Birth	Party Membership	Nationality	Sport Experience and Instructor Rank
KONKOV Mikhail Petrovich	МСМК	1937	чл. КПСС	русск.	since 1955 ст. инструктор
GUSEV Viktor Sergeevich	КМС	1940	б/п	русск.	since 1964 мл. инструктор
CHERNOBELSKY Iosif Vladimirovich	КМС	1944	б/п	еврей	since 1961 мл. инструктор
CHERNOBELSKAYA Valentina Alexandrovna	КМС	1943	б/п	русск.	since 1963 мл. инструктор
Nosov Anatoly Pavlovich	КМС	1936	б/п	русск.	since 1956 звания нет
The route to Peak Kirova (6372 m) via the central counterfort of the Western wall, ascended by the group of the Bashkir expedition, consists of characteristic sections that can be classified as follows:

USSR Climbing Federation

USSR Climbing Championship, 1970

Kirova Peak via the west face (6371 m) Protocol No. 318 dated October 3, 1970. Category 5B, first ascent. DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF "AVANGARD" SPORTS ORGANIZATION Donetsk, 1970

70 Б13

GEORGIAN ALPINE CLUB
named after A. DJAPARIDZE ASCENT TO PEAK EVGENY KORZHENEVSKY (7105 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE
REPORT Tbilisi — 1973
Team Leader: D. Dangadze Peak E. Korzhenevsky (7105 m) massif.

14

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Glavlengradstroy

First Ascent

Report №259 dated 27/1-67 SA Leningrad 1965 LOS DSO "Burevestnik" Peak 5,730, "Pik Glavlengradstroy," is located in the massif of Pik Evgenii Korzhenevskoi along its north-northeast ridge. This ridge directly branches off from the 6,787-meter summit and divides the upper part of the Kara-Sel valley into two sections, which flow into the Muk-Su river valley.

August 5, 1949

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical;
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route — Traverse of p. Kirova (6372 m) — p. Khokhlova (6701 m) — p. Kommunizma (7495 m) with ascent from Walter Glacier via the East Ridge;
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3400 m, length of sections of 1st difficulty category – 1500 m, 2nd difficulty category – 1900 m, 3rd difficulty category – 6680 m, 4th difficulty category – 2200 m, 5th difficulty category – 120 m, average steepness — 30°;
6. Pitons hammered: for creating ITO — none; for belaying — of which rock — 24, ice — 28, bolt — none;
7. Number of travel hours — 38;
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 3 nights, lying down;
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Class of ascents — high-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascent — North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Kirova, 6371 m, along the Eastern ridge from Walter Glacier.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B cat. diff.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference 6371–4200 = 2171 m, average steepness — 50°, length of sections: R2 — none, R3 — 800 m, R4 — 1000 m, R5 — 700 m, R6 — none.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay: rock — 44