25. Syltran via the East Ridge (Route 1B cat.). The path from the settlement of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac by Syltrangel Lake is described in Route 22. From the bivouac by the lake, ascend along the right bank of the stream to the exit onto a small unnamed glacier flowing down the northern slopes of the East Ridge of Syltran peak to Syltrangel Lake. Walk up the glacier towards a solitary rock among the scree slopes descending from the East Ridge of Syltran. To the right of the rock, via a scree-filled couloir (rockfall hazard!), ascend to the East Ridge of Syltran. From the lake, 3–4 hours. Here, turn right and ascend over snowfields, then over scree and heavily broken simple rocks of the East Ridge. Traverse large rock towers - gendarmes on the left (with protection!). Further, over scree and simple rocks of the ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Syltran. From the col, 2–2.5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days. “Baksan Valley”, A. F. Naumov

27. Terskolak via the Western Ridge (Category I, route 1B, Figs. 2, 7). The path from Terskol village to the end of the moraine is described in Route 26. From here, turn right and ascend up-left along the grassy slope and scree to the saddle of the Western Ridge of Terskolak peak. From the saddle, turn right and ascend along the simple rocks of the ridge:

• Traverse the 1st gendarme along the simple rocks of the destroyed ridge. There is a cairn on the gendarme.
• Descend from the gendarme along the simple rocky ridge to the connecting ridge under the 2nd gendarme.
• From the connecting ridge, ascend 30 m along simple smooth rocks to the first ascent of the 2nd gendarme.
• Then, ascend along rocks of moderate difficulty with a 3-meter wall to the 2nd gendarme.
• From it, a simple descent to the connecting ridge under the 3rd gendarme.
• From here, ascend 40 m along the simple rocks of the ridge and reach the foot of the rocky ascent of the 3rd gendarme.
• Bypass the ascent on the left via wide ledges and destroyed rocks (belay!).

THE GROUP'S ROUTE ALONG THE NORTH. SLOPE AND WEST. RIDGE. ROUTE ALONG THE WEST. RIDGE CATEGORY 1B difficulty. GENERAL PHOTO OF THE SUMMIT. (Taken on December 15, 2015 from the ridge between the observatory and the 105th checkpoint)

Route Description

to the summit of "Bezыmannaya" via the southern ridge from the southwest or Gumači pass, category 2A The summit "Bezыmannaya" is located in the upper Adyl-Su valley between the summits Gumači and Chetchat. The ridges of Bezыmannaya consist of simple destroyed rocks alternating with scree and individual snow-ice sections. The described route (traverse) from southwest to northwest was completed on August 6, 1974, by a training and sports group of the All-Union School of Instructors of Mountaineering under the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions in the following composition:

• I. Naydovich B.V. — leader.
• 2. Starikov G.A.
• 3. Sinelshchikov G.A. The route is evaluated by the group as category 2A. From the "Elbrus" base camp, the path lies along the road to the "Jantugan" base camp, then along the trail on the left bank of the Adyl-Su River to a stone bridge, across which you should cross to its right bank. Further along the trail — to the "Green Hotel" clearing. From the "Elbrus" base camp — 3.5 hours. From the "Green Hotel", go up along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of the Jan-Kuat glacier to the sites at its end ( bivouac "Sneznyy" or "Snowy"). There are two options for reaching the southern ridge of Bezыmannaya.

212. Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy via the North Ridge (Category 1B, L. Zanilov, D. Kuzminsky, August 30, 1962, Fig. 38). The path from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac under the terminal moraine in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, ascend the terraces and slopes on the left bank of the Sakashil River, gradually turning left and traversing the slope up to the left to reach the clearly visible saddle on the North Ridge of Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the bivouac, 1-1.5 hours. From the saddle, turn right and, bypassing a small gendarme on the left, reach the ridge. From here, ascend the wide, gentle ridge, then a rocky ascent to an inclined 15-meter slab with a crack in the upper part. After passing the slab, move up 4-5 meters on simple but steep rocks to the gentle part of the ridge. On the gentle ridge, reach the second 20-meter inclined slab, which is climbed directly. Further, on a rocky ascent, bypassing a protruding sheer angle on the left, on an inner corner and on a 30-meter crack, ascend to the gentle pre-summit ridge. On simple rocks of the ridge and a 4-5-meter ascent, climb to Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the initial bivouac, 4.5-5 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days.

Ushba Malaya (174) 4200 m, cat. diff., k, via 233 ridge

From the AUSB "Elbrus" along the Shkheldinsky valley to the Ushba icefall and further to the Ushba plateau. From the saddle between Bolshaya and Malaya Ushba, approach the start of the route via snow. The route starts to the right of the double couloir. The landmark is a snow-covered vertical chimney that ends with a "finger" clearly visible on the ridge. Climb up an 8-meter wall with a steepness of 85° and few holds, using piton belay (difficult climbing). From this point, traverse right under an overhanging red wall (20 m) along an inclined grey ledge. Then, climb straight up a 5-meter vertical wall and make a pendulum traverse to a vertical chimney. Climb straight up the chimney (piton belay, difficult climbing, rime ice) — 40 m. The chimney leads to the beginning of the shoulder on the western ridge. At the exit to the shoulder — on the "finger" — there's a control cairn. Further along the ridge, traverse snow-covered rocks of medium difficulty with variable belay (no выступы) — exit to the summit (7 ropes). From the plateau to the summit: 5–6 hours. The descent via route 2B cat. diff. is described in Naumov's book "Baksan Valley". Leader: N.N. Kiyantsia.

Yu­da Ma­ras

250. Ushba Severnaya via the South ridge from the east (combined route, D. Kokkin, cat. 4A, fig. 32, 36, 37). From beneath the Southeast edge of Ushba Severnaya peak (route 249) traverse up-left to reach a cirque beneath overhanging cliffs - the Kokkin bivouac. From the Gulskie ploshchadki 4-6 hrs. From here, move along the edge of ice and rock. From a large crevasse, it is easier to reach the middle part of the glacier and from there (avalanches) 400-500 m up to the saddle (cornice). From the Kokkin bivouac 3-8 hrs. Here, turn right and follow the snowy ridge of the saddle (cornices), pass the North gendarme head-on or bypass it on the right, and reach the rocky areas at the base of the North ridge of Ushba Severnaya peak, located to the left of the approaching snowy ridge of the saddle. From the area 30-40 m up-left onto the South ridge. Over simple and moderately difficult, ruined, snow-covered rocks of the 300-350-meter South ridge ascend to Ushba Severnaya peak. From the saddle 2-4 hrs. From the saddle, it is possible to ascend along the snowy ridge, then along the snowy-icy slope on the right side of the South ridge.

264. Ushba South via the center of the Northwest wall (combined route, Yu. Grigorenko - Prigoda, cat. 5B, fig. 32, 37, 38). From the initial bivouac in the cirque of the southeastern branch of the Ushbinsky glacier, under the western ridge of Ushba South (point 259), approach the right side of the lower rock belt. From the glacier, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, then 150–200 m of very difficult rocks (aid, exposed) on the right side of the lower belt, left of a large corner, to reach the Georgian shelf. From the initial bivouac, 8–10 hours. I. Marr's group exited onto the shelf from the right, where it descends almost to the ice-and-snow slope of the southeastern branch. Along the steep snowy slabs of the Georgian shelf, make a difficult traverse 300–350 m up and left, crossing numerous ice gullies (avalanches, stones). Ascend 120 m up and left on steep rocks of medium and above medium difficulty to a platform at the end of the Georgian shelf - the upper part of the Lower rock belt. Bivouac. From the initial bivouac, 8–14 hours. From the platform, along a steep 80–90-meter ridge of the Lower ice-and-snow slope, approach the left side of the base of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt of the Northwest wall. Along a steep, difficult, interrupted ledge-corner of the Central bastion, 120 m up and right, under overhanging rocks. Through a crack in the overhanging rocks, 8 m up (aid, leaning) under a large corner. On the right side of the corner, a very difficult ascent 60–80 m (aid, leaning) onto a shelf, then through a crack and wall into a niche. Further, 70 m up a very difficult (aid, leaning) vertical corner, bypassing overhanging rocks on the left, to a small platform. Sitting bivouac. From the Georgian shelf, 10–12 hours. From the shelf, along steep, smoothed, iced rocks, a difficult ascent 40 m (aid, leaning) to the top of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt. From the Central bastion:

Description of the route to Tsalichnil peak via the Southwest ridge, category 3A. The height of the peak is 3992 m.

From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, running along the left (orographic) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross the bridge over the Kvish River and start ascending along the left (orographic) bank of the Kvish to the left lateral moraine. In the upper part of the moraine, there are areas for overnight stays. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel), under the slopes of Leyrag peak, we make our way to the plateau below the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging,