Pass to the Tsey Gorge. CLIMBERS' RECOMMENDATIONS:

1. Number of participants — 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac — plateau on the northern circus below the Krasnoarmeyets peak.
3. Departure time from bivouac — 2–3 am.
4. Special equipment: a) main rope 40 m — for a rope team of 2 people; b) auxiliary rope — 40 m; c) expendable rope — 10 m; d) rock pitons — 12–15 pieces;

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Proposed category difficulty: 2B
4. Summit: peak Oniani 4200 m via Eastern ridge
5. Elevation gain: 1000 m Average slope: 30–40°
6. Number of pitons: 1
7. Total climbing hours: 10 h

ASCENT PASSPORT I. Climbing category: technical 2. Climbing area: Caucasus (2.7 from Gurdzyvcek Pass to Mamisson Pass), p. Passionarii 4000 m, via West wall of the bastion and Northwest ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 940 m Length of sections with 5th-6th cat. diff.: 290 m Average steepness: 42° 6. Pitons driven:

107. Skatikom via the Southwest Ridge

(combined route, 5A category of difficulty)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — CAUCASUS, Tsey ridge.
3. Peak UILPATA, 4646 m, via the South ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Length — 1409 m.

148

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Ullarg (4320 m) via the North face, accomplished by the team from the "Tsey" alpine camp from August 4 to 9, 1968 USSR Alpine Championship 1968. Technical ascents category Moscow, 1968 Fig. 1. The North face of Ullarg summit. (Taken from the upper reaches of Songuti glacier on August 5, 1968)

Team Composition

Captain:

163. Ular­g — Songuti (combined route by R. Andreev, cat. 4B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ular­g via the East ridge is described in route 143. From the summit of Ular­g, descend along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge ("live" stones) towards Pik Komsomolets. Then descend left along the snowy couloir to a snowy saddle and along it (cornice) approach Pik Komsomolets. From the saddle:

• along the ice-snow ridge,
• then along simple rocks — ascend to Pik Komsomolets. From Pik Komsomolets:
• along simple rocks,
• then along the snowy ridge — descend to the snowy saddle. Along the saddle (cornices) approach the Black Gendarme. Traverse the Black Gendarme from the right along a steep ice-snow slope for 65–70 m along the rocks (pitons), then 100–120 m along steep rocks.

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Caucasus, from Gurdzivtseck pass to Mamison pass
3. Khitsan-khokh peak, height 3500 m, via the spur of the North-West ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 300 m. Route length 745 m, including sections of 3rd diff. cat. — 155 m, sections of 4th diff. cat. — 300 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
2. Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
3. Difficulty category: 5B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route: