¹

1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab:

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8

Dzhalyk via the North Face (M. Suponitsky's route, 5A cat. diff.) Initial bivouac — at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the upper snow plateau of the Tytju glacier opposite the North Face of Dzhalyk peak. From the bivouac:

• Across Tytju glacier, having passed the icefall, approach the left side of the steep ice-and-snow slope of the North Face of Dzhalyk peak.
• From the glacier, on the left side of this slope, ascend 100 m to the right side of the lower rock island of the North Face.
• Across simple snow-covered and ruined rocks of the island, 90–100 m straight up.
  • The island can be bypassed on the right across the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches, rockfall).
• From the island, across a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope, to the right of the rocks, ascend to a snow bowl beneath an overhanging rock wall.
  • Bivouac in the bowl.
  • From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.

Jailyk via NW buttress (K. Tolstov's route, cat. 5A) The routes along the NW buttress and N wall start from the Tyutyusu gorge, which explains their low traffic; however, for winter conditions, the routes on the northern aspect of Jailyk are more preferable due to the possibility to ascend almost entirely on ice. Approach and Bivouac

• The initial bivouac is located at the end of the left-bank moraine or on the snowy plateau of the Tyutyu glacier — opposite the North wall of Jailyk peak.
• From the bivouac, ascend along the glacier, then along a 60-meter ice-and-snow slope to approach the left side of the wide rocky Lower Island to the right of the North wall of Jailyk peak. Ascent to the Lower Rocky Island
• From the slope, to the right of the avalanche cone, ascend straight up through difficult rocks of a vertical 10–12-meter corner, a 4-meter chimney, and steep 10-meter rocks of medium difficulty onto a ledge.
• From the ledge, ascend 100–120 m along steep, crumbling rocks of medium difficulty, alternating with small walls, under a 40–50-meter wall.
• Ascend a difficult chimney up and to the right onto a ledge.
• From the ledge, ascend up and to the left along smooth, higher — crumbling rocks of the wall and exit from it onto a weakly expressed ridge.

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge.
3. To Jailyk via the South ridge.
4. Category 5A.
5. Route length 803 m. Steepness of the main part of the route (wall) — 90 (R6–R15).
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Nut | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 34/5X | 22/4X | 0/0 |

Dzhailyk via Western Ridge (V. Ruzhevsky route, 5A cat.) The route is sometimes called “Women's Five” or “Dombay Five”, implying easy dry rocks (up to cat. V) that can be realistically climbed in a day even by women. We have a good opinion about women climbers, as this route is not that easy; moreover, in bad weather it becomes virtually impassable, unlike “Monakh”.

• A bivouac can be set up at “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” (Upper Kichkidar Camps) or on the saddle below Donkin Pass.
• From the Western Yunom Glacier, move from the bivouac to the base of the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via the avalanche debris and ice-snow slope of the Central couloir, along the rocks on the left side, approach the first inner corner at the base of the Western Ridge.
• From “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki” it takes about 1 hour. From here:
• Up the moderately difficult 30-meter inner corner, then via smoothed steep 40–50-meter slabs ascend to the Western Ridge of Dzhailyk peak.
• Via monolithic steep slabs of above-average difficulty with short difficult walls on the Western Ridge, ascend 200–250 m to the Lower Triangle summit plateau.
• From the plateau, 50–60 m up a steep smoothed slab of above-average difficulty, then 30 m up a wall with a chimney-crack to a rock outcrop.

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |