PASSPORT

  1. Technical class.
  2. Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge.
  3. To Jailyk via the South ridge.
  4. Category 5A.
  5. Route length 803 m. Steepness of the main part of the route (wall) — 90 (R6–R15).
  6. Pitons hammered:
RockNutIce
34/5X22/4X0/0

X — previously hammered pitons were used.

  1. The team was delayed on the route for 22 hours.

  2. 2 overnight stays in a tent near the "Monk" gendarme.

  3. Leader: Judita Burokaite, Vitautovna — 1st sports category.

    Team members:

    • Jūratė Baerenė, Genrikovna — 1st sports category
    • Gaila Neverauskienė, Alfonsovna — 1st sports category
    • Rūta Kripaitytė, Povilovna — 1st sports category
    • Eugenija Čiarkauskaitė, Petrovna — 1st sports category
  4. Coach: Nikolai Klochkov, Vasil'evich — category 2 instructor.

  5. The ascent began: July 19, 1988.

    On the summit: July 20, 1988. The team returned: July 22, 1988.

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Mt. Jailyk

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WALL PROFILE

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Route details by sections

SectionLength (m)Steepness (°)CategoryRock pitonsNutIce pitons
R18250 mII+32
R1740 m50II4
R1690 m5–10I+2
R1510 m45II+2
R144 m90IV3
R135 m95III
R122.5 m9044
R115 m85VI11
R102 m70I+1
R92 m90I–1
R87 m95III22
R710 m90I+22
R65 m85I–11
"Monk" gendarme
R5100 m35II22
R47 m80IV11
R355 m40III2
R26 m80III+2
R180 m50I+42
R0100 m35I

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Jailyk

  1. Jailyk via the West ridge, category 4B.
  2. Jailyk via the Central couloir, category 3B.
  3. Jailyk via the West ridge, category 5A.
  4. Jailyk via the 1st southern bastion of the West ridge, category 5B.
  5. Jailyk via the 2nd southern bastion of the West ridge, category 5B.
  6. Jailyk via the West wall of the South shoulder of the South ridge, category 5B.
  7. Jailyk via the South ridge, category 5A.

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Attached files

Sources

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