Brief explanations for the table

Section R0–R1. In the lower part of the couloir, the main slope is covered with dense snow; in the upper part, it's a snow-covered ice slope. The snow holds well; insurance is provided through an ice axe. Section R1–R2. The first bastion is traversed along an icy, snow-covered ledge; insurance is provided through pitons; climbing is of medium difficulty. Sections R2–R3, R3–R4:

• Upwards to the right, a steep, icy slab with a gap in the middle
• Climbing is very difficult, relying on friction (there are very few holds)
• Insurance is provided through pitons; there are few cracks for piton placement Section R4–R5. A system of main snow-covered and icy ledges and "ram's foreheads." Movement is straight up towards the base of a destroyed counterfort (start of the second bastion). Section R5–R6. Up the right part of the counterfort directly under the yellow wall of the second bastion, along steep, destroyed rocks and a cleft. Climbing is difficult; in the middle part of the counterfort, on a small platform, is the I control point. Section R6–R7. Monolithic sections of the wall are interspersed with "tiled" rock formations. The section is traversed:

Ii a c ii o p­t

ASCENT PERFORMED FOR THE PRIMACY OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE SPORTS SOCIETY "SPARTAK" IN ALPINISM IN 1976 I. Class of ascent — technically difficult. 2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains. 3. Ascent route — via the South wall of Chimtargra peak 5494 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 75°, length of difficult sections 920 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 169 wooden wedges — 9 6. Number of climbing hours — 45

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PUSHNOVAT-1 PEAK FROM PUSHNOVAT SADDLE (ORIENTED 3A)

Pushnovat-1 peak (4573 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Pushnovat River, a tributary of the Archa-Maydan River, in the ridge that runs north from the Dukdon pass to the Sugar Head peak. Pushnovat-1 peak is one of the peaks of the Pushnovat cirque (see diagram). The peak is almost completely covered in snow and ice. Rocks are cleared of ice only at the highest points and on sheer walls. The snow line is at an altitude of 4000 m above sea level. The glacier is generally without crevasses. Two major crevasses are encountered on the route. There is snow on the glacier only after the second bergschrund near the exit to the summit. The rocks are monolithic. No significant destruction is noticeable. There are very few cracks for pitons. The most logical path to the summit is from the Pushnovat saddle, located in the ridge between the Pushnovat pass and Pushnovat-1 peak. The approach to the peak is along the Archa-Maydan River, on a good trail, then up the Pushnovat River. The base camp is above the confluence of the Sugar River with the Pushnovat River, near a large boulder (3360 m). Further on the trail leading to the Pushnovat pass, to the couloir to the Pushnovat saddle, the couloir is filled with snow. Steepness is 30–35°. Height 4200 m. From the saddle, a rise to the south along the snow-ice ridge to a group of rocks (4270 m), forming a gentle platform. The platform is convenient for a tent. From here, you can ascend all four Pushnovat peaks. The ascent can be divided into three stages:

Simultaneously: from the re-roping point, move towards the summit along a small snow patch (1.5–2 ropes) to reach the base of the rocky ascent. Climb monolithic boulders and the frozen crack beneath it to the summit of the rocky ascent. Then, traverse the ridge, during which the first mandarin is bypassed on the left through rocks, a snow patch, and a slab with a crack (2 ropes, difficult climbing). Then, exit to the 4th mandarin (1 rope) on a crack on the left, and from it, descend 10 m under the wall of the summit tower. Ascent up the wall through a snowy-icy inner corner:

• straight up 15 m,
• hook belay. Then, exit left to a platform. From it, move right along a vaguely defined snowy gully (steepness 50°) — 45 m (belay through protrusions). Exit right to a platform, and from it — to a snowy-icy slope with a steepness of 50° (1.5 ropes) and further along slopes of medium difficulty (15 m) — to the ridge. Along the ridge for 30 m, then:
• 10 m up the wall,
• move left — up (25–30 m) along the left side of the wall (hook belay),
• another 10 m ascent through snow — and exit to the summit. The entire route takes 9–10 hours. Descent is via the couloir; ascent is up the wall, then down the couloir. In the upper part of the couloir, there is ice (2 ropes).

The edge formation rests against a 40° snow-ice slope. After 8–10 m there is a large rock, where it is convenient to organize an insurance and hang a rope. Up to this point, starting from the triangular wall, it goes without a backpack. After a large rock, the ascent takes 10–15 minutes and follows a snow-ice slope with rocky inclusions to a gentle part of the edge. From here, along the ascending edge, which breaks off steeply to the north for about 200 m, it leads to a snowy shoulder under the summit. From it, along the snow-ice slope from the western side, there is an ascent to the summit of the peak. From under the triangular wall - 5 hours. The descent from the summit to the pass follows the ascent route, with the organization of 5 forty-meter "rappels" and takes 7 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical (4251–5250)
2. Ascent area: Turkestan Range, Aksu valley
3. Peak: p. 4660 (Badygin) via North slope
4. Category of complexity: 4A
5. Route character: snow-ice

• Height difference — 760 m
• Average steepness — 51°
• Section length:
  • R4 — 310 m

1.2.25

Climbing Passport No. 2

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Karatash peak, via the North-West couloir of the North face.
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. The route is ice and snow.
5. Height difference 1000 m, Length 1500 m, Average slope 45°.
6. Pitons hammered in: ice — 6.

Passport

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
2. p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
3. Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
4. Hooks left — 0 pcs.
5. Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
6. Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:

• Kulishova Alena Maratovna
• Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
• Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich