7. Traversing the Kostan-krest ridge from Pik Mira to Tютюнбаши with an ascent to Pik Mira via the Northern counterfort - 4B category of difficulty (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, and V. Shutov - July 22-24, 1961; Fig. 36). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to Pik Mira is described in route 106. From Pik Mira, descend west along a 150-180-meter sharp snowy ridge (cornices!) and 80-meter steep rocks (sporting descent) to the saddle between Pik Mira and Truda. From the saddle, traverse 200-250 meters along a heavily jagged rocky-snowy ridge (cornices!) with 3-5-meter rocky and small snowy gendarmes, which are overcome along the ridge. After a 7-10-meter drop, ascend along a sharp snowy ridge, then along a slope that transitions into a 60-80-meter sharp snowy ridge with small rocky outcrops over 150-200 meters. Continue along rocks of medium difficulty and a snowy ridge to ascend to Pik Truda. From Pik Truda:

• descend 25-30 meters along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then ascend to a small gendarme,
• from it, make a 40-meter sporting descent to a saddle. Further:
• traverse along rocks of medium difficulty with many small gendarmes, which are bypassed along shelves or overcome directly along 2-5-meter walls and 35-meter slabs (hook!) - descend into a drop. In the drop - a bivouac. From the Truda pass - 10-12 hours. From the drop:

Orta-Kara (4250 m) via NE ridge — Category 2A

From the Besengi alpine camp to Kель Pass, where the night's stay is. Depart from the bivouac for the summit at 3–4 am. The start of the route coincides with the start of the route to Салынан via the 3rd ridge. You need to descend to the plateau and head towards the saddle between the peaks Салынан and Орта-Кара. Follow the wide snowy couloir leading to this saddle, keeping to the left (in the direction of travel) side, and then to the left branch, exiting onto the saddle. The further path along the ridge is to the left. The ridge is initially snowy and not steep. Move along the right (north) side of the ridge, then along the ridge. The snowy ridge gives way to rocky terrain. The rock is straightforward, but there are many loose stones. The last gendarme — the subpeak — is bypassed on the left via ledges. After the saddle, ascend to the summit via simple but heavily broken rock. From the ridge to the summit takes 3–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route to Кель Pass and back to the camp.

159. Orto­kara via the North Ridge

(combined route, category 2B, fig. 14, 17). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people) to the upper plateau of the Shaurtu glacier under the northern slopes of Orto­kara with a starting bivouac at the end of the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Shaurtu glacier is described in route 154. Cross the glacier plateau to the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Orto­kara. From the glacier, pass through the bergschrund snow bridge and ascend the snowy slope to the ice-and-snow North Ridge of Orto­kara. Along the left side of the North Ridge, approach the first 40-50-meter rock outcrop. Pass the outcrop via simple rocks on the left. Then, along the left side of the steep and sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge, ascend 250-300 m

Panoramnaya Peak via North wall — Cat. 4B The path from the “Bezengi” base camp to the first stage of the Mizhirgi icefall can be seen in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass. 70 m ascent up a steep firn slope from the bergschrund. The rocky cape is bypassed on the left on the ice, then 35 m on simple rocks to the right – exit to the site of this cape. From the site 70 m up the stepped (destroyed) rocks. 50 m traverse left under the steep wall, then 3 m up the plate. From here 50 m to the right, then ascent on the plates to the sites of the lower rocky belt. From the sites up the ice-snow slope to under the rocky island. Traverse under it left-up to a steep ice shelf and fully up-right, then up a 3-meter icy vertical groove. Further up 60–70 m on a steep bowl-shaped ice slope (belay!) and on 50 m snowy rocks of medium difficulty – exit to the site in the upper part of the island. There is a control tour on the sites. From the site 100–120 m up the ice-snow slope to the light-brown wall of the North buttress of the Utës spire. 20 m right under the wall. Then up a 4–5 m chimney and 120–130 m on snowy, destroyed tile-like rocks of medium difficulty of the buttress. The 4-meter rocky ascent of the buttress is passed on the right side of the inner corner (belay!). And on the snow-ice slope left of the rocky ridge ascent under the second ascent. 10 m to the right under the ascent and up a 10–12-meter cleft up-left (piton!). 60–70 m up-left from the ascent on a steep snow-ice slope and snowy ridge – exit to the saddle between the Utës spire and Panoramnaya Peak. From the saddle left, on the snowy ridge (cornices!) and on simple rocks ascent to Panoramnaya Peak. 8–12 hours from the glacier to the summit.

154. Ascent via the Northeast Ridge (combined route by N. Chekmarev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 14, 16, 17).

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the upper plateau of the Salynan glacier with the initial bivouac on the talus above the glacier's tongue is described in route 152. Approach the saddle of the Salynan pass via the upper plateau. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge
• Ascend 300-350 m up a steep left or right ice-snow couloir (possible avalanches, protection required)
• Reach the platform on the ridge connecting the Northeast ridge of Salynan peak Reach the saddle of the Salynan pass. The initial bivouac is on the ridge or the pass. From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, it takes 8-10 hours. The path from the "Chegem" tourist base to the areas at the end of the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the

155. Salynan via the East Ridge

(route is combined, category IIIB, fig. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Salynan Glacier is described in route 152. Approach the right side of the wide steep ice-and-snow slope via the plateau, descending from the East Ridge saddle to the left of a wide steep ice-and-snow gully with avalanche deposits. From the glacier:

• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge,
• ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope to the right side of the lower rock cape,

Peak Semenovsky 4050 m via the South Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty

From the Dzhangi-Kosh Hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of the 4050 peak, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050 m, 1–1.5 hours from the hut. Cross the cirque to the left in its lower part and ascend via the fine reddish talus or outcrops of broken rocks onto the S. ridge. To the right of the ridge, move up with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops, crossing snowfields, to the pre-summit rise of the ridge. Traverse along a ledge to the right of the ridge into a snowy gully and up it for 150 m to the NE ridge (ice possible in the upper part of the gully; one can divert to the rocks on the right). Follow the NE ridge leftwards to the summit, 4–5 hours from the hut. Descent follows the ascent route — about 1.5 hours. Hazardous areas:

• ice possible on the ledges of the S. ridge
• ice possible in the pre-summit gully

Peak Semenovsky via the NE ridge, 2A

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of peak 4050, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050, 1–1.5 h from the hut. Ascend via talus and snowfields to the NE edge of the cirque, under the couloir descending from peak 4050. Follow the snow-rock boundary (on the left) up the couloir (watch out for falling rocks on the right) to the saddle on the NE ridge, left of peak 4050. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops (caution: heavily deteriorated rocks) through a series of low "gendarmes", about 1 h. The last "gendarme" is bypassed on the right with piton belay. Then, along a wide snowy ridge with outcrops of deteriorated rocks — a gentle ascent to the summit, 5–6 h from the hut. Descent is via the S ridge, as described earlier. Hazardous places:

• Couloir — prone to rockfall
• Rocky terrain — heavily deteriorated
• Possible ice on the descent from the summit in the couloir and on ledges Special equipment — 3–4 rock pitons.

ROCK peak via N ridge (via Kündüm-Mijirgi pass) Initial bivouac — on the SW spur of Panoramnyi peak (3900 m). Route:

• From the bivouac, cross the left tributary of the glacier and ascend the snowy-icy slope left of the icefall to the cirque of Kündüm-Mijirgi pass.
• Ascend to the ridge via the couloir right of the pass "gendarme" from the bivouac in 1.5–2 hours.
• Along the ridge of sharp slabs, directly to the first "gendarme", then along the ridge below the wall.
• Up and left along the wall for 7–8 m to a ledge (pitons), from it right and up via a crack to the pre-summit ridge.
• Along the ledges right of the ridge for 70–80 m to the summit.
• From the saddle in 1.5–2 hours. Descent: via the ascent route to the bivouac in about 2 hours.

I. Description of the Traverse Route

I. General Description of the Traverse of Ukyu and Gidan-tau Peaks and their Location

In the central part of the Central Caucasus, in the area of the Bezengi valley, north of Koshtan-tau peak, a spur of the Lateral Range extends, with Ullu-auz-bashi peak located in its northern part. Northeast of Ullu-auz-bashi peak lies Dumala-tau peak, opposite which, to the northwest, is a spur with Ukyu and Gidan-tau peaks. The spur with Ukyu and Gidan-tau peaks belongs to the Dumala river valley, which flows into the Cherek Bezengiysky river on the right. (see map) The traverse of Ukyu-Gidan-tau peaks was started from the "Bezengi" alpine camp following the route described in "Ascent to Ukyu peak via the southeastern ridge, category 2B". The further traverse proceeded in a northwest direction to Gidan-tau peak, with a descent along the western ridge of Gidan-tau peak. Having started the route at 4:00 PM on August 6, 1963, the group of 6 people:

1. Minin V.P. - leader, 1st sports category.
2. Mekhannikov V.V., 1st sports category.