Crimea. Mshatka-Kaya "Boomerang" Route, 4A

On June 17, 2012, a group of three people - Gostev Kirill (Yalta), Odoyev Vladimir, and Leontyeva Ekaterina (Sevastopol) - made an ascent to the summit of Mshatka-Kaya via a new route. The route was named "Boomerang" and was estimated to be approximately 3B/4A (classified as 4A). It was done almost a year and a half ago, but it was only recently that the necessary paperwork was completed and the information was shared online. We are sharing the information with you:

• from the ascent passport
• UIAA scheme
• description.

Mshatka-Kaya Peak (650 m), "Boomerang" Route.

Difficulty category: presumably 3B/4A (classified as 4A)

Route Characteristics:

length — 300 m (7 ropes); length of sections:

Mshatka-Kaya — 11

Hi-Res photo of Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" — blue line on the photograph

Mshatka-Kaya "Strelka" (5A)

Author: Aleksandr Lav­ri­nen­ko («Odes­sit»), Odes­sa A well-known route, climbed in the ancient times. Currently, many bolt hanger hooks are in disrepair, but the route is fully passable. You can approach the route from the Filatova contrefort or directly from the road via simple rocks. The route starts from an inner corner leading to the base of the "strelka" (IV+). Then:

• up the crack,
• to the top of the "strelka" (V),

Mshatka-Kaya — 12. «Kaskad»

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: V, A2 Authors: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of creation: 2006 Number of pitches: 9 Length: 370 m The route goes through the center of the wall, crossing a series of ledges, with a logical transition to the left in the upper part. Further, the route coincides with the «Strelka» route. The approach to the route is from the old Yalta road, 200 m to the right of the fork to Baydarskie Vorota; a trail leads to the wall. Follow the trail, then the scree, generally left and up, to approach the lower belt of rocks. Through the rocks of the lower belt, left and up, choosing the optimal path, reach a ledge. Then traverse along the ledges to the left with a slight gain in height.

Miatka-Kaya (618 m) — 24. "Diktat dozhdya" (Rain Dictate), 5B

The route was climbed on March 13-14, 2017, by the team:

• Zagirnyak Mikhail
• Pugachëv Sergey, in 12 hours The approach starts from the observation deck below Foros, going up the trail, and then along simple rocks and trails, traversing to the right in the direction of the "Triangulyatsiya" route. Passing the beginning of the ascent to the "Uho" route, move up to the right, towards a large group of trees under the main wall. The start of the route is on the left side of the wall, on implicit ledges. R0–R1: 40 m, I–II, 50°; When processing or carrying heavy backpacks, the first rope can be hung and a piton station organized 10 m below the large group of pine trees under the wall. Standing by the pine tree under the wall is extremely uncomfortable. Railing Station at R0–R1

Mshatka-Kaya — 17. “Iron Path”

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Complexity: VI A3 Length: 215 m Route description The route goes through the right part of the wall, crossing the right edge of the triangle. Climbed in winter, on snowy rocks. At a temperature below −5 °C. Not repeated. The approach to the route coincides with the approach to the “Triangle on the right”. From the old Yalta road, 200 m to the right of the fork to Baydarskie Vorota, a path leads to the wall. On the path, then on the talus, general direction left — up, approach the lower

Paraguelmen — 2

List of routes to the summit Paraguelmen:

1. Paraguelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and counterfort 1B, II
2. Paraguelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraguelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraguelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraguelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraguelmen via SE edge and center of the wall 3B, V

Route 2

Paraghelmen — 7

List of routes to the summit Paraghelmen:

1. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the spur 1B, II
2. Paraghelmen via the left spur of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraghelmen via the right spur of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V

Route 5

Paragelmination — 7

Route 2B cat. diff.

The route is easily accessible via a trail that goes from the road, oriented by ribbons hanging on trees. The ascent takes approximately 10–12 minutes. The start of the route is to the left of the ridge (do not confuse with the ridge on which route 1 cat. diff. passes — the far left one on the rock). From there, move towards a tree around which an iron rope is wrapped — organize the first belay (I) there. Move beyond the bend — you will come out to a small platform where:

• a "carrot" (morcovka) is fixed

Paraghelmen — 3

List of Routes to the Summit of Paraghelmen:

1. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the counterfort 1B, II
2. Paraghelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraghelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V

Route 3

Sokol — 46

Via the bastion in the eastern part of the southern wall, 1B cat. diff.[№5]

(A. Brynza — S. Brynza, 1994) R0–R2: 60–80 m, 4 hours. Up to the left along an oblique crack to a tree, then along a ledge to an internal corner and up it to the left — exit to the middle of the bastion. Stations on trees. R2–R4: 70–80 m. Simple climbing to the left and up towards the ridge.

• Station R3 on a tree
• Station R4 on the ridge (on a bridge between the ridge and the wall) R4–R5: 35 m. Simple climbing, first 10 m up and to the right to a crack, and then 25 m to the right and up to a tree. R5–R6: 20 m. Traverse 10 m along a ledge to the right to a dry tree, and then up to the left along a crack — exit to a plateau. Station on the plateau.

Recommended equipment: