Arfen-Cher-Burun - 1. "Mirazh" Route 6A, VI, A

First ascenders: S. Streltsov - A. Lyapunov (1992) The section from Sevastopol to Balaklava is a sheer coast, in some places up to 200 m high. The area is heavily eroded. There are no cliffs suitable for climbing. Mt. Arfen-Cher-Burun, East wall. Arrows at the bottom indicate the route start To the east of Balaklava, the picture changes dramatically. About 5 km from Balaklava, along the coast, a 235-meter vertical rocky peak rises straight from the sea. This is a spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun massif. It takes about 40 minutes to reach the foot of the wall by boat from Balaklava. Having a reliable floating craft is mandatory, as the first

Kilse-Burun — 4

Via the center of the fourth counterfort of the western part of the massif (Three Pines), 2B

This route name was chosen by the first ascenders, apparently, because its main part passes through three groups of pines, or maybe they got lost on this simple route — as if between three pines. The approach to the route starts at the same place as route №3, 50 m east of the "36–18" pillar of the old highway. First along the trail, and then simple rocks 100 m up and left to a long sloping terrace. Along it 150 m to the right to the base of the fourth counterfort. On sections R0–R1 and R1–R2, 80 m up simple rocks in the central part of the counterfort to a large shelf with a spreading oak tree. List:

• R0–R1: 40 m, 50°, I
• R1–R2: 40 m, 60°, I On section R2–R3 — 40 m up a long steep gully to a group of pines. This is the most difficult section of the route (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III).

Kilse-Burun — 8.

Center of the central part of the wall (zyablik), 5B (V, 160 m) (by V. Golovey and F. Karpenko, 1978)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend a small scree to a terrace at a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first, climb up an 8-meter vertical internal corner to the start of a long inclined ledge. Then traverse right along the ledge for 35 m to a small platform at the base of a small internal corner (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 35 m, 50°, I). On the R2–R3 section — first, climb 6 m up the left wall of the internal corner, then, crossing the external corner to the left, climb up and left along a long, destroyed groove to a small tree. From it (R3–R4 section) climb up and left along the groove to a large vertical internal corner of Kiga (R2–R3: 40 m, 80°, V+; R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+). There are two options to continue:

• directly up the internal corner of Kiga (coincides with route №8),
• or along the right wall of Kiga. The second option is described below.

Maly Kilse-Burun - 10, Kolya-Tolya route (variant) 3B, F5b (5 m 6a), 160 m In the mountains - alpinist routes of Crimea The route has several passage options. One of them is given below. From the upper road, first follow the trail leading to the Kiev couloir*, and then straight up the scree slope to the wall. Ascend to a rocky ledge under the central part of the wall.

• Kiev couloir — a couloir separating the Zamok and Maly Kilse peaks. Along inclined rocks in the right part of the wall, approach a cleft that leads to a ledge with strawberry trees. Belay station on a bolt with the inscription "8 марта" (March 8th).

Ascent Passport

1. Category: rock climbing
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: via the Southwest wall through the "sole" on the left
5. Category of difficulty: 3B, first ascent
6. Route characteristics: height difference — 440 m, length — 540 m. Average steepness — 54°
7. Equipment used: rock pitons — 5 pcs., nuts — 17 pcs.
8. Duration: 4 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours.
9. Leader: Vorobyov Mikhail Sharpovich CMS, participants: Nesterov Vitold Petrovich 1st category, Pavlov Yuri Dmitrievich CMS

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka — a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Yu. Kruglov. Morcheka - a forgotten mountain. Guidebook. 1999. https://kruglov.biz/about/%D0%BC%D0%BE%D1%80%D1%87%D0%B5%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B1%D1%8B%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%8F-%D0%B3%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D1%83%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C-1999-%D0%B3/

Mshatka-Kaya — Category 16

On the left side of the "triangle" in the eastern part of the massif ("left triangle"), beyond

Between the Central and Eastern bastions, in the upper part of the wall, two long, oblique, intermittent ledges with trees form a large oblique angle, clearly visible from the road, and named the Triangle. The middle part of the route passes along the left ledge, forming the Triangle. From the upper road, 30 m east of the fork to the lower (main) road and the village of Foros, ascend first along the trail, and then up and to the right along the talus and simple rocks to a shrub- and tree-covered inclined terrace, located under the "Triangle". Along it, left and up to a large rusty inner corner (section R0: 100 m, 30–45°, no category; 50 m, 50^{\circ}, category I; 50 m, 30–40°, no category) On section R1–R2 — first 20 m up the sheer corner or its left wall. Then:

• 20 m up the wall to the left of the inner corner;
• 10 m up and left into the next inner corner.

Mshatka-Kaya — 9

Along the left edge of the Central Bastion (“Triangulyatsiya”), 4B (35 m, V)

From the upper highway 50 m east of the alpinist camps under Forosky Kant, ascend up and to the right, first along the trail, and then across simple rocks to the left edge of the Central Bastion (R0: 350 m, 30–45, no category). The sections of the route R1–R5 pass along a wide internal corner situated between the second buttress and the Central Bastion. Initially, ascend along the right side of the internal corner, and then Across steep slabs in its middle part (R1–R3: 70 m, 70°, III+). On the R3–R4 section:

On the right side of the southeast wall, 5A (option 4B)

The route passes on the left side of a wide internal corner, which cuts vertically through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering of the ridge between the peaks of Forossky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and is a conditional boundary between them. The last section of the route, which passes through a sheer wall with two small ledges, is the most difficult. It can be replaced by an ascent along the несложной upper part of the wide internal corner. In this case, the complexity of the route is reduced by half a category (option). From the road, near the alpine camps, 200 m up along the trail, and then 50 m along simple rocks to a grotto located at the base of the internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no tech). On the section R1–R2 — from the grotto up, first on the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. Further (section R2–R3), traverse along the shelf 20 m to the left (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+; 20 m, 70°, II). On the section R3–R5 — up along a steep, smooth wall with a small number of cracks (R3–R5: 30 m, 75°, V+; 50 m, 75°, V). On the section R5–R6 — up and to the right along rocks of medium complexity (R5–R6: 40 m, 70°, III). On the section R6–R7 — up and to the left 20 m along simple rocks to the base of a large vertical internal corner (R6–R7: 20 m, 60°, I). On the last section of the route — up along the left sheer 30-meter wall of the internal corner with two small ledges. The ledges are passed head-on (R7–peak: 30 m, 80°, V+).