ASCENT CERTIFICATE

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Altai, Katunskie Belki.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Belukha V. 4506 m, via the North face through the saddle, ice.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1500 m, length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 214 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 6, ice 55.
7. Number of climbing hours: 12 hours.
8. Overnights — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification:

RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP in ALPINISM ICE-SNOW CLASS BELUKHA EASTERN 4506 m via North-West wall through icefalls first ascent SAYANOGORSK 1986 Addresses:

1. Krasnoyarsk Krai Saynogorsk

1. Climbing type — snow-ice
2. Climbing area, ridge — Altai, Katunskie Belki ridge, Ak-Kem valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Belukha Vostochnaya, 4506 m, via icefalls of the North-West wall
4. Difficulty category — approximately 50, first ascent
5. Main characteristics of the route: height difference — 1506 m, length — 2033 m, average steepness — 57°, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 543 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 10, ice — 95, no screw-in pitons, placed protection — 8
7. Moving hours — 13 h

RUSSIAN ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS. ICE-SNOW CLASS

Report

on the first ascent to Belukha (3), 4400 m via the direttissima of the northern wall by the team from Altai Krai Sports Committee. Coaches:

• Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class
• Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996

Passport

1. Ice-snow class

The route passes through the part of the Ak-Kem wall visible from Lake Ak-Kem, with an exit to the Western plateau. The route begins from the left upper cirque of the Ak-Kem glacier at an altitude of 3100 m. Section R0–R1. Snow slope. Section R1–R2. Bergschrund 4 m. Insurance through an ice axe. Section R2–R3. Firn slope under a hanging glacier. Section R3–R4. Tongue of a hanging glacier. Ice is hard. Section R4–R5. Snow cushion of a hanging glacier with ice islands. Section R5–R6. Firn bergschrund. Section R6–R2. Belt of ice-filled rocks. Steepness 45–50°. Section R7–R8. Icy rock belt 65°. Section R8–R9. Ice slope with rock islands.

120 m 70–80° I

Passport

I. Ice and Snow Climb Category 2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge, Akkem gorge 3. Peak XX let Oktyabrya (4167 m) via the left edge of the southeast wall of the central counterfort, combined route 4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1167 m, total length - 1800 m. Length of the wall section - 1300 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section - 61° (3000-4050 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock 23, chocks 65, ice screws 27. 7. Climbing hours: 11, days - 1.

1. Geographical Location of the Climbing Area and its Sporting Characteristics The traverse of the Akkem Wall was carried out in the Central Altai region, in the highest area of the Katunsky ridge. This region is home to several peaks over 4000–4200 m, including the highest point in Altai - Belukha mountain (4506 m). The powerful double-headed Belukha massif (over 70 km), rising half a kilometer above the surrounding peaks, divides the entire Katunsky ridge into two parts, differing in height and character. To the west, the peaks do not exceed 3300–3400 m, rising only 300–400 m above the snow line and lacking significant snow cover. To the east of Belukha, the ridge continues, almost without descending, for about 50 km with peaks reaching 3600–4000 m. The main center of glaciation of the Katunsky ridge is the Belukha massif (the Eastern and Western peaks are separated by a relatively shallow saddle 40–50 m).

• To the north, the massif drops off with a very steep rocky wall over 1000 m high.
• To the south, it slopes more gently towards the surface of the Katunsky glacier. Six valley glaciers descend from the slopes of the Belukha massif, two of which (Katunsky and Chyorny), located on the southern and southwestern slopes, give rise to the Katun River, the main water artery of Altai. Most of the glaciation of the Belukha massif is concentrated on its northern slopes. From here:
• To the west flows the Myshutaiyry glacier (Kucherlinsky), giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Katun.
• To the north - the Akkemsky glacier, feeding the Akkem River, also flowing into the Katun.

Russian Alpinism Championship

Ice and Snow Ascent Class

Report

On the second ascent to the peak Delone via the left part of the Northwest wall by the team of the Emergency Response Team (ERT) of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Russian Federation, Gorno-Altaysk. Team Leader: Slobodchikov I.V. — 1st sports category Coach: Yakubovsky V.I. — 1st sports category Participants:

• Slobodchikov Igor Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunisticheskij Ave., 160, apt. 33.
• Yakubovsky Valeriy Ivanovich, 1st sports category, address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Altayskaya st., 26, apt. 2

Passport

v. Titova North Face

Passport

1. Snow and ice climb category.
2. Altai, Katunsky Ridge.
3. Supposed 3A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Height difference 500 m, length 800 m.
5. Ice screws 8.
6. 9 hours of ascent from the camp below Boris Peak. Mokhova V.M. — 1st sports category