Activity Feed
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents by the International Mountaineering Club in the Lake Sarez area in the Pamir Mountains in 2003-2004 to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
Reports on First Ascents
in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs
on the peaks of the Rushan and M Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin - First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: правой части С стены
SSummitMateClimbing passport for Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face, grade 6B, Pamir, Peter the First ridge.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: high-altitude technical
- Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
- Expected difficulty category: 6B
- Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAscent to Peak Borodino via Fortambek Glacier, route description, characteristics of the path and weather conditions in 1979.
Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to Peak Borodino from Fortambek Glacier
| Date | Designation | Average Steepness in Degrees | Length | Relief Character of the Section | Category of Difficulty | Section Condition | Weather | Rock Pits | Ice Pits | Bolt Pits | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 26, 1979 | R0–R1 | 40° | 200 m | Snow-ice slope and I bergschrund | 4 | Snow-covered ice | good | 1 | Processing | ||
| R1–R2 | 45° | 350 m | Ice slope | 4 | Pure ice | « | 4 | route | |||
| R2–R3 | 90° | 8 m | II bergschrund | 6 | Steep ice | « | 1 | P | |||
| R3–R4 | 50° | 200 m | Ice slope and III bergschrund | 5 | Pure ice | « | 4 | ||||
| R4–R5 | 30° | 130 m | Snow slope | 5 | Deep snow | « | |||||
| Departure at 9:00. Stop at 17:30. Working hours 8 h 30 min. Overnight stay on snow in camp I. |
Route Description: В гребню с л. Вальтера
SSummitMateReport on the second ascent of Pik Kirova (6500 m) from the north via a 5A route, made by a team led by G. Shpinnev in 1981.
2nd Ascent
Protocol of debriefing №3 dated July 28, 1980 Present: head of the gathering, senior coach, participants of the gathering. Debriefing of the ascent to p. Kirova (around 6500 m) from the north from the Valter Glacier, with ascent to the plateau via Borodkin's route. Group: leader - Shpynev G., participants Vorobiev A.N., Golovin A.V., Terekhov A.N. Leader Shpynev: On July 24, 1981 at 15:00 we left the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays, made a stop near the lake and at 18:00 approached the route. We spent the night on the Valter Glacier. July 25: At 6:00 we started on the route and by 10:30 we ascended to the campsite at 5200 m, where we stopped for 1.5 hours. Had lunch. At 12:00 we continued moving and by 20:00 stopped for the night 100 m from the "camel". On this section, we met a group from Voronezh, who were descending after completing the ascent (first ascent to p. Kirova from the north) via the same route. July 26: At 7:00 we started on the route. After reaching the ridge leading to p. Kirova, we put on crampons. We reached the summit at 12:00 and, without delaying, began our descent via the ascent route. At 15:30 we approached the overnight stay site, dismantled the tent, and continued our descent. At 19:00 we reached the Valter Glacier and the base camp of the Voronezh group. At 20:30 we arrived at the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays. The weather during the ascent was clear, with strong cold winds.
Route Description: ц. кф. 3 стены
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent to Peak Kirova via the central counterfort of the West wall, complexity category 6B, made by a group of climbers in 1972.
Peak Kirova (6372 m)
Group Composition:
| Surname, First Name, Patronymic | Sport Rank | Year of Birth | Party Membership | Nationality | Sport Experience and Instructor Rank |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| KONKOV Mikhail Petrovich | МСМК | 1937 | чл. КПСС | русск. | since 1955 ст. инструктор |
| GUSEV Viktor Sergeevich | КМС | 1940 | б/п | русск. | since 1964 мл. инструктор |
| CHERNOBELSKY Iosif Vladimirovich | КМС | 1944 | б/п | еврей | since 1961 мл. инструктор |
| CHERNOBELSKAYA Valentina Alexandrovna | КМС | 1943 | б/п | русск. | since 1963 мл. инструктор |
| Nosov Anatoly Pavlovich | КМС | 1936 | б/п | русск. | since 1956 звания нет |
| The route to Peak Kirova (6372 m) via the central counterfort of the Western wall, ascended by the group of the Bashkir expedition, consists of characteristic sections that can be classified as follows: |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent to Peak Krupskaya (6008 m) via the North-Eastern Ridge, completed in 1974 by a group of climbers from MAI, difficulty category 5A.
Peak Krupskaya (6008 m), via the Southeast Ridge, mixed terrain, from Turamys Glacier.
The ascent was made on July 12–14, 1974, by a group from the MAI training camp "Vysochnik" led by V.A. Shuvаlov.
Group Members
- Shuvаlov V.A. — 1st sports category — leader
- Nazarov I.V. — participant
- Komkov V.M. — participant
- Plotkin V.V. — participant Description compiled by: V.A. Shuvаlov
Route Description: ЮЗ стене с л. Липского
SSummitMateReport on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningrad via the South-West face from the Lipsky glacier, 6th difficulty category, made as part of the 1981 USSR Alpine Championship.
USSR Alpine Climbing Championship
High-altitude technical class.
Report
on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningradskaya Western (6470) via the Southwest wall from Lipsky Glacier, approximately category 6 difficulty.
Moscow
1981
Photo of the wall
Photo of the route profile.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене с л. Липского
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent route to Leningrad Peak (6470 m) in the Central Pamir via the Southwest Face from the Lipsky Glacier.
I. Climbing category 2. Climbing region 3. Peak, its height, climbing route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. average steepness 6. Number of pitons driven and placement elements used: rock, ice,
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Peak N. Ostrovsky (9490 m) via the West Ridge, made by the team of the Ukrainian SSR Sports Committee in 1979.
Report
on the first ascent to Peak 7490 m (Peak N. Ostrovsky) via the West Ridge, made by the combined team of the Ukrainian SSR Sports Committee, led by S.I. Bershov, consisting of:
- G.I. Vasilenko
- V.G. Boyko
- V.P. Gordeev
- S.K. Sentsov
- V. Rekoslavsky
- P.F. Slavinsky
- A.N. Tolstousov Between June 8 and June 13, 1979.
Route Description: карнизы центра правее баст. СЗ стены
SSummitMateReport on completing a mountaineering route of 6B category of complexity to the summit of Erydag via the cornices of the central part of the NW wall.
Stavropol Regional Federation of Alpinism
Report
on the passage of the climbing route category 6B on v. Erydag "through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall", made within the framework of the Russian Championship in Alpinism high-altitude and technical class (fifth passage of the route)
Passport of Ascent
- Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table 2013:
- Caucasus. 2.10. Mountains of Dagestan (from v. Shaviklade to v. Bazardyuzyu)
- Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: v. Erydag, height of the summit 3887, name of the route – through the ledges of the center to the right of the bastion of the NW wall (route No. 48g of section 2.10. according to the classification table 2013).
- Category of complexity 6B.