Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Kamchatka. Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes.
2. Summit name: Klyuchevskoy volcano 4750 m. North slope.
3. Proposed category: 2B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 3000 m.
6. Route length: 4.5 km.
7. Average slope: 40°.
8. Total climbing time: 16 hours.

Passport

of the ascent made in the 1976 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship Ascent class — technically challenging. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Medvezhiy Glacier. Ascent route — Bastilia Peak (5432 m) via the northwest wall. Ascent characteristics:

• Elevation gain: 1900 m
• Average slope: 73°
• Length of challenging sections: 1400 m (elevation gain 1300 m, slope 83°)
• Number of pitons: rock — 316, ice — 5
• Number of travel hours: 82 h
• Number of nights: six (excluding processing day), including:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: high-altitude.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall.
4. Difficulty category: 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 1900 m;
   • height difference of the wall section: 1250 m;
   • length of sections:
     • 5th difficulty category — 1040 m;

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT OF PIK REVOLYUTSIONEROV VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE (Pamir, Bivachny Glacier) A group from the TsS DSO "Burevestnik" expedition, July 22, 1961. Pik Rеvolyutsionerov is located in a lateral spur of the Marx-Engels ridge (fig. 1). The first ascent of Pik Rеvolyutsionerov was made in 1957 by a group from the Uzbek expedition led by Nikonov. The group that reached the summit did not classify the route or leave any description of the ascent. A note retrieved from the summit (dated August 30, 1957) only indicates the direction of the path taken by the group to reach the summit and mentions the significant danger of the route due to:

• crumbling rocks
• steep rocks on the north-west wall. On July 22, 1961, a group from the TsS DSO "Burevestnik" expedition consisting of:

4.2.26

4.2. Pamir, Vanch Range, Peak Khrustalny, 5231 m, North Face

Alpinism Club "Donbass"

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area: South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak, its height, and route: p. Medovy. South. route. 3А
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3А, 26
5. Route characteristics
   • height difference: 400 m
   • average steepness: 50–70°
   • length of sections
6. Pitons driven

For the USSR Championship in mountaineering.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Tajikistan via the North-East face (category of high-altitude and technical ascents). Team captain: Honored Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F. Team coach: Honored coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR Markov V.G. Senior coach of the gathering, deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S. Team composition:

• Captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F.
• Deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S.

Protocol № 339 dated 12.09.1971 5B first ascent VT-6 111 Report of the team from the Novosibirsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the ascent of Peak "40th Anniversary of LKSМУ"

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Shugnan Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — northwest spur of GondoRак West (5100) via counterfort of the N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B (2nd ascent)
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1100 m
   • average slope — 55°
   • length of sections:
     • III — 780 m

Description of the First Ascent of Peak "4020" (Peak A. Zyuzin)

1. Historical Background

Alexander Semenovich Zyuzin (1903–1970), an outstanding Soviet mountaineer, Honored Master of Sports, and one of the founders of mountaineering in Ukraine. He was a mountaineering instructor since 1934, organizer of the first student mountaineering expedition to Elbrus in 1936, founder of the "Stal" alpine camp in the Adyrsu gorge on the Central Caucasus, and head of the training department of the All-Union School of Mountaineering Instructors, Ukrainian School of Instructors, and others. Since 1937, he was the creator and first chairman of the Dnepropetrovsk regional section (federation) of mountaineering, a member of the presidiums of the All-Union and Ukrainian sections (federations) of mountaineering. In 1937, he was awarded the title of Master of Sports in mountaineering, and in 1947, he was awarded the honorary title of Honored Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering. A.M. Zyuzin, a scientist-geodesist, is credited with the first research and mapping of many mountainous regions of the Central Caucasus, including Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, Sugan, and Tepli. In these regions, he made numerous first ascents and first passages between 1937 and 1947. In particular, in the Adyrsu-Tyutyusu region, he first conquered the peaks of Orubashi, Kenchat, Kayarta, and others, and passed new routes on Adyrsu-bashi and others. In the Sullukol gorge region, A.M. Zyuzin made the first ascents and gave names to Peak Stal (3855 m) and Termen-bashi (3950 m). To commemorate the centenary of A.M. Zyuzin's birth, the SOAB "Ullutau" together with the mountaineering expedition of the Dnepropetrovsk regional mountaineering federation decided to organize the first ascent to the peak "4020 m" in the Sullukol gorge, located between the peaks Stal and Termen, discovered by A.M. Zyuzin, and propose to name this peak "Peak Zyuzin".

2. Geographical Characteristics