Peak Semenovsky via the NE ridge, 2A

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of peak 4050, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050, 1–1.5 h from the hut. Ascend via talus and snowfields to the NE edge of the cirque, under the couloir descending from peak 4050. Follow the snow-rock boundary (on the left) up the couloir (watch out for falling rocks on the right) to the saddle on the NE ridge, left of peak 4050. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops (caution: heavily deteriorated rocks) through a series of low "gendarmes", about 1 h. The last "gendarme" is bypassed on the right with piton belay. Then, along a wide snowy ridge with outcrops of deteriorated rocks — a gentle ascent to the summit, 5–6 h from the hut. Descent is via the S ridge, as described earlier. Hazardous places:

• Couloir — prone to rockfall
• Rocky terrain — heavily deteriorated
• Possible ice on the descent from the summit in the couloir and on ledges Special equipment — 3–4 rock pitons.

144. Tutyurgiu South via South-East Ridge

(a rock route by A. Naumov, cat. III difficulty, figs. 14, 16). The path from the Bezengi alp camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper circus below the tongue of the East Shaurtu glacier is described in route 142. Having moved 150–200 m left of the base of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak, turn right and enter a narrow rocky couloir on the left side of the South-East ridge of Tutyurgiu South peak. The route follows:

• easy slabs,
• broken rocks of the couloir,
• a 7–8-meter smooth slab (easy rock section),

The first ascent of the Western and Eastern peaks and the traverse of the Uralochka massif was made from July 14 to 18, 1961, by a group consisting of:

1. Ryazanov V.V. - group leader, Master of Sports.
2. Ryabukhin A.G. - 1st sports category.
3. Samokhvalov V.V. - 1st sports category.
4. Benkin V. - 1st sports category.
5. Chernov V.I. - 1st sports category. The Uralochka peak is located in the ridge separating the Ullu-Auz and M. Ukyu cirques, between the Archimedes (4100 m) and Dumala-Tau (4557 m) peaks. The elevation above the M. Ukyu glacier is 700 m, and above the Ullu-Auz glacier is 800 m. The Uralochka peak is a double-headed peak: the Western peak (4270 m) is connected by a 200-meter saddle to the Eastern peak (4300 m). To the north (into the M. Ukyu cirque) from the Western peak, there are tile-like slabs covered with ice and snow; to the south (into the Ullu-Auz cirque), there are walls. The rocks forming the massif are granites with a high quartz content. The cracks are shallow and worn out. The surface of the rocks is rough and pockmarked, resembling the surface of syenites.

3. Ural 3 — v, traverse, 4B.

From the Ukju-kosh hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the KSP Golubjatnja bivouac, then along the M. Ukju glacier to the slope leading to Ural pass — 1.5–2 hours. Up the middle of the snow-ice slope (attention: covered crevasses, rockfall hazard at the edges, especially to the left of the first "gendarme" of the 3rd ridge of Ural peak) into the hollow under the pass, from it — up the steep ice-snow slope (30–40 m) to the pass; from the glacier — 1–1.5 hours. From the pass, ascend left to a gendarme, then along the ridge to the col under the wall of the 3rd summit; a bivouac site is possible here. From the pass — 1 hour. From the col, 4 m left and up to a square boulder, up the inner corner (or left of it) to a ledge, along it 4–5 m, right of a rock awning 5 m up to a trough-like ledge, left and up under a red rock. Right of it, up the corner and on the right side of the wall to a control cairn (35 m from the col). From the cairn, up the slabs and along ledges traversing left under the wall, along the ridge to a red "gendarme" and bypassing it on the left. Behind the "gendarme", straight up 5 m via a chimney and 15 m up the inner corner, then 7–8 m up smooth rocks to a slab with a 40° slope. Along the lower edge of the slab, traverse 15–17 m along a crevasse to the right, up the slab along a vertical wall, 3 m up an overhanging wall (artificial aid) and another 20 m up monolithic rocks to the summit ridge. Along the ridge for 60 m to the 3rd summit. From the col — 4–6 hours. Descent to the E — 40 m rappel, then along the snowy ridge under the E summit. Ascent to the E summit along the ridge; 40 m before the summit, traverse right along a ledge and, bypassing the summit from the S, reach the shoulder of its E ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi
3. Peak — Shaurtu Glavnaya via the right edge of the South ridge wall
4. Difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference from Bezengi alpine camp is 2150 m average steepness 60° length of 4th difficulty sections — 30 m, 80 m, 90 m
6. Pitons hammered: 13 rock, 2 ice, 6 chocks

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent region: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: Aikhva Yuzhnaya (3725 m), from the South
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock, partially traversed
5. Route characteristics: Height difference – approximately 200 m. Route length – 565 m. Length of sections:

• 5th category of difficulty – 7 m
• 4th category of difficulty – 35 m
• 3rd category of difficulty – 70 m

Fig. 3 6. Galdor Main via Western Ridge (combined route by I. Suzhaev, category 4B, Fig. 3). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the moraine leading to the Galdor glacier is described in route 1. From here, ascend the moraines to the Galdor glacier. Then, moving up the steep glacier, overcome a crevasse cutting across it on the left side, and cross over to the right side. Further, staying on the right side (rockfall is possible from the left), approach the saddle of the Sugansky ridge between the peaks of Tsukhgarty on the left and Galdor Main on the right. From the glacier, ascend a steep ice-snow slope, then scree, to the saddle, where a bivouac is set up. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, it takes 4 hours. On the saddle, turn right and reach the rocks of the Western ridge of Galdor Main. Along the simple, heavily destroyed Western ridge, approach the first pinnacle. Overcome this and the subsequent second pinnacle head-on via moderately difficult rocks. Further, along simple rocks, reach the third pinnacle. Overcome it via rocks of above-average difficulty head-on up a 20-meter wall (piton belay), and then bypass the pinnacle's summit on the right via steep rocks. Beyond the pinnacle:

• first, along a ledge on the right side of the ridge;
• then, along destroyed rocks, approach the main rock ascent of the Western ridge.

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 27. Doppakh West via Northwest Ridge (I. Leonov's combined route, category 4B difficulty, Fig. 7, 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) to the lower shoulder of the Northwest ridge, the summit of Doppakh West with the initial bivouac at a small kar in the left side of Sugansky Pass under the Southeast rib of Suganbashi is described in route 26. From the shoulder (bivouac possible) approach the First rock uplift of the Northwest ridge and ascend a 15 m inclined plate, then via difficult rocks of a 12 m steep inner corner to this uplift. Along 35–40 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, approach a vertical wall of a zhendarmer. From under the zhendarmer:

• 15 m descent from the ridge to the left onto a vaguely defined shelf;
• traverse 30 m along the shelf to bypass the zhendarmer.

Fig. 8 30. Tsentralnyi Doppakh via West Ridge (I. Suzhaev's combined route, category 4B, Fig. 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on a snowy site under the East Ridge of West Doppakh is described in route 29. From the site, cross the col (cornice) along the snowy ridge, then approach the base of the first rocky ascent of the West Ridge of Tsentralnyi Doppakh along the steep snowy ridge. Further:

• Ascend the 6–8-meter icy slab of the ascent (piton belay);
• Bypass the overhanging rocks on the right;
• Ascend an 8-meter slab-like, above-average-difficulty rock corner with few footholds (piton belay) to the West Ridge. Along the heavily cut, destroyed, and snow-covered, average-difficulty 120–150-meter West Ridge, approach the first "gendarme". Ascend the 18–20-meter wall of average difficulty to reach the gendarme. Descend left from the gendarme. Then, traverse the steep rocks on the left side (belays) to bypass two needle-like gendarmes and rejoin the West Ridge. Continuing along the West Ridge:
• Bypass a smooth slab — a gendarme — via a 4–5-meter traverse on the left;

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.