Route Description

(Explanation to the table of main route characteristics) Departure at 6:30 AM. Initially, the route follows a simple, crumbling ridge. Rock climbing category 2B. Each section from R0–R1, R1–R2, R2–R3 ends with a gendarme, which are all ascended "head-on". The section R3–R4 ends with a gendarme featuring an internal angle. This gendarme is easily bypassed to the left. Similarly, the section 4–5 is ascended. However, bypassing the fifth gendarme to the left requires a handrail, using one rope. After the fifth gendarme, there's a control cairn. Further, the route traverses left along simple rocks for 100 m, leading to a crumbling rock wall. The wall is ascended with piton belay (rocks of third and fourth difficulty categories). Section 6–7 follows a simple, crumbling ridge leading to the confluence of the eastern and northeastern ridges. Crampons are put on here. Section 7–8 is along a mixed ridge, very sharp, with alternating belay.

16

Ascent to the peak Druzhba via the North-West Ridge

(3A cat. of diff.) We depart from the camp located on Lake Ototash at the foot of the peak Trezubets at 5 a.m. The ascent goes via a relatively gentle glacier covered in deep snow. The snow is covered with an ice crust on top. Almost the entire way the crust collapses under a person's weight and feet sink into the snow up to the knees. We move 100–200 m away from the Trezubets walls gradually turning right. After 1 hour and 30 minutes of walking, we pass several wide crevasses entirely filled with snow. 30 minutes later, we reach Col K-3. Features of the col:

• A gentle snow-covered glacier ascends smoothly and descends just as smoothly to the south.
• There are no crevasses on the col.
• Steep cliffs are located on both sides of the glacier.
• A steep, seemingly sheer glacier descends from the summit of Trezubets. It is also free of crevasses.

ASCENT TO PIK MARONA VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE (cat. grade 3A) 2729 From the camp located on a flat, gravelly area of the upper modern erosion base of the Issledovateley and Chon-Turasu glaciers, we head towards the NNE rock ridge of Pik Marona, situated between the Chon-Turasu river and the Marona glacier. We cross ridges of old lateral moraines and, after 15 minutes, approach the slope of the ridge at a point where a powerful talus slope descends from under the rocky ridge. To the left remain:

• massive rock outcrops of black-green rock,
• scree slopes of fine gravel stretching from them. We ascend directly up the talus slope to a rock wall, then move:
• first along the slope,
• then along terraces upwards along the wall,
• across fine scree, clay soils, and occasionally easy rock. After 2 hours of ascent, we reach the end of the terrace. This location is easily identifiable by two small caves, and the terrace almost immediately ends.

Passport

1. Altitude-technical class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge.
3. Pobeda (3) via 3 ridge (6918 m).
4. 6A category of complexity, with participation in rescue works.
5. Elevation gain: 2518 m, length — 4780 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (West ridge from Diky pass to 6700 m) — 44° (5230 m–6700 m).
6. Used previously driven pitons and not removed — 7. | | Pitons driven: | | | | | :----------: | :------------: | :----------: | :-------: | :------: |

Peak Propeller 4551

Propeller is the end point of a gentle snowy ridge trending southeast, branching off the southwestern part of the Cornice peak. It drops to the Chon-Turasu glacier with a sheer rock wall. The ascent is done from Moldova Pass and takes one day.

16 Peaks Druzhba and Promezhutochny 4450

The peaks are located on the main ridge and close the Nalivkin cirque. Peak Druzhba is a rise in a sharp ridge: rocky to the east and icy with cornices to the west; Peak Promezhutochny is a rise on this icy ridge. The ridge drops to Nalivkin Glacier with a smooth 70-degree ice wall, and to the south with a snowy-icy slope; the last few meters before the summit have the same steepness. The peaks are small snow-covered areas. To the east of Druzhba's summit area are rock "feathers" of equal height. The ascents are done from Ototaş Glacier. After ascending to K-3 Pass (in the upper Ototaş Glacier) via steep, usually ice-covered rocks, one comes to Promezhutochny Peak. Then, along the ridge with huge cornices, one moves toward Druzhba Peak. Along the way, it is necessary to drive in 6-8 ice screws because the upper part of the ridge reaches a steepness of 60°.

54 Peaks 40-let Oktyabrya and Prof. Goralik

Both peaks are located in a lateral spur between the valleys of Chon-Turasu and Kichine-Turasu rivers. Peak 40 let Oktyabrya is a small rocky peak; the slope facing Marona Glacier is rocky and talus; the one facing Kichine-Turasu Glacier is snowy and icy. Prof. Goralik Peak is a low but beautiful rocky tower, the upper plane of which is covered with ice; the glacier flows down to the northeast; the slopes of the peak are talus with frequent rock outcrops. The ascents can be done from either valley: by ascending to the saddle between the peaks along the ridge, one reaches the summit.

Pik Propeller. 4551 m Propeller is the final ascent of a gentle snow ridge trending southeast, branching off from the southwestern part of p. Karniz. It drops to l. Chon-Turasu with a sheer rock wall. The ascent is made from the Moldova Pass and takes one day.

16 Peaks Druzhba and Promezhutochnyi. 4450 m

The peaks are located in the main ridge and enclose the cirque of l. Nalivkina. Pik Druzhba is an elevation in a sharp ridge: rocky to the east and icy with cornices to the west; Pik Promezhutochnyi is an elevation of this icy ridge. The ridge drops to l. Nalivkina with a smooth 70-degree ice wall, and to the south with snowy-icy slopes on the final meters before the summit, having the same steepness. The peaks represent small snow-covered areas. To the east of the summit area of p. Druzhba are rock "feathers" of equal height. Ascent is made from l. Ototaş. Having ascended to K-3 Pass (in the upper reaches of l. Ototaş) via steep, usually ice-covered rocks, one reaches p. Promezhutochnyi. Then along the ridge with huge cornices, one moves towards Pik Druzhba. Along the way, 6–8 ice screws have to be hammered in because the upper part of the ridge reaches a steepness of 60°.

Peaks 40-let Oktyabrya and prof. Garelika

Both peaks are located in a lateral spur between the valleys of the Chon-Turasu and Kichine-Turasu rivers. Pik 40-let Oktyabrya is a small rocky peak, the slope facing l. Marona is rocky-scree; to l. Kichine-Turasu it is snowy-icy. Pik prof. Garelika is a low but beautiful rocky tower, the upper surface of which is covered in ice; the glacier slides down to the northeast, the slopes of the peak are scree with frequent rock outcrops. Ascent can be made from either valley: by ascending to the saddle between the peaks along the ridge, the summit is reached.

PASSPORT

1. Altitude-technical class
2. Tian-Shan
3. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m), via the South face
4. Proposed - 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference – 2700 m, length – 4750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity – 2680 m. Average steepness of the most difficult sections is 50° (4700 m–6700 m).
6. Pitons hammered: ice – 138, rock – 57, bolted – 2.
7. Team's travel time: 88 hours and days – 10

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Summit — Slonënok peak, height — 4726 m, ascent route — Northwest counterfort.
4. Proposed complexity category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1160 m, average steepness — 72°, section lengths:
   • 2nd difficulty category — 260 m.
   • 3rd difficulty category — 17 m.
   • 4th difficulty category — 111 m.

I. Climbing category: combined 2. Climbing region: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Druzhba" 4100 m via the chimney from bastion 3 of the ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 650 m average steepness: 80° length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories: 375 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock pitons: 20 pcs

M26. Kirpich from Dalar Pass

(combined route, 1B category of complexity, first ascent by M. Lepnev, 1937) Approach the slopes of Dalar Pass via the Zapadny Dalar Glacier. Ascend to the pass via a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which can be traversed using a bridge or a gap. From the bivouac on the Dalar plateau — 2–4 hours, depending on the condition of the bergschrund. From the pass, head right along the long snowy ridge, sometimes along the boundary between snow and rocks, to a large snowy rise on the ridge. At the top of the rise, on the rocks, there is a large geodetic cairn. From here, traverse to the left side of the ridge and approach a snow-ice funnel. Do not ascend to its upper edge facing the Myrdy Glacier due to cornices! Cross the funnel in the middle of its slope or along the bottom if it is free of snow. Beyond the funnel, ascend a steep snowy or icy slope, leaving vertically standing gray rock blocks on the left, to a snowy ridge, which leads to the snowy-scree dome of the summit. From the pass — 3 hours. The descent follows the ascent route until the pass and takes 2 hours. To v. Maly Dalar Dalar Pass 26 Kirpich