Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942. The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome. Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge:

• Insurance is simultaneous.
• Movement is in crampons.
• After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on".
• The use of pitons or camming devices is possible.
• The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance.
• 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.

V. MUNKHU ZHIK (3577) via N glacier "tie" from N col - 4B cat. diff. sec. R0–R1: The route starts under the ice "tie", left of the center; a firn slope gradually gains steepness. The passage is made in crampons; in the upper part, the firn disappears. sec. R1–R2: The steepness increases; the passage is made in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes. approx. 45° E 12

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.61 Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, valleys of the Enga-Yu and Sob rivers.
2. Name of the peak: 1287.0 (Topografov Peak) height: 1287.0 route: north-eastern ridge.
3. Category of complexity: 1B, pp.
4. Character of the route — combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 520 m
6. Length of the route: 5900 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of complexity:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range, Belaya River valley
2. Peak, route: p. Fisht (2867), via NW ridge (via "Crocodile")
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, first ascent
4. Route length: 1400 m Average slope of the route: 30°
5. Number of walking hours/days: 3/0.1
6. Leader: Skripchenko A. V. Participants: Yakunina Yu. A., Foigel M. R.
7. Departure to the route: September 6, 2002

1. Ascent to the summit Glavny Aksaut (3910 m) from the south — cat. diff. 2B

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turye Lake, then along the trail and through the barany lby to the Dvuyazychny Glacier and along it (in ropes!) to the Jalovchat Pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 6 hours. From the pass down to the barany lby and through them to the Jalovchat Glacier. Then along the right-bank moraine and further along the Jalovchat Glacier in the direction of the Khamurza Pass, keeping to the left of the rocky outcrops, exit to the steep part of the glacier. Up the steep slope of the glacier (crampons!):

• 300–350 m left-up,
• then 180–200 m right — up,
• exit under the western ridge of the Maly Jalovchat peak. Further:
• traverse right 120–150 m to the rocks of the Maly Aksaut peak,
• crossing the bergschrund (protection!),

Fig. 4.

Fig. 15

Description of the ascent route to Panorama Peak from the South via couloir (2B cat. dif.) (4077)

The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the first stage of the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi glacier's icefall can be found in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass (3A cat. dif.). A bivouac site is located on the moraine of the glacier's first stage. 3 hours from the "Bezengi" alpine camp. Departure from the bivouac at 4:00 towards the wide couloir. Then:

• Ascend on the left side of the couloir via large scree.
• The couloir gradually narrows.
• At the turn, the couloir forks.
• The path goes via the right couloir on snow (35–40°) with crampons.
• 80–90 m before the ridge, turn right and follow distinct rock ledges under the "gendarme" (belay!!).
• The ledges lead to a snow-ice couloir (30–35°).

Fig. 16