Description of the ascent route to Panorama Peak from the South via couloir (2B cat. dif.) (4077)
The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the first stage of the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi glacier's icefall can be found in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from the Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass (3A cat. dif.).
A bivouac site is located on the moraine of the glacier's first stage. 3 hours from the "Bezengi" alpine camp.
Departure from the bivouac at 4:00 towards the wide couloir. Then:
- Ascend on the left side of the couloir via large scree.
- The couloir gradually narrows.
- At the turn, the couloir forks.
- The path goes via the right couloir on snow (35–40°) with crampons.
- 80–90 m before the ridge, turn right and follow distinct rock ledges under the "gendarme" (belay!!).
- The ledges lead to a snow-ice couloir (30–35°).
- Ascend on the left side of the couloir (crampons!) to the snowy ridge (100–120 m).
- Then along the snowy ridge, staying on its right side (cornices on the left!) to the rocky summit.
- The cairn is located on the second rocky peak.
Descent is via the ascent route. (5–6 hours from the bivouac to the summit and back).
