St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship

High-altitude technical class

2022

Report

On the first ascent

to the summit of Peak Ostry 4818 m via the center of the southeast wall, category 5B (proposed), by a team from St. Petersburg from August 4, 2022, to August 6, 2022.

I. Climbing passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, KTM TV 5.4
3. Peak 4750 (p. LOMO) — via the North Ridge, combined route, first ascent
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Length — 1950 m including: length of 5–6 difficulty category — 400 m, including 6 difficulty category — 75 m. Average steepness of the main part — 64°. Height difference — 1150 m.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 46/4
   • chocks: 59/0
   • bolt: 1/0

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Peak 4750 (p.LOMO), via the North Ridge, combined route, third ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Length — 1950 m
   • Length of sections with II–IV difficulty category — 400 m
   • Of which VI difficulty category — 75 m
   • Average steepness of the wall section — 64°

Ascent Report

of the team of the Odessa Alpine Club to the peak Asan (4230 m) via the right part of the Northwest wall (first ascent). CIS Championship (EASC) in Alpinism. High-altitude and technical ascents class. Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, August 2007. Odessa – 2007.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alai, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
2. peak Asan, 4230 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
3. Claimed – 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 930 m (3300–4230). Route length: 1040 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
2. Peak Asan, Timofeev's route through the center of the NW wall.
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route type: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 930 m (3300–4230)
6. Route length: 1110 m Length of sections: cat. diff. V — 215 m, cat. diff. VI — 635 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 80°, entire route — 70°. Hooks left on the route: total — 2; incl. bolted — 2.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Asan via the Timofeev route, 6A category of difficulty, by the MSU alpine club team from August 14 to 19, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

1. Climb category — technical
2. Climb area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Goryak Peak (5013 m) — via the Center of the NE wall. KTMG category 5.4.
4. Proposed complexity category — 6B, First ascent
5. Height difference — 1123 m, including: wall — 1060 m. Length — 1257 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category complexity — 1167 m, including: 6 category complexity — 887 m (3955–3965, 3975–4070, 4115–4205, 4220–4430, 4460–4500, 4590–4650, 4675–4930, 4970–5005) Average steepness of the route — 75°, including: wall — 78°
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge
3. Peak 5013 (p. Gornyak), via the center of the North-North-East wall, variant: Sidorov, 1992
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6B
5. Height difference: 1150 m, wall — 1100 m, of which 5–6 cat. grade — 850 m: average steepness — 75°, including the wall part — 78°
6. Route length: 1300 m, wall part — 1200 m.
7. Pitons driven: rock 168/31 chocks 203/38

The ascent from the base camp, located on the right bank of the Kara-su River, goes along the main slope towards the rock ridge to the left of the North Peak 3800. The approach to the start of the route (the foot of the West Wall of the peak) takes 1.5 hours.

Brief description of the route sections

Section R0–R1. Talus-filled couloir leading to the buttress. Bypass the twin pinnacle on the right. 150 m, 35°. Section R1–R2. Along the damaged rocky buttress, exit to the North Ridge to the right of the ridge. 200 m, 40°–50°, diff. cat. II. Section R2–R3. The destroyed rocky ridge leads to the North Peak.

3. Summit — 3800 m, via the left part of the western wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — IIIА, first ascent.
5. Route length — 710 m.
6. Length of sections: Category I — 20 m. Category II — 350 m. Category III — 260 m. Category IV — 80 m. Average steepness of the route — 45°. Average steepness of the wall section — 55°. Height difference — 430 m.
7. Pitons hammered: Hook pitons — 9, chocks — 8
8. Climbing hours — 10