PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of peak Borovikov (4880 m) via NE wall, category 5B difficulty Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge. Elevation gain 1800 m Route length 3040 m Average slope 42° Route character combined Section lengths:

• 5 — 285 m
• 6 — 50 m Team's moving hours – 32; days – 3

Descending from the North ridge of peak Brno. After narrowing of the couloir - transition to its right side and up. From the place of couloir bifurcation - ascent via its right branch, then to the right and via easy rocks to the Central counterfort. From the trail - 2–3 hours. Via medium difficulty rocks (in rope teams!) on the left side of the counterfort:

• 200 m upwards,
• then transition to its right side,
• via a snowslope ascent towards the wall of the North ridge. From the couloir - 2–3 hours. Via steep medium difficulty rocks:
• 45–50 m straight up,

2. Gidan via SE ridge, 2A

The ascent to the upper cirque of Gidan from the “Ukyu-kosh” hut is done according to the previous description. Move along the "pocket", then cross over to the right-bank moraine at the confluence with the slope, descend into the cirque, approach the slopes of the SE ridge along the left edge of the cirque and ascend to its saddle — 2.5–3 hours. From the KSP "Golubyatnya" shelter, it is advisable to head to the upper cirque by moving along the slopes of the left south counterfort of Mt. Ukyu M. From the saddle, proceed left, strictly along the line of the rocky ridge with protection on rock outcrops (caution! — do not deviate onto the ledges to the right of the ridge — the rocks are heavily deteriorated and outcrops are unreliable). A 6-meter rock wall in the middle section of the ridge is climbed directly via a crack with piton protection. The pre-summit "gendarme" is bypassed on the left via rocks (caution — heavily deteriorated), then 20 m up and right to the summit. From the saddle, 1–1.5 hours. Descent is done via the 3rd ridge as per the previous description. Hazardous areas: deteriorated rocks on the 3rd slope of the pre-summit "gendarme".

8. Two Boitsa Peaks via the 3rd Ridge

From the Djangi-kosh hut, across the "sickle-shaped" moraine, onto the Bezengi Glacier, along the left (as you move) side of the glacier (watch out for covered crevices and rockfall from the southern slopes of Pik Varsavia), bypassing the bases of the three southern spurs of the main Varsavia - Sella ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-auza. Between the end of the southern ridge of Bashkha-auza and Pik Kamnepadnyi, the SW cirque glacier has a branch to the SE into the Dykh-su gorge. Here, exit onto the rocks at the end of the southern ridge, with a slight loss of height traverse the ridges going in the SE direction, and descend into the SE cirque of Bashkha-auza. Through the cirque, under the slopes of the eastern ridge of Bashkha-auza and further up to Spartiak Pass — the snowy saddle closest to the peak. From the hut, 4–5 hours. From the pass, east along the sharp snowy ridge (possible cornices on the north side) with two small "gendarme" peaks, ascent to the rocky summit of the 1st Boitsa. Descent to the SE along the rocky ridge, then left and down the destroyed and snow-covered rocks (watch out for rockfall) onto a wide snowy saddle of the ridge. In adverse weather conditions, it is possible to leave the route here, going left onto the Krumkol Glacier, and return to Spartiak Pass via the glacier. From the saddle, across two snowy "gendarme" peaks and along the sharp snowy ridge to the start of the rocky inner corner. With piton belay, 10–12 m up to the right, then left and up the steep snowy slope onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge to the saddle and from it, up the steep snow-ice pitch with piton belay to the summit of the 2nd Boitsa. From Spartiak Pass, 4–5 hours. Descent and return via the ascent route. To Spartiak Pass, 2–3 hours and then 1.5–2 hours.

Passport

of the ascent made in the championship of the Caucasian Territorial Administration of alp camps. I. Class of ascent: technical. 2. Area of ascent: Central Caucasus, Bezengi. 4. Expected category of difficulty: 5A 5. Characteristics of the route: total height difference of the route — 1850 m, route length — 2750 m. length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 1440 m, average steepness of the wall section — 50°. 6. Number of pitons driven:

Main Dykhtau via the right-hand Southern counterfort — Category 5A (V. Egorov, O. Ilyinsky, A. Kolchin, I. Kudinov, V. Ovsyannikov and V. Toropov — July 7, 1960; Figs. 25, 26, 27). The route from the Bezengi alpine camp to the initial bivouac on the scree ridge under the Southern wall of the Main Dykhtau peak is described in route 73. From the scree ridge:

• up and left across a snowy plateau
• up a rocky snowy gully to a broad scree shelf running along the entire Southern wall of the Dykhtau massif. Along the shelf to the right, crossing:
• two 40–50 m ice-snow gullies (stonefall hazard!)
• and down a 3–4 m wall (“live” rocks!) into a narrow snowy gully (stonefall hazard!). Up and right through the gully to reach the heavily broken rocks of the right-hand Southern counterfort of Main Dykhtau peak. 150–170 m up the broken easy rocks of the right-hand counterfort to a shoulder below a 70–80 m rock belt.

St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

Ascent to the summit of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the central counterfort of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty, (E. Poltavets, 2010) Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Participants:

• Kananykhin I.V.
• Solovey A.I.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

| 1.1 | Leader's full name, sports rank | Kananykhin Igor Vladimirovich, CMS |

St. Petersburg Alpine Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent of Kara-Kaya peak (3646 m) Route via the Central counterfort of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty, (E. Poltavets, 2010) St. Petersburg 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, item 2.5.226 (Minutes of the Classification Commission meeting No. 6 dated December 28, 2010)
2. Name of the peak: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central counterfort of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Category of difficulty: 6A

5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

I. Group Composition

The ascent was made by a group from the LОС DSO "TRUD" with the following composition:

• 1. VASILYEV B.P. — team leader, 1st sports category
• 2. ROMANENKO N.P. — participant, 1st sports category
• 3. SOLONNIKOV V.A. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
• 4. ZHITENEV F.N. — participant, 1st sports category
• 5. BERGILESSOV F.V. — participant, 1st sports category
• 6. MYASNIKOV V.S. — participant, 1st sports category This composition was planned according to the application, and during the preparation and execution of the ascent, it remained unchanged.

II. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Route