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Ascent of Pik Bagritskogo (5700 m) via the west face and north-west spur, grade 4B, Pamir, Shakhdarin range.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical
  2. Ascent area — Shakhdarin Range, southwestern Pamir.
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Pik Bagritskogo, 5700 m, via the southwest wall with exit to the summit along the northwest counterfort.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 4Bk/tr.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1100 m average steepness — 58°; rocks — 69°; ice — 48°. Length of sections: R1 — 80 m, R2 — 290 m, R3 — 215 m, R4 — 385 m, R5 — 180 m.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of the passage of the route through the third pass of the 1st category of complexity in the mountainous area with a photograph.

3rd pass — 1st

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Ascent to Baikoma 6058 via the southern spur of the western ridge, description of a challenging route and its key features.

6058 Bay­ko­ma

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Ascent record of Peak AGCh (6222 m) via the center of the east wall, category 6b, climbed in 1981 by a group of climbers led by G. I. Isachenko.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
  2. Ascent region — 103. Pamir, spurs of the Shakhdarin range, Zuvand valley
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak AGCH, 6222 m, center of the east wall
  4. Expected difficulty category — 6
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1900 m, length — 2120 m length of sections: 5th cat. diff. — 1075 m, 6th cat. diff. — 600 m, average steepness — 70°
  6. Pitons hammered: rock for belay — 215, rock for belay devices — 26, chocks — 43, ice screws — 23
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First ascent to the summit of LITHUANIA via the fourth bastion on the South-West wall, complexity category 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category: High-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: Southwestern Pamir
  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations. Ascent to the peak LITVA via the fourth bastion of the Southwest wall H = 6080 m.
  4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1080 m; average steepness of the wall section 75–80°, length of the complex section 435 m.
  5. Number of pitons: rock 97, ice —, bolt —.
  6. Number of walking hours: 51.5.
  7. Number of bivouacs — their characteristics — 5. To obtain water, we melt ice.
  8. Team name: I team of the Lithuanian national team.
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Ascent to the summit of Litva via the southwestern wall (4th section) in the Western Pamir Mountains, 5B difficulty category, completed in 1988 by a team led by Sergei Lavrukha.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical climb.
  2. Ascent area: South-West Pamir.
  3. Ascent route: Ascent to Litva peak via the fourth bastion of the south-west wall H 6080 m.
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Wall section height difference — 420 m, length — 530 m, length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 390 m.
  6. Number of pitons driven
    RockIceBoltChocks
    477066
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Description of the ascent route, category 6 difficulty, to Peak Luknitsky (5800 m) in the Shakhdara range of the Pamir Mountains, made in 1981 by the team of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent Area: Southwestern Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. Peak, its height: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m. Ascent Route: center — West Wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6 5. Route Characteristics: elevation gain — 1460 m, average steepness — 70°, route type — combined, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 525 m, 5th cat. diff. — 400 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, including for standing on (ИТО) rock — 280, ice — 21 (into ice), bolt — 6, chocks — 117 7. Total hours of climbing — 77.5 (including acclimatization day)

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First ascent of the North summit of Peak Luknitskogo (5800 m) by the West Face, South-West Pamir, USSR, 1976.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m, via the center of the Western wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 6
  5. Route characteristics:
  • height difference: 1350 m
  • average steepness: 65°
  • average steepness of the wall section: 72°
  • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories: 1237 m
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Ascent to Peak Luknitskogo 5800 m via the North wall, 6th category of difficulty, a route of 1630 m in length with an altitude difference and slopes up to 70°.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir
  3. Peak; its height, ascent route — Peak Luknitskogo 5800 m, North face
  4. Proposed complexity category — 6B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 1630 m, avg. slope 70°, section lengths:
    • 3rd diff. cat. — 190 m
    • 4th diff. cat. — 330 m
    • 5th diff. cat. — 620 m
    • 6th diff. cat. — 400 m
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Lukinitskiy (5800 m) via the North face, rated as category 6B difficulty, Pamir, Pakhdara Range.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent category: high-altitude technical.
  2. Ascent area: Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Luknitskogo, 5800 m via the North face.
  4. Estimated category: 6B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 770 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 310 m, average steepness 68°.
  6. Pitons used: for belaying — 275 rock, 8 ice; for creating artificial anchors — 16 rock.
  7. Total climbing hours: 37.
  8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 3 bivouacs: #1 — on the wall, semi-reclining, uncomfortable; #2 — on the wall, reclining; #3 — on the summit, reclining.
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their qualification:
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