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Route Description: С гребню
Ascent to the top of Alaudin (4142 m) via the northern ridge from Dhanat Pass in the Fann Mountains, complexity category 3A.
I. Climbing category — technically complex.
2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains.
3. Peak — ALAUDIN, from Dhanat pass, 4142 m, via the northern ridge.
4. Estimated complexity category — 3A. 5: Route characteristics: a)
elevation gain — 500 m. b) average steepness — 45°. c) length of sections
with 5th category difficulty — 10 m.
6. Number of anchors installed:
- rock anchors — 16 pieces
- ice anchors — none
Route Description: Ю кф. 3 гребня
Climbing passport for Alaudin Peak (4237 m) in the Fann Mountains, difficulty category 3-5, a rocky route with a detailed description of the path and technical characteristics.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: rock
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak Alaudin (4237 m) via the southern counterfort.
- Estimated difficulty category: 3–6
- Route characteristics: height difference – 800 m; average steepness – 60°; section lengths: I – 110 m; II – 285 m; III – 240 m; IV – 55 m; V – 17 m; VI – 0 m.
- Pitons driven: for belaying for creating intermediate anchors rock – 22, ice – 0, bolt – 0
- Number of climbing hours: 7 hours.
- Number of nights and their characteristics: —
Route Description: Ю кф.
Report on the ascent to the summit "Alazidin" via the southern counterforce (4A category of difficulty) with a description of the route, equipment, and actions of the participants.
REPORT on the ascent to the summit "ALAUDIN" via the southern counterfort (4A cat. diff.)
2. Group Composition
- Sandalov I.S. (leader) 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Kr-sk
- Loginov B.M. 1949, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
- Trofimov A.A. 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
- Burlakov Yu.P. 1947, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
3. Equipment
- Main ropes 2 × 40 m, 1 × 60 m
- Repschnur 1 × 10 m
Route Description: Ю кф.
Report on the ascent to Alaudin peak via the southern spur ("Sail") with a complexity category of 4A.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Alaudin via the southern counterfort ("Parasail") (I. Sandalov's route, 72) category 4A on July 25, 2019
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Merkuryeva V.A. — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Zhdanov I.M. — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | |
| 1.4 | Organization | |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of a technical ascent category 5E to the summit of Aurondag (4573 m) via the North-East wall in the Gissar Range, made in 1978.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Gissar Ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the Central North wall
- Difficulty category: 5B, second ascent
- Route characteristics: total elevation gain 978 m, average steepness 73°, technical sections 80°, route length 1197 m and sections by difficulty category (m) | Difficulty Category | Length (m) | | :------------------ | :--------- | | 1 | — |
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Aurondak (4573 m) via the central part of the North wall in the Fann Mountains, with a difficulty category of 5B.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the N wall 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B category 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:
- R1 — 300 m
- R2 — 150 m
- R4 — 370 m
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Technical description of a category 5B route to the summit of Bodhona via the D.3 wall in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1986.
Climbing Passport
I. Category — technical 2. Fann Mountains 3. Bodkhona peak via S.W. wall (Kolonna?) 4. 5B category of difficulty 5. Height difference: wall part: 1000 m, total: 1304 m. Length: wall part: 1018 m, total: 1498 m. Length of 5–6 category of difficulty sections: 838 m, of which 6 category of difficulty: 273 m. Average steepness of the route's wall part: 79° 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 23 | - | 221 | 1 |
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bodhona via the right part of the western wall, rated as 6th category of difficulty.
RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION
PASSPORT
- Class of technical ascents
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge (northern part)
- Bodkhona, 5138 m, via the right part of the western wall (N. Vlodarchik route)
- 6B category of difficulty
- Height difference from the base of the wall to the summit - 1088 m, length - 1810 m. Height difference from the base of the wall to the ridge - 935 m, length - 1210 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 945 m. Average steepness of main sections - 71° (4150-4985), including 6th category: 87° (4200-4270), 85° (4330-4380), 85° (4395-4410), 87° (4475-4495), 62° (4505-4520), 92° (4660-4685), 87° (4785-4885).
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |
Route Description: правой части 3 стены
A description of a technical ascent to the summit of Bodhona via the D.3 wall in the Fann Mountains, with a complexity category of 5B, achieved by a team of climbers in 1986.
Ascent Passport
- Category — technical
- Fann Mountains
- Peak Bodhona via the S.W. wall, "Column"
- 5B category of difficulty
- Height difference: wall section: 1000 m, total: 1304 m. Length: wall section: 1018 m, total: 1498 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 838 m, of which 6 category of difficulty: 273 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 79°
- Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :---: | :----: | :-: | | 23 | – | 221 | 1 |
Route Description: ЮЗ стене С гребня
Climbing route description for Peak Skal'ny (4480 m) via the South-West wall and North ridge, category 36, in Pamir-Alay.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Climbing category — technical.
- Climbing region — Pamir-Alay. Alay Range.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Skalny, 4480 m via the Southwest wall, North ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m.
average steepness — 35–40°, length of sections:
- I — 800 m.
- II — 680 m.
- III — 515 m.