Ascent Passport

1. Climbing class — rock (within the framework of the winter class of the Russian Championship)
2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Chekhychay gorge, Dagestan
3. Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the Western wall through the "feathers" (Samoded route)
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference: — 880 m
   • of which on the wall part of the route — 680 m
   • total route length — 1930 m
   • wall section length — 930 m
   • of which 5th cat. diff. — 525 m

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ВАСПОРТ ВОСХОЖДЕНИЯ (third ascent)

1. Class of ascent — rock.
2. Region of ascent — Caucasus. | | | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: |
3. Peak, its height and ascent route —

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing (within the winter category of the Russian Championship)
2. Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, Chekhchai gorge, Dagestan
3. Mt. Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the W. wall through "feathers" (Samoded route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Height difference: — 880 m
   • wall section — 680 m
   • length of the wall section — 930 m
   • of which 5th difficulty category — 525 m
   • of which 6th difficulty category — 55 m

56 p/p order No.498 28.10.1980 ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Type of ascent — Rock climb.
2. Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, Yarydag ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Yarydag I West, 4110 m, via the right inner corner of the northwest face.
4. Difficulty category — 5B–6.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 880 m
   • Average steepness of the face — 80°
   • Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 723 m.
6. Pitons used:

Scheme of the Yerydag mountain node

439

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

1. Technical category.
2. Eastern Caucasus, Dagestan, Chekh-чай gorge.
3. Yery-dag mountain (3925 m) via the Right "cold corner" of the North-West wall.
4. Proposed 6A category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Length of sections: 5 category of complexity — 560 m, 6 category of complexity — 115 m. Average steepness (up to the plateau) — 76 °.
6. Pitons hammered:

203. Orlyu via the North Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stream flowing with waterfalls from the left lateral gorge, which is highly elevated above the Tyutyusu valley, is described in route 184. Crossing the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream into its valley, above two waterfalls. Then:

• along the moraines and scree along the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream,
• across a simple, gently sloping (with crevasses in the upper part!) Zapadnyy Kayarta glacier, reach the saddle in the ridge between the Orlyu peak on the right and the Glavnaya Kayarta peak on the left — the Shternberg pass. To the pass:
• from the glacier, ascend a steep ice-snow slope (beware of rockfall from the peaks' slopes!),
• then ascend simple, fragmented rocks to the Shternberg pass. On the pass, turn right and:

203. Orely via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp through the Tyutyusu gorge to the Killar Pass is described in routes 184 and 201. From the Killar Pass, turn left (north) and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Orely. From here, ascend along the wide, heavily eroded, straightforward rocky ridge to the summit of Orely. From the Killar Pass, it takes 30-40 minutes. Descend via the same route. The duration of the route is 2 days. Additionally, bring an ice axe.

172. Svetgar East via the North Edge (combined route, K. Tolstova, cat. 4B, fig. 24, 27). From the col between the North and East summits of Svetgar (route 171) go left and 200 m up destroyed rocks and a gently sloping snow-ice slope on the right side of the first rocky outcrop of the North Edge, then along moderately difficult rocks of the North Edge to a ledge. 1.5 hours from the col. From the ledge, along moderately difficult rocks, passing a shoulder, reach a snow-ice slope. Then go 300–400 m up a steep snow-ice slope-ridge with rock outcrops (covered crevasses, cornices) to below the second rocky outcrop of the North Edge. Below the second outcrop, at the boundary between ice and rock, go right. Then go 60–80 m up rocks of above-average difficulty («loose» stones) to a snow-ice slope. Then go 30–40 m along a steep snow-ice slope, then along rocks of above-average difficulty to below the Big Gendarme. From below the gendarme, 30–40 m to the right and along rocks of above-average difficulty with short difficult sections of a corner-couloir, 60–80 m up to a ledge behind the Big Gendarme. From the ledge, 150–200 m up a snow-ice slope, a ridge, and difficult rocks of the North Edge. Then go 280–300 m along the steep, sharp snow-ice (cornices) North Edge, overcoming II and III gendarmes head-on, and IV and V gendarmes, bypassing them on the right («loose» stones), to ascend to the summit of Svetgar East. 10–12 hours from the initial bivouac.

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge, Western spur from Mt. Stal, section 2.4.1 according to KMGV.
2. Peak, route: Peak 3800 m (Peak "Severstal") via the Western ridge.
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Height difference: 800 m.
   • including 393 m of actual wall section.
   • total route length — 1685 m
   • wall section length — 865 m
   • including: