- Orlyu via the North Ridge (Category 1B route).
The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stream flowing with waterfalls from the left lateral gorge, which is highly elevated above the Tyutyusu valley, is described in route 184.
Crossing the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream into its valley, above two waterfalls. Then:
- along the moraines and scree along the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream,
- across a simple, gently sloping (with crevasses in the upper part!) Zapadnyy Kayarta glacier, reach the saddle in the ridge between the Orlyu peak on the right and the Glavnaya Kayarta peak on the left — the Shternberg pass.
To the pass:
- from the glacier, ascend a steep ice-snow slope (beware of rockfall from the peaks' slopes!),
- then ascend simple, fragmented rocks to the Shternberg pass.
On the pass, turn right and:
- ascend a snowy slope with rocky sections to the rocks of the North Ridge of Orlyu peak,
- ascend 180–200 m straight up simple rocks along the ridge,
- then ascend a snowy ridge (beware of cornices!) to a nearly horizontal, long ridge, and follow it (beware of cornices!) to the summit of Orlyu.
From the pass, the ascent takes 1.5–2 hours.
Descent: follow the ascent route or descend via the South Ridge (see route 202).
Duration of the route: 3 days. Bring 2 additional ice screws.