Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
2. Peak — Kapitsa P.L. Peak (3720 m), according to CF S3
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference of the route 700 m Route length M Length of sections: difficulty category M, difficulty category M

v. Karatash

3510 m

Report

Teams from Tomsk Region (TFA)

on the first ascent of the route on v. Karatash via the north-eastern counterfort of the north-eastern ridge "4A" (rocky) Participants: Temerev I.M. Karpitskiy E.V. Tomsk — 2004

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Altai, Severo-Chuisky ridge, Aktru valley.
3. V. Kupol via the Western wall couloir.
4. Proposed category 1B (the route has been climbed multiple times, but has apparently never been submitted for classification).
5. Elevation gain 1420 m, distance 4200 m.
6. No pitons used.
7. Climbing time: 8 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Sokolov V.P., 1st sports category, 3rd category and novice group.

V. Kzyl­tash from Kon­teyner Pass, Cat. 1B

From the camp, move in the direction of Ak­tru Glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash, following the river bed until big rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further:

• walk along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazh­erov;
• the lake is located behind a moraine rampart;
• on the moraine — a glaciologists' tent;
• 2–2.5 hours walking from the camp;
• a convenient place for an overnight stay.

1.2 III

Passport

1. Category: classification application.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak river gorge.
3. Peak Neizvestnykh Solat via SW ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2A.
5. Height 3300 m, elevation gain 800 m, length 1600 m.
6. 6 pitons used.
7. Moving time: 7 hours from camp to camp; 6 hours from the start of the ascent to the summit to the start of the descent.

V. Radistov via the ridge from the Bolshaya Aktru glacier, category III

From the camp, move up the Aktru river in the direction of the Bolshaya Aktru glacier. The ridge of Radistov Peak is bypassed on the right. Move along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash Peak, following the riverbed until the big "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

• go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhёrov Peak.
• the lake ("Goluboye" / "Blue") is located behind a moraine rampart.
• there is a hut on the moraine.
• from the camp, it takes 2–2.5 hours of walking. From the moraine lake, cross the Bolshaya Aktru glacier in the direction of the widest snow couloir,

V. Snezhnaya 3. North ridge couloir Drakin A.V. Altai. May 4, 1992

Passport

1. Class: snow-ice.
2. Altai: Severo-Chuysky ridge, Akturu gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the western couloir of the north ridge.
4. Proposed category 2B first ascent.

V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.

From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley

STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed:

• Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a
• Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length:
• to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)

Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak:

• At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one.
• Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw".
• Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge.
• The "saw" is the key section of the route.
• After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.