Climbing Passport. 5.2.110 Climbing Class: Rock (Combined) Climbing Area: Igizakov area (5.2.) Peak, its height, and climbing route: "Ular", 3900 m via the Northwest Ridge, cat. dif. "Ular" Estimated Difficulty Category: 3A Route Characteristics: Height difference: 300 m Average steepness: 50° Section lengths: 2–150 m; II–100 m; III–240 m; Pitons driven:

Description of the First Ascent to the Festivalnaya Peak via the North Face

The Festivlnaya peak is located in the upper reaches of the Mama River, in the southern spur of the Hissar Range - south of the Proni Siam and South Siam peaks. This spur stretches from north to south and sharply turns east near the Festivlnaya peak. There are two Festivlnaya peaks:

• Eastern
• Western (main, height 4350 m), which are elevations on a massive ridge stretching in a latitudinal direction. A route along the ridge from east to west was previously traversed and is rated as a 4A category route. The northern slopes of the peak are steep, with snow-covered rocks and steep snow and ice couloirs in many places. A significant snow and ice couloir descends from the saddle between the Eastern and Western peaks. The rocks on the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the couloir are heavily destroyed, and stones are constantly falling from there. To the right of the couloir, there are two counterforts separated by a snowy slope, and ascent routes to the peak are possible via both.

1. Category of ascent — technical
2. Area of ascent — Gissar Range
3. Route of ascent — first ascent via the northern ridge of Khodzha Lokan peak — 4764 m
4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1000 m, average steepness — 57°, length of difficult sections — 430 m
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 46, ice — 14
6. Number of travel hours — 12 h
7. Number of overnight stays — 1
8. Ascent made by a group of instructors from "Varzob" alpine camp
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification.

9. I. 5 ropes left — up, further up (40–50°) — 2 ice and 2 rock pitches are solid (grade 7–8). The northern trough expands and turns into a steep slope, resting against the junction with the eastern ridge near the tower's summit. IО. Up monolithic slabs (50°), few holds (only thin pitons go in) (4 ropes — 9 pitons, grade 8–9). II. One rope of snow and rock — medium difficulty rock — left and up, bypassing the pre-summit tower (grade 9–IО) via 3 ropes of Alpine rock, exit onto the ridge.
10. One rope along the ridge (3 pitons, grade I0 — II). Then 3 ropes on disintegrated rocks to the eastern summit.
11. Descent from the E summit to the pass (last 15 m on a rope) and ascent to the main summit along the wide main ridge (grade: II — 12)
12. Descent initially via the ascent route to the ridge fork. Further down along the eastern ridge to the Алаудин valley — right and down. Slabs and scree on them. Last 2 ropes before reaching the shoulder of the eastern ridge — descent on a rope with retrieval.
13. From the shoulder to the very bottom, scree goes with outcrops of "ram's teeth" — I valley of Алаудин valley (6 pitons on descent). запасной вариант спуска — на переходе между Адан-кни and п. Прошехуточный (3 km/h). First ascenders recommend making it the main descent route. They estimate the ascent at 2000 m, 4 hours.

PASSPORT

I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge 3. p. Adam-Tash, 4700 m, via N face, E edge 4. 5B cat. dif., third ascent 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 630 m, length 980 m, sections of 5-6 cat. dif. 380 m average steepness of the main part of the route 75° 6. Pitons used: rock 10/3

Ascent Log

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains, northern part.
3. Peak "Bodkhona", 5138 m, 5B category of difficulty via the North-Western Counterfort, G. Gulnev 1967.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 1440 m (by altimeter); route length — 2940 m; length of sections with V category of difficulty — 250 m; VI category of difficulty — 130 m; average steepness of the main part of the route — 55–60°, (up to Gulnev's shoulder); entire route — 45°.
6. Hooks left on the route: 0. Hooks hammered on the route:
   • Bolted: 2* / 1*
   • Rock: 8* + 10 / 2

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Fann Mountains 3. Bodhona Peak, via the left part of the western wall, Zhitenev's route 4. Height difference: 965 m, length 1120 m. Length of sections: 6th cat. diff. – 540 m, 5th cat. diff. – 210 m. Average steepness of the route is 85°. 5. Number of pitons:

Ascent Certificate

I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent region — Fann Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodkhona (5300 m) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B.'s route, 1968, 3rd ascent) 4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 3270 m, height difference — 2100 m, average steepness — 75°, length of challenging sections — 520 m, 6th category of complexity. 5. Pitons hammered in: rock (including stoppers) — 220, ice — 4 6. Total climbing hours — 40 h 7. Number of bivouacs — 4 (all convenient)

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodhona (5300 m) via N. wall, 5B category of complexity («Kudinov I.B. route, 1968, 3rd ascent») 4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 3270 m height difference — 2100 m average steepness — 75° length of difficult sections — 520 m, VI category of complexity 5. Pitons driven:

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Peak Bodhona East, via the North Face (B. Bogdanov's route, 1991)

Ascent Passport

Technical Grade. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains. Peak Bodhona East, via the North Face (B. Bogdanov's route, 1991) Difficulty category — 6B, first ascent. Ascent characteristics:

• Elevation gain — 1770 m, wall section — 1650 m
• Length — 2866 m, wall section — 1976 m
• Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty grade — 701 m (6th grade — 375 m)
• Average steepness of the main route — 60°, section R0–R28 — 65°, section R34–R53 — 70°