Trident. From the North

Climbing description for Category III route

I. Approaches

The approach to the summit follows the valley next to the Cheryrekh Uchel'ye gorge. Crossing the Maikhura River by fording. There is no trail, and the route goes straight up the valley, through large scree. There is no water visible as it runs under the scree. At the end of the valley, there is a rock wall with gushing water fountains that disappear under the scree 100–150 m below. At this spot, there is a large green meadow suitable for camping. The approach from the road takes 2 hours, with a significant ascent. From the overnight camp, one can pass the wall with fountains (the rocks are easy, with shelves) and reach the glacier cirque.

II. Ascent

108

Ascent to Ular Peak

from Ular Glacier via couloir — Category 1B difficulty The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below Bivachnaya Peak. From the camp, follow the stream flowing from the cirque formed by the peaks:

• Khamsdi
• Ulara
• Khyrsa
• Kulay Dzhovanon upwards to the old lateral moraine of Ular Glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular Glacier plateau, which is crossed leftwards towards the Ular massif, leaving Vorob'inyi Pass on the right.

Ascent to the Ular summit from Vorobьиный Pass — Cat. II

The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should go up the stream flowing from the cirque of the Khamsai, Ular, Khyr's, and Kulay Ljovanon peaks, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular plateau, from which you can reach Vorobьиный Pass. From the pass, ascend left up the scree, and then via easy broken rocks. Further, move along the broken ridge with simultaneous belay to the gap. Descent to the saddle in the gap is organized with a 15-meter rope. From the saddle, movement continues along the ridge with alternating belay, mainly through outcroppings. A sharp 10-meter rock ridge leads to the I gendarme. Bypass I and subsequent II gendarmes on the left via ledges, and ascend to a grassy area. The further ascent goes along the grassy slope of the ridge on the right part, and via heavily broken rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones. Belay is simultaneous. The descent from the summit is done via the Cat. 1B route down the couloir to the Ular glacier. When descending the snowfield, go right, as there is a bergschrund at the bottom. Then, from the glacier, descend along the right-bank moraine until you reach the trail, and down the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people
2. Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"

Ascent to the peak ULAR from the Ular glacier via the NW ridge — cat. III

The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivachnaya. From the camp, one should go upstream along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsli, Ular, Khyrс, Kulay Dzovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, which is crossed to the left in the direction of the Ular massif (its NW ridge), leaving the Vorob'inyi pass to the right. The ascent route to the NW ridge goes along the rib to the left of the third couloir (counting from the bottom) from the Ular glacier plateau. The couloir is steep and narrow and leads to the saddle of the NW ridge. Start the ascent via this couloir. Approaching the bergschrund, leave the steep snowy couloir leading to the gap in the NW ridge to the right (hereinafter referred to as the gap between the 1st and 2nd jandarmes), cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, or if the bridge is absent, descend into the crevasse.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Ular, 4000 m, via the southern counterfort. S. wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) Height difference — 250 m. b) Length of sections with 4A difficulty category – 50 m, 3rd category – 200 m. c) Average steepness — 60°.
6. Pitons driven:

38. Hamsøya Central summit, from Bezymyannyi pass, category III, fig. 17

From the "Green Glade" bivouac, follow the stream flowing from the ice amphitheater towards Bezymyannyi pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow and talus. Hamsøya is a ridge with three summits oriented in a meridional direction. From the pass, head south towards the North summit. The first sentinels are bypassed on the left. The rocks are crumbling. A ridge approaches the North summit from the left. Before reaching the ridge, ascend slightly to the right. Reach the summit without ascending onto the main ridge. The descent from the North summit is over easy rocks along a narrow ridge towards the col between the North and Central summits. Then descend down to the right from the ridge and follow a series of ledges to reach the col. The ascent to the Central summit from the col is up a smooth 10 m wall via a crack. Protection is piton. Then reach large smooth slabs. They are traversed via a crack. Moving left along large boulders, reach the Central summit. Between the Central and South summits lies a deep gap. The descent from the summit is over smooth, stepped rocks. Bypass the sentinel on the right via a wide ledge and descend into the col below the South summit via a couloir, which drops off with a negative smooth slab. From the col, descend down to the right along a steep couloir, then follow the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7 hours. Fig. 17.

Ascent Description

To the peak Khar'kov (category III) The group should depart from the bivouac at 6:00. You need to ascend to the glacier of peak Khar'kov via the terminal moraine and move along its slopes towards the Pяти pass, from which the ascent to the summit begins. The ascent to the pass goes through steep snow (40-45° steepness) with a bergschrund at the base, which is usually closed at the beginning of summer and opens in August-September. The length of the ascent from the bergschrund to the pass ridge is approximately 60 m. Upon reaching the pass:

• The first 10-15 m the path goes through the snowfield to the right of the rocks.
• The first "Jendarme" on the way is bypassed on the left via easy rocks.
• Then follows an exit to the ridge and movement along it on the right side.
• On the left side of the ridge, there is a good platform for organizing an overnight stay.
• Along the ridge, the path goes to the second jendarme.

1. Khodzha Lokan (Mechta) via the west ridge, 4A cat. diff. route, fig. 2.

From the base camp, cross to the Kadam-Tash stream via Cheryotyrekh Pass. Then ascend the scree to the glacier located beneath the eastern wall of the summit. Cross the glacier plateau to Mechta Pass, where there are overnight stay areas. Descend from the pass down the glacier for 15–20 minutes. Before reaching the glacier's bend, ascend in the direction of:

• the bergschrund;
• two rock "islands";
• the ridge leading to the snowy saddle on the summit's west ridge. The ascent up the ice slope is done with alternating belays via ice screws. Higher up, belays are set using rock pitons hammered into the rocks of the "islands" and the ridge leading to the saddle. The ascent from the glacier to the saddle is 400 m. Above the saddle, the gendarme's wall is crowned with three peaks, between which two chimneys descend down the entire wall. Pass under the wall on the right via wide horizontal ledges and reach a couloir. Cross the couloir and ascend to the summit ridge via its right side. Follow the ridge (over rocks and snow) to the summit. The ascent from Mechta Pass to the summit takes 8–10 hours. The descent is from the summit via the ascent route. From the saddle, the descent is organized with rope retrieval down to the glacier. Then follow the glacier through the passes:

Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16. Recommended ascent route:

• Photo 15. View of the second tier bastion from R16
• Photo 16. Section R17–R18. Rope descent. Photo 17. Entering the chimney R18–R19. Photo 18. Passing the chimney R19–R22.

Description

of the ascent to the peak "SEL'MASHEVETS" 2–6 category of difficulty. 14200 15 — 3–63 From the city of Frunze, we arrive at the "Issyk-Ata" resort. From the resort, the path lies along the right (orographic) bank of the river to the edge of the forest, located on the left bank of the river. From here, a view opens up to the gorge and the peak "KONEV" (on the right). At this point, we should cross to the left bank of the river, where we can make a halt. In the middle of the "Issyk-Ata" gorge stands the peak "BOTVEY", with sheer walls dividing the gorge into two branches. From the halt, the path goes through the meadow in the direction of the right branch of the gorge. Having reached a large boulder standing alone on the meadow, we turn left and descend down the scree to the river. Further, the path goes upstream along the river under the overhanging bank. At this point, we should be particularly cautious and attentive, as rockfalls or landslides are possible, especially after rain. We cross to the right bank of the river and ascend to the foot of a steep moraine, where we can rest at the edge of the forest. The approach to the moraine takes 4–5 hours. The ascent up the moraine is done closer to the left (in the direction of travel) side. The gorge gradually narrows. We overcome the last moraine ridge and enter the "BOTVEY" cirque. The ascent up the moraine to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. We set up camp on the "BOTVEY" glacier near the lake. The campsite is very convenient and safe. It takes 10–15 minutes to walk from the tents to the foot of the pass. The ascent to the pass via the middle scree takes about an hour. We form rope teams on the pass. The path from the pass goes along the scree beside the rocky outcrops — gendarmes — on the right (in the direction of travel) side. The movement along this section includes the following stages:

• The first and second gendarmes are bypassed with belay through rocky outcrops.