Ascent Passport

1. Technical grade
2. Caucasus. Adyr-su gorge
3. Djailik via the left part of the 1st South Western ridge (M. Franzuzov's route variant, 70)
4. First ascent of a new 5A variant approximately
5. Height difference: 600 m Length: 1000 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade: 40 m Average steepness of the wall part of the route: 67° Height difference of the wall part: 150 m

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su, Kulumkol valleys 3. Jailyk peak via the right edge of the 1st Southern bastion of the Western ridge, 4533 m 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 730 m, length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 240 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 79° (3850–4100 m), including 6 cat. diff. — 75–95° (3905–4050 m) 6. Pitons hammered:

• rock: 53 (hammered) / 50 (left)
• bolt: 12 / 4
• chocks: 85 / 70

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Djailyk knot between Donkin and Killar passes.
3. Peak — its height, ascent route: Djailyk 4533 m, combined route via south-southwest wall of the southern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 890 m.
   • Average steepness up to the summit ridge: 64°.
   • Average steepness of the most difficult "key" part of the route: 89°.

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Jailyk peak via the West face of the South shoulder, D. Laskavyi route, 1978, cat. 5B
4. Height difference 850 m
5. Average slope 58°
6. Length of sections with cat. 5–6 difficulty – 157 m
7. Pitons used:

   Category	For belay	For artificial climbing

North Caucasus and Southern Federal Districts Climbing Championship

high-altitude technical class

REPORT

On the ascent of Jailyk peak via the 3rd wall of the S. shoulder of the S. ridge (D. Laskavy's route) 5B category of complexity by the team from Rostov Region for the period from July 24–25, 2024.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
2. Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
3. Difficulty category: 5B.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, key peak of the Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, and Chegem gorges area.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJAILYK, 4533 m, rock route, via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections of V difficulty category – 45 m, VI difficulty category – 120 m.
5. Estimated difficulty category: – 5B.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • for belay
     • rock: 32
     • bolt: 42

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, a key peak in the Adyr-su, Tyutyu-su, and Chegem valleys area.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Djailyk, 4533 m — rocky route via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 550 m, average slope 75°; section lengths: 2nd difficulty category 200 m, 3rd–4th 215 m plus traverse to the summit; 5th and 6th difficulty category 145 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: for belay — 16, for R.P.E. — 20; chocks: for belay — 22, for R.P.E. — 28.
7. Number of climbing hours — 19.

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Caucasus, Adyr-Su valley
3. Mt. Dzhailyk, via the Central counterfort of the South wall (Khazkevich's route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 600 m Height difference of the wall section — 300 m, route length — 1137 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 202 m, average steepness of the wall section — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock, bolt, ice, and chock placements: 38/3, 4×, 1+2×, 49/6× (reuse of previously driven pitons)
7. Travel time: — 8.5 hours, days — 1