Passport
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Technical category
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Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge
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Jailyk peak via the West face of the South shoulder, D. Laskavyi route, 1978, cat. 5B
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Height difference 850 m
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Average slope 58°
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Length of sections with cat. 5–6 difficulty – 157 m
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Pitons used:
Category For belay For artificial climbing rock (incl. reused old) 20/4 –/4 ice – – bolt (incl. reused old) 15 6 chocks 48 3 -
Climbing time – 52 hours
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Overnight stops: one on the ascent and one on the descent
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Team of Elbrus Training and Sports Base Derevyanko V. F. (team leader, Candidate for Master of Sports) Kharitonenko K. N. (Candidate for Master of Sports) Cheresku I. D. (Candidate for Master of Sports)
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Coach: Tilov B. O.
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Approach to the route – July 8, 2002 summit – July 9, 2002 return – July 10, 2002
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| Section | Pitons | Chocks | Bolts | Meters | Slope | Difficulty category |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R14 | – | 7 | – | 120 m | 35° | II–III |
| R13 | – | 6 | – | 90 m | 30° | III |
| R12 | – | 7 | – | 40 m | 60° | III |
| R11 | – | 8 | – | 40 m | 55° | V |
| R10 | 5 | 4 | 3 | 15 m | 90° | VI |
| R9 | 6 | 8 | 4 | 50 m | 85° | V |
| R8 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 10 m | 90° | VI |
| R7 | – | 1 | 2 | 2 m | 95° | VI |
| R6 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 40 m | 90° | VI |
| R5 | 3 | 4 | – | 30 m | 85° | V |
| R4 | 2 | 3 | – | 10 m | 80° | V |
| R3 | – | 4 | – | 80 m | 40° | II–III |
| R2 | – | – | – | 50 m | 40° | II |
| R1 | – | 2 | – | 120 m | 45° | II |
| R0 | – | – | – | 200 m | 40° | II |
Tactical actions of the team
July 7, 2002. In accordance with the tactical plan, the team set out on the approach from the Ullu-Tau rescue post at 14:00 and reached the overnight campsite by the Kichkidar lakes by 18:00.
July 8, 2002. We left the campsite at 5:00. We reached the start of the route via the glacier. After the glacier was exposed to the sun, a large amount of snow complicated the ascent. At 10:00, we began moving along the right side of the ice-snow couloir between the South ridge and the West edge. Then we climbed rocks of moderate difficulty to an ice-snow ledge 80–85 m above, on a platform under a cornice. We decided to prepare the start of the key wall and, in the deep snow, we prepared a platform for the tent. 19:00.
July 9, 2002. We set out at 8:00. We climbed the prepared rope on difficult (cat. 5–6) rocks and reached a ledge for one person. Another 50 m of rocks (cat. 5–6) with the use of artificial climbing and we reached a platform at the base of the South ridge. Then we climbed rocks of moderate difficulty onto the heavily snow-covered South ridge and, bypassing the "Claw" gendarme, reached the summit at 15:00. Due to the complicated snow conditions, we decided to descend the next day.
July 10, 2002. At 7:00, we began descending via the cat. 4A route and returned to the Ullu-Tau rescue post at 18:00.