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v. Polytechnik, 4B, left buttress of the Northwest wall (B. Borisov's route, 78)

Climbing Passport

Climbing type: rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Polytechnik (4400 m), via the North ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 700 m;

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTICAL-ALAUDIN" www.fanyvertical.ru

MT POLITEKHNIK, 4B, 2ND LEFT BUTTRESS OF NORTHWEST FACE (V. DARUGA ROUTE, 79)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

Ascent class: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics: height difference – 700 m;

Ascent Record (3rd Passage)

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge
3. Peak: Sary-Shakh (4650 m) via the right edge of the northeast wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness 80°, section lengths: 3 – 100 m, 4 – 140 m, 5 – 230 m, 6 – 145 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | Type of pitons | For belay | For creating ITO | | :------------- | :-------- | :--------------- |

Mt. Северная, 2B, via North Edge

Climbing type: Rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Северная (4027 m), via North Edge Difficulty category: 2B Route characteristics: Height difference — 200 m

Route description

The route starts from Алаудинский pass. Follow the ridge of the pass to the rocks of Peak Северный. From the upper point of the pass's ridge, move 2 meters to the right — the beginning of the route, the lower part of the 1st buttress, a signpost is present (М^). From the start of the route, ascend 5–8 m upwards, then traverse 10 m to the right along a ledge. Continue upwards through internal corners for about 70 m until reaching a control cairn located on a ledge of the northern ridge. Then ascend 10–15 m along the ledge to a "hole" (a gap covered by a stone slab from above). Through it, ascend easy rocks to the left and upwards to an inclined 8-meter slab at the summit, where the summit cairn is located. Descend via scree towards Шагун-Ага pass.

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Severny (North Peak) category 3A difficulty 3A, via NW ridge, 4050 m. Pik Severny is located in the eastern part of the massif, situated above the Alaudin pass. The described route initially follows the NW ridge, where the D-3 ridge converges with the wall facing north, forming a protruding angle to the NW. The approach to the route from the Kulikalon lakes takes 2.5-3 hours. After 1-1.5 hours of ascent along the trail leading to the Alaudin pass, one needs to change direction to the right and upwards along the grassy ridge. The starting point of the route is a clearly defined and protruding rocky "peak" at the base of the route. A midpoint landmark on the ridge is the "brick" - a rectangular rocky outcrop; the destination is located to the left of it. From the rocky peak, proceed right and upwards for 1 rope length - alternating belay, using pitons and rock features, to a snowy-icy section. 2 pitons, start of the route at 10:10. Continue to make your way to the "brick" right and upwards. Before reaching 1/3 of the way to the "brick", there is a talus shelf on the right where the first control cairn is located under large stones. To the 1st control cairn, 3 rope lengths. (3 rope lengths, alternating belay, via outcrops, 3 pitons). From the 1st control cairn, proceed left and upwards to 2 large boulders - 1 rope length. From the 2 large boulders, make your way to a chimney with a plug - 1 rope length. (2 rope lengths, alternating belay, piton belay, 3 pitons, via outcrops). From the plug, 2 rope lengths lead to the exit onto the NW ridge. Continue simultaneously along the ridge, with the slope to one side, towards the summit.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. URECH, 3400 m, via the Eastern Edge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 500 m, total route length — 790 m, average steepness — 30°
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport 208

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Khodzha-Ravat, 3600 m via W ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m, average steepness — 37 degrees, route length 1150 m. 6. Number of rock pitons hammered for belay — 7. 7. Number of climbing hours — 5 hours. 8. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

Verkhnyaya Baika and Chaniyagina

Ascent to the summit of Pila (4600 m) 25 c.d. SC

via the northwest ridge The summit of Pila, 4600 m high, is located in a ridge running north of the Lupdon pass. The route along the ridge is almost entirely rocky. There are very small sections of firn. The ridge is sharp, rocky, and consists of a series of pronounced "mandarins." The summit had remained unconquered until recently.

Descent after ascent

The group left the base camp at 12:00, heading towards the Lupdon pass. The approach to the pass takes 3 hours. Before reaching the pass point, we turn left. From there, the ascent begins via a wide, scree-filled couloir. The steepness of the couloir is 30°. The snow is hard and compacted in the lower part, and very loose and fine in the upper part of the couloir. The couloir ends at the ridge. The ascent via the couloir takes 3 hours. At the pass point on the ridge, we find a cairn. A note from climbers from "Varzob" camp is retrieved. Elevation: 4200 m. We set up a night's stay. At 7:00, we start on the route. Along a gentle snow slope, we reach the beginning of the local ridge leading to the summit in 10 minutes. The start of the route is very monolithic - rocks with convenient handholds. Two ropes along moderately difficult rocks - and we're on the ridge. Belay via outcrops. Just below the ridge, to the left of it, we advance another two ropes. We climb in turns with belay via outcrops. With top rope, we descend 10 m down a large rock (1 piton), and then back up to the sharp ridge. The ascent along the ridge at this point is only possible by crawling (20 m, 2 pitons). Careful belay is necessary. To the left and right - sheer walls. Further along the ridge, several rocks lead to "mandarin" #1. The "mandarin" should be bypassed from the right. Here, there's a long (40 m) inclined ledge, above which rocks overhang. Movement is only possible while crouching, and in some places - crawling. 3 pitons are hammered in at this section.

«Landari» No.2 is bypassed by unsecured climbing. Further along the ridge, there is a steep (60–70°) ascent (2 ropes, 3 pitons). After the ascent, we approach the faceted «handarm» No.3. «Landari» is bypassed from the left along narrow sheer ledges and partially on snow (150 m). The ledges lead into the base of the inner corner (60 m). Climbing is of medium difficulty (2 pitons). There are many loose stones in this area. After the corner, we reach the shoulder before the large gray «handarm» No.4. The ascent to this point took 6 hours. To the right of the «handarm», we ascend a steep oval couloir (20 m) and enter a passage between the rocky walls. Along the right wall (70°), we reach the ridge between «handarms» 4 and 5. 3 pitons are driven into the wall (40 m). From the ridge, we begin moving along a chimney — difficult, using friction, spreading, and jamming of limbs (3 pitons). The chimney leads to smooth slabs on the right side of «handarm» 5. The steepness is 50–55°. The slabs have a horizontal crack along which we pass this section (2 pitons). After the slabs:

• we continue to bypass «Handarm» 5 from the right along rocks of medium difficulty,
• after which we reach the ridge between «Handarms» 5 and 6,
• along a narrow ledge, we traverse «Handarm» 6 from the left to a chimney with an overhang and a ring at the top (0 m). Climbing is difficult, especially at the top (2 pitons). The chimney leads to the top of «Handarm» 6. From «handarm» No.6, we organize a belay down the rope (30 m) for the changeover using the «handarm» No.6 and the summit tower. Movement along the changeover is along narrow ledges with snow. Then, a vertical crevice (12 m) leads to the pre-summit ridge. Further movement to the summit is simultaneous. The path from the shoulder of «handarm» No.4 to the summit took 4.5 hours.