ASCENT LOG

1. Type of ascent — sport climbing. First ascent.
2. Region of ascent — Caucasus, Adyrsky spur of the Main Caucasus Range.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their altitudes — Sullukol-bashi 2nd eastern peak via the South face, altitude 4259 m.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 510 m average steepness — 47° Length of sections:
   • R1 — 80 m
   • R2 — 60 m

I.

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak — West Sullukol (4100 m) via the West Ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness of the pre-summit tower 55–60°, length of 5th category difficulty section — 15 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 15 pieces.
7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours, from the start of the route to the summit — 5 hours (group — 6 people).
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: Overnight stays below the summit on the ridge, a site for one tent, water is absent. On a slab near the second control tour. Water is absent, snow.
9. Head of the ascent — Khatskevich I.G. — Master of Sports of the USSR, participants: Nikulin M.G. — Master of Sports of the USSR, Kazanovitch V.A. — 1st sports category, Tretyakov V. — 1st sports category, Zaporozhchenko Z.V. — 1st sports category, Gaevoy V.A. — 2nd sports category.

259. Sarykol — Mestia

(the route is combined, by D. Gudkov, category 2A, fig. 18, 29). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Mestia saddle with an initial bivouac on the plateau or in the Adyrsu hut is described in route 247. At the Mestia saddle, turn left and along the snowy plateau (closed crevices) approach the right (southern) slopes of the Western ridge of Sarykol peak, bypassing the lower gendarmes. From the plateau:

• along a gently sloping wide snowy slope,
• then along the talus and easy rocks of the wide couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" stones) ascent to the saddle of the Western ridge to the right and above the Big gendarme. On the saddle, turn right and along the snow-covered easy, местами simple rocks of the long gentle saddle of the Western ridge approach the summit ascent. From here:
• along a gently sloping ice-snow couloir,
• further along simple ruined rocks of the ascent ascend to the summit of Sarykol. From the plateau of the circus, 1.5-2 hours. On the summit of Sarykol, turn right, then a short descent along a simple ridge in the direction of Mestia peak. Further along a simple sharp destroyed rocky ridge approach the I gendarme. Along rocks of medium difficulty of the 40-50-meter wall, ascent (insurance with a rope) to the I gendarme. Along a heavily destroyed, местами sharp simple easy ridge with numerous gendarmes descend to the ridge. From the ridge, along simple rocks, ascent, then along a simple destroyed rocky ridge with several short ice-snow ridges (cornices) ascend to the summit of Mestia.

Climbing Passport

Appendix I

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area: spurs of the main Caucasian ridge from Chiperazau pass to Kitlod pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Termen-bashi — 4050 m via the northern counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3–4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m average steepness — 50° length of sections:

58. Triangle — Khimik

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category 3B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the old right-bank moraine of the Azot glacier is described in route 52. From the moraine, turn right and ascend via scree and easy, broken rocks of the couloir to the saddle of the Western ridge of Triangle peak. From the alpine camp, 2.5-3 hours. On the saddle, turn left and ascend 80-100 m via easy rocks of the Western ridge to below a rock wall. From under the wall, traverse several gendarmes via easy, straightforward rocks and scree on the right side of the Western ridge, and then traverse (with belay) across the ice-snow slope to below a rock tower. Traverse the tower along the boundary between the ice-snow slope and rocks, and then ascend to a col below the summit spire. From the col, ascend via steep, straightforward monolithic rocks of the Western ridge's spire to the summit of Triangle.

• From the right-bank moraine: 3-4 hours
• From Ullutau alpine camp: 6-7 hours From Triangle summit, descend via easy rocks of the Eastern ridge to a saddle. Then, traverse along the ice-snow slope on the left side of the wide, gendarme-studded ridge of the long saddle to below a large gendarme, Rock. Traverse the gendarme to the right (with belay), ascending behind it to the ridge, and then follow the straightforward ridge, passing low gendarmes head-on, to below the Trapezium gendarme. Ascend the Trapezium via steep, moderately difficult rocks (with piton belay) of the ridge. From Trapezium, descend via moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to a saddle, and then traverse along the saddle, passing the Small gendarme head-on (with belay), to below the summit tower of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From here, ascend via steep slabs and moderately difficult rocks of the Western ridge (with piton belay) to the summit of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From Triangle, 4-5 hours.

96. Tyutyu Eastern peak via the North-Eastern wall (combined route by Ya. Paramuda, category 5A, fig. 5, 10). The path from Tyrnauz (group of 4-5 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyu glacier is described in route 92. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and approach the lowest rocks of the North-Eastern wall of Tyutyu Eastern peak. Traverse a steep snowy slope to the right to bypass the base of the counterfort, and without entering a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche and rockfall hazard), ascend to the rocks of the North-Eastern wall. Ascend via severely damaged, easy to moderately difficult rocks of the North-Eastern wall with three 35-40-meter steep sections up to a platform below a gendarme. Traverse the gendarme for 40 meters along steep, smooth slabs on the left side. Continue 80 meters up via damaged, moderately difficult, and occasionally challenging rocks, followed by a 40-meter ice-snow slope to reach a horizontal snowy ridge. Set up a bivouac on the ridge. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Ascend 70-80 meters up a sharp ice-snow ridge (cornice) to below the rocky ascent of the North-Eastern wall. Initially, climb difficult, smooth, steep rocks of a 35-40-meter wall (the key section of the route), then ascend 40 meters up-left towards the Peri gendarmes. From the Peri gendarmes, climb 300-350 meters straight up via icy, steep rocks of above-average and average difficulty to a platform at the base of the North-Eastern ridge. From the platform, ascend via easy to moderately difficult, snowy (cornices) 400-450-meter rocky ridge to the summit of Tyutyu Eastern peak. The journey from the bivouac on the snowy ridge takes 8-10 hours.

DESCRIPTION Category III, 56. FIRST ASCENTS OF TYUTYU-VASHI VIA THE NORTH FACE On August 8, 1949, the Lokomotiv team consisting of B. Garf (team leader), G. Vedenikov, V. Sher, A. Starostin, and A. Deikin (reserve) set off by car from the Lokomotiv camp to Adyl-Su for an alpine survey of the Tyutyu-Su gorge. The route commission had approved routes on any of the north faces in this gorge: Jailyk, Tyutyu-Bashi, or Sulukol. The choice was to be made on site after preliminary reconnaissance. The Tyutyu-Su River, which flows into the Baksan from the right, 3 km above the Tyrny-Auz settlement, runs through a picturesque and little-explored gorge. Paradoxically, despite the proximity to the road (a 4-hour walk along a good trail from the Tyrny-Auz settlement), the most interesting and difficult ascents in this area have not been made yet. Twice, Honored Master of Sports A.S. Zuzin visited this gorge, but at that time, he was mainly pursuing tourist-research goals and made only a few ascents via easy routes. Thus, the Lokomotiv team had a wide field of activity. The car took us to the last bridge over the Baksan before Tyrny-Auz. Here, we loaded all the expedition gear onto donkeys and set off first upstream along the Baksan (on the right bank) along a dirt road and then, crossing the Tyutyu-Su via a bridge, turned upstream along the deep canyon, following a trail laid along the left bank of the river. After 3 km, we were disappointed:

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Central Caucasus, Tютю Су gorge
3. Mt. Тютю Glavnaya via North Ridge, 4460 m
4. Category 6B (approximate), route by I. Slesov, third ascent
5. Height difference — 1310 m, length — 1675 m. Average steepness of the upper wall section — 77°. Average steepness of the lower section — 65°. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 670 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 540 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Type | Quantity | | :--------- | :--------- |

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder Category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration.

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Dzaparidze and G. Niguriiani ascended to the Main peak from the Lekzyr glacier off the Mestia pass via a Category 3B route, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass via a Category 2B route. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were made, Category 4B:

• 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east,
• 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946 — a first ascent via the "board" to the Western peak with a subsequent traverse of the massif to the east, Category 5A — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov.

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2021 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973, cat. 5A The route was climbed by the team of the Federation of Alpinism of St. Petersburg St. Petersburg 2021

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from the Gumači peak to the Kitlod pass. Section No. 2.4.1 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Tyutyu West peak (4233 m), via the S wall, I. Khatskevich, 1973.
3. Route character – combined.